Bowflex nautilus firmware woes

[CuriousJohn]

You are doing great! To convert a hex dump to bin that is easily accomplished in Linux.

You mind uploading the dump? I'd like to see it.

Please report back any interesting findings if you can thanks.

Bowflex Max M7 firmware

https://archive.org/details/bowflex-max-m-7-firmware

[CuriousJohn]

Exciting times today lol, have now observed slight changes on the LCD screen at power up self test but only slight in the top large 7 segment display portion, i like that it encourages the idea the LCD chip driver is naff, or maybe it is zebra woes lol

[CuriousJohn]

Ok folks i know your over there in the corner with your popcorn trying not to snigger openly lol but you know when you start something like this and reasonably think; i'll just ignore that BLE112-A module because if its broken (~it probably is having been on the same supply bus as the PIC32MX) i dont need blue tooth anyway and can just remove it...

Then you start looking at shift registers and there buffers to see why they are not driving the quad 7 segment led and all the other tri state leds on the board and you trace the data bus that goes smack bang into the BLE112-A and never having encountered this before you pull that data sheet and it dawns on you that your dealing with yet another system on a chip with its 8051 processor, 128Kb flash and all the rest of it and then understand the PIC32MX is but one of 3 MC on this infernal max trainer console board and will likely require not only replacement but flashing haha with an expensive CC debugger you dont currently own? The only good news being you do have access to a working console unit to extract a binary or hex from....

Meh, and oh joy.. 🍿

And all of that after sourcing and ordering some rare ish LCD driver chips. Cost of new BLE112A + CC debugger = ⚠

EDIT

Cheap CC debuggers on fleebay, phew.... think ill start that after i finish this box. 🍿

[sam_sam_sam]

Ok folks i know your over there in the corner with your popcorn trying not to snigger openly lol but you know when you start something like this and reasonably think;

Meh, and oh joy.. 🍿

And all of that after sourcing and ordering some rare ish LCD driver chips. Cost of new BLE112A + CC debugger = ⚠

EDIT

Cheap CC debuggers on fleebay, phew.... think ill start that after i finish this box. 🍿

I do not envy you at all but I have to ask you did bite off more than you can chew because if I were doing this repair I would have just sold it as is now if it that you are taking it because it is challenging undertaking then I can completely understand this process because I have done this myself before but it is not fun while doing this undertaking but if somehow you manage to get it completely working correctly then you are going eventually enjoy the outcome

[CuriousJohn]

I do not envy you at all but I have to ask you did bite off more than you can chew because if I were doing this repair I would have just sold it as is now if it that you are taking it because it is challenging undertaking then I can completely understand this process because I have done this myself before but it is not fun while doing this undertaking but if somehow you manage to get it completely working correctly then you are going eventually enjoy the outcome

Hi, yeah your right im doing it for the challenge and learning being semi retired its a good time filler by the time im done with this i will have produced a half decent service manual or a bonfire lol and if successful every day i do some cardio on it i'm gunna screem i fixed you b1tch at the end of the workout lol.

This little console board has loads to teach with three different voltage supplies on it and three separate port headers, two for the PIC32 (ICSP & JTAG) and one for the BLE112 debug all of which is new to me. I was gutted when i found out about the complexity of the BLE112 lol, Flashing the PIC32 is a doddle now i moved to using MPLABX PDE rather than IDE which is way ott as an introduction to this lol.

The BLE112 seems to provide 5 x 8 bit shift registers with serial data and shift register clock all daisy chained but i dont know if those buses also going to the PIC32, there is also storage register clock i think does go to PIC32 only tbd today along with if badly soldered PIC32 causing both these shift register buses to be sitting at 3v or if that could be more likely the BLE112 shorting internally ( i think more likely lol but i didnt do well soldering the PIC32 in on a first time effort sort of thing) or even the shift registers damaged doing it as they also get VCC from the voltage regulator that popped its clogs dealing with 19v human error thing....

Is the PIC32MX running? Not sure may well require functioning BLE112 to know. Is the BLE112 running, probably not its been exposed to 19v and is 3.6v max. Is the LCD chip running, it does its power on self test which demonstrates some segments not getting driven and they do change when power cycling but never shows data (from PIC32). I need to see if debug comms can be established with BLE112 and go from there among the other bits lol looking to rip BLE112 FW and replace the module, was going to remove and forget but nope, not that simple lol.

