Hi guys,
I got this laptop with no power issue. What happens is when you plug it in, 20V stays on DC jack, but B+ gets power only for very short period of time and starts dropping. What I found out is if you isolate +5VALW by desoldering output jumpers voltage doesn't drop anymore, it stays around 12.5V on B+. Resistance on +5VALW coil was high, few hundreds of kiloohms on both sides of coil.
I found short on PQB7, PQB8 and PQB10 between G1/S1 which was actually short on battery charger PUB1, and one of the double mosfets was shorted too so I replaced both of them. Unfortunately everything was same. Now there is no more short but nothing actually changed.
Now funny part, I decided to change EC too because 3.3V regulator (PUS801) was only IC that was getting hot (around 35C), and EC was getting a bit hot, but just a bit. Now when I changed EC I lost voltage both +3VALW and +5VALW and PUS801 isn't getting hot at all. Voltage on B+ is constant again around 12.5V but that's probably because I miss 5VALW which was making issues at 1st place.
Now my questions are:
1. Is it possible that new EC was shipped faulty? (ENE KB9542GF) - very rare EC, only located on this exact model, that's why I'm bit suspicious. Markings are bit different shape than original.
2. I guess it doesn't have to be programmed for basic power functions or I'm wrong?
3. What voltages and signals does EC need to have to send 3V_EN and 5V_EN signals? Where should I look at?
Thank you in advance for any suggestion or idea!
I got this laptop with no power issue. What happens is when you plug it in, 20V stays on DC jack, but B+ gets power only for very short period of time and starts dropping. What I found out is if you isolate +5VALW by desoldering output jumpers voltage doesn't drop anymore, it stays around 12.5V on B+. Resistance on +5VALW coil was high, few hundreds of kiloohms on both sides of coil.
I found short on PQB7, PQB8 and PQB10 between G1/S1 which was actually short on battery charger PUB1, and one of the double mosfets was shorted too so I replaced both of them. Unfortunately everything was same. Now there is no more short but nothing actually changed.
Now funny part, I decided to change EC too because 3.3V regulator (PUS801) was only IC that was getting hot (around 35C), and EC was getting a bit hot, but just a bit. Now when I changed EC I lost voltage both +3VALW and +5VALW and PUS801 isn't getting hot at all. Voltage on B+ is constant again around 12.5V but that's probably because I miss 5VALW which was making issues at 1st place.
Now my questions are:
1. Is it possible that new EC was shipped faulty? (ENE KB9542GF) - very rare EC, only located on this exact model, that's why I'm bit suspicious. Markings are bit different shape than original.
2. I guess it doesn't have to be programmed for basic power functions or I'm wrong?
3. What voltages and signals does EC need to have to send 3V_EN and 5V_EN signals? Where should I look at?
Thank you in advance for any suggestion or idea!
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