I hope to avoid asking the mods to move this thread to the failed and pointless repairs section really. Its possibly a matter of self respect to i shall continue to beat this dead horse...

[CuriousJohn]

Excitement of delivery of CC debugger turned to despair in quick measure today as it would not "go green" with this BLE112 which confirms its U/S after receiving 19v lol. The despair came on when i connected the cc debugger onto the header port of a working unit and got the green light instantly and was then thrown to into the dirt by Bowflex locking the debug interface, no info no hex dump GAME OVER

Any magicians out there know how to proceed? Bowflex dont supply Firmware anymore, i'm not even sure the company exists last i heard they sold up to Johnson health tec who make gym grade kit under Horizon brand apparently. Anyway its all obsolete isnt it, maybe a nice email to.... naaa defeat

[CuriousJohn]

Here's a photo of the broken BLE112 i need firmware for, i took its cover of just now to scream at it and see if there really was anything that could be done but nope it has its own voltage regulator inside the chip.

[CuriousJohn]

I was looking through an android app that connects to Bowflex Max M7 via bluetooth with it connected to a working machine and some useful info presented itself confirming there are two firmware's on this machine and have successfully extracted the Hex dump of the MCU PIC32MX however the firmware of the BLE112-A module remains elusive.

Here is the dump of the MCU firmware:

https://archive.org/details/bowflex-max-m-7-firmware

The BLE112-A module contains a TI CC2540 chip with 128Kb of flash memory but its debug interface was locked when it was written so i dont at present have any way to extract it and Nautilus/Bowflex/Johnson health tec dont seem to be able to help so it really is GAME OVER unless anybody here knows of a way to dump the flash memory out of this thing i am going to investigate over the air ways via blueooth but its more learning and probably futile but as ever i live to find out.

[CuriousJohn]

So since I last posted havent done much with this other than discover StickOS! A complete operating system with basic programming functions that runs on PIC32MX among others and it opens up the possibility of writing new firmware to restore basic functionality of this machine, i am very excited about it and just had to come and tell you all lol...

https://rtestardi.github.io/StickOS/index.htm


At the moment i have flashed StickOS to the MCU and removed the broken BLE-112 module and also removed the RTC chip as needed the pins that the RTC was using on the PIC32 for UART FTDI by USB sadly unable to connect as of yet as believe need to downgrade the 16Mhz crystal to an 8Mhz as per current StickOS specs. Pretty excited though will update if i get connected and start being able to debug this thing in real time and write the firmware of course!

[babushkin]

Wanted to check and see if there was any luck in troubleshooting this brick as I am also stuck if a dud unit - and bowflex wont give out any schematics due to safety and warranty.... typical corporate response. I made a reddit( https://www.reddit.com/r/Bowflex/com...rd_issue_help/ ) post which has led me here.

[CuriousJohn]

Hi Babushkin, I feel your woes.

Quit working 3 months in(A while ago now so no warranty). Trying to troubleshoot the no power issue. When plugged in the display has a faint glow and that it - no noise or sound or other lights. I have confirmed that 9V DC goes all the way up to the board using replacement Bowflex wall adapter. No connections are loose. The magnetic sensor down below works as it has continuity when magnets on the wheel/fan pass it by. Unsure on the servo but then it should not prevent screen from functioning... but the wires and connections look fine.

Now on to the board... Again no obvious signs of damage or loose connections. I have fully removed it and the LEDs on the speedomoeter backlight glow dimly when plugged in and thats it. No damage seen on that side of the board. I have also tried powering it with various combinations of connectors being unplugged. There is power in the board as I can power USB fan by pluggining it into USB port on it. Its as if it refused to boot up.

I simply cannot get it to behave in any other way than it dimply glowing. Obviously no diagrams online and ones I found in a manual is too basic to troubleshoot components on the board. AM I SOL or is there some other resources I can try? I do see some pins on sides of the board for bluetooth etc... is there way to flash or troubleshoot the board with PC via the USB port?

Is this thing a giant pile of trash now? Seems very shitty of bowflex to sell such lemons with no recourse.

I copied here your post from reddit to keep things straight forward. The bad news is if the BLE module is cooked then its game over for the console, see my recent posts above but the good news is its possible to convert the machine to restore for use manually to change resistance using a grip shift style gear changer and even add a generic exercise bike computer for RPM, time, calories, pulse and distance lol. Obv not as accurate as the console will report but gives an idea.

I suspect that your problem may lie with the LCD driver chip U6 PT6578LQ or the LCD panel itself assuming you have at least 2.85v out of U18 and 8v out of U16 both needed to drive lcd pins on pins 88 and 89 of U6 also check the ground pins of the chip , then a slight chance the Zebra strips need cleaning and re aligning but do you see garbled stuff on the lcd at all? According to the data sheet of U6 PT6578LQ, at power on it does a power on test and reports its status to the MCU controlling it. I suspect there will be no boot up at all if this chip is having problems or the lcd panel is bad but at power on test all segments of the lcd should illuminate for a second. if thats no happening the chip, the panel or the zebra strips should be suspected and maybe 2 of 3 or 3 of 3 but that would be harsh imo.

Also before disturbing zebra strips check the output voltage of U17 it is the main buk converter (DC to DC converter) it takes the 9v in and drops it to 3.25v out and has a current limiter so if you have a short circuit on the board somewhere its going to limit power so is it getting hot? Use the IPA spray method with the board powered on to see what components on the board are getting hot (if anything) the heat will be where any short circuit is.

With ref to the power distribution diagram i posted earlier in this thread, be advised U15 U16, U17 and U20 all have DC9v in from the power supply, any fault on these voltage parts will affect U17 BUK which drives most of the logic on the console board supplying U18 as well which is the PIC32 voltage regulator. I would advice also checking there is 5v DC coming out of U20, this is the regulated 5v dc supply that goes through the server motor pot and is measured by the pic32 to determine resistance level position, if 5v is present on its o/p then its ok but useful to disconnect the servo motor down below in the harness wiring to check it is not a problem if this 5v is short to ground for example by a fault in the servo then your 9v power supply might get maxed out hot and be unable to supply the other regulators and BUK chip but this heat will be present on the console board at the point of failure as well, this fault would be rare imo but good to double check.


I recently got my hands on another M7 with broken console but to my surprise it worked when i got it home and plugged it in but it didnt last long, the next day it was back to garbled screen. I noticed it had stopped going into sleep mode after a few hours and in the morning it was just dead with garbled screen at power on self test. I found that pressing the LCD chip gently with my finger and powering it on dramatically changes the garbled output on the lcd screen, it ranges from nothing at all to full on garbage but havent seen it work since the first hours i had it even after reseating the zebra strips which i dont like doing on repeat and felt it unnecasry given it was working before but hey ho.

I did get some of the LCD driver chips U6 PT6578LQ in the summer but havent yet got around to replacing this one, i may find time over Christmas if I also find the will lol. First up though having cleaned and reseated the zebra strips i will get a microscope gadget out and check all the pins on U6 are soldered right with no shorts and then might try to heat the pins to reflow (taking the lcd panel off first tho so not to damage it with the heat) and finally replace the chip so long as both logic and analogue voltage supplys into it are present (U18 2.85v logic voltage, U16 8v analogue voltage regulator). If i do get carried away before i do anything aggressive like replace chips, U6 is 100 pins and takes me an afternoon to replace lol, i may try the lcd panel from the first broken console in it as it could be a fault there to unless i have two broken lcd panels as well lol, that would be harsh but not impossible.

However you can modify the M7 to make it usable again by adding a grip shift type gear changer to adjust the resistance, the M3 model does this and its the base model but all others where built with the same hardware inside so its fairly simple to do, i 3d printed a bracket to secure it to the console surround and used a motorbike mirror bracket into the 3d printed piece to hold the grip shift in place.

Some videos on modifying a Bowflex M7 for manual use

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0SEocD69poE


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WtLZt88hZRA


Welcome to the joy of Bowlfex ownerhsip. Since the bankruptcy Johnson health tec having taken over but i dont think there is much interest in servicing obsolete models by johnson tec, they just want to sell new models and subscription to JRNY app at $29.99 a month lol. Dear Bowflex, meh. Dear Johnson health Tec, double meh and so much for your sustainability and climate change objectives ayy.

[babushkin]

Thank you for the reply! I have made a short video on what the screen does as part of reddit thread - you can see it in the dark due to what I assume the backlight not working but getting some residual light for tach LEDs - it eventually "boots" to all segments of that LCD being "on". You do see screen flash for half a second when plugged in with the lights on... No amount of fiddling makes it change its behavior.

I see - I did put a clamp on it and it shows to draw only .5-.6 amps from the 9V 1.5A adapter - I have one for 9V 2A which does not do anything different and still draws .6A. I do see 9V all the way up to the board however. I unplugged various connectors as well as the side LCD ones with no luck however LCD still dimly lit with 2 side ones being unplugged which is odd. Not sure if white thing under the glass supposed to move.
I turned it on in the dark room and can see LCD booting up so to speak until it basically illuminates all the diodes making gibberish eventually. Only thing you can see with lights on is LCD flashing initially. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_g09N1_dy5o Watch to end. Troubleshooting service manual did mention they disable dash when app is used (Its not)... I see nothing when is scan for BT devices on my phone.
Also having hard time finding what the little box thats hidden under the 1 screw panel in front of the person if youre using it - it has separate wire running up to the board - inside is a little chip on some adhesive foam and that it...

I also hypothesize that if you have to press down on components then it can be bad solder - id be interested if it would work after baking it in the oven to re-flow - maybe blasting it with heat gun to be more precise - had luck with fixing old cellphones doing that in the past but it always lasted long enough to get the data off them.

I'll poke around there with multi meter as you describe and see... I definitely lack tooling to do any board surgery. I really do like your approach of replacing the parts with generic ones! At least the machine does not end up being scrap or a waste of space so thats another mod I will certainly check out as I wanted to use it, hence my efforts at fixing it.

[CuriousJohn]

interesting video seems to show the lcd power on self test working and the console actually running without backlight or tacho leds' and i see no missing segments on the lcd but the backlight and tacho leds not on is all so that would probably explain the low current draw you measured about 600ma? you got another 500ma or more missing as the leds are not on so thats the thing to look at imo. You also say cant see it using the max trainer app? The M7 doesnt work with JRNY it needs the older app that is no longer on the playstore but can be found in places that have APK's available to download but be careful the app will only run if you allow location services on ya phone!

Try this test, with it all together everything plugged in power it on and shine a torch on the lcd you should see it fine, what can you do with the machine? Can you start and stop programs, change resistance and maybe even enter service mode?

It may ask for date on first start, if it does this every time you start it there super capacitor is bad but that shouldnt cause the backlights and leds to remain off so.... If you can start programs you may see some life from the tacho leds as one side of them is switched by the PIC32, and the other side switched by shift register from BLE. The seven segment display is powered by the shift register direct, if its not running check the supply into shift registers U18 and supply into both PIC32 and BLE module also cathode sinks (switched regulators on cathode of leds).

With reference to the power distribution diagram:

That white thing under the lcd that you describe as loose is the backlight, it does sit loose but shouldn't move about when its all togethor its sort of sandwiched in and it has two plugs on it both do the same thing supplying Dc volts from U17 but one powers the left side and the other the right side of thebacklight, i would imagine U17 is fine as it powers lcd chip as well and many others things and that seems working. When i tested a backlight with a tv repair tool for testing leds both sides lit up fine about 3v drawn on each side and that is what you should find on the output of U17. You could try applying 3v to each side of the back light whilst its disconnected limited to 20ma or similar just to check they both working however that said both sides are supplied from the output of U17 and that supply is always on since the backlight and Tacho led's are switched on and off by cathode sinks that are in fact powered by U15 but controlled partly i think by PIC32 MCU and the BLE module + shift registers its complex, im pretty sure the PIC32 switches the cathode sinks for the backlight, i remember tracing it back cos it was a pig to do lol and i would focus on that issue for now which is either the backlight (unlikely imo) or U15/PIC32 not switching cathode sinks.

So the PIC32 MCU switches the cathode sinks connected to the cathode of the backlights on and off and also some of the tacho leds in the same way, the tacho leds are tri leds and should be on at startup as well as the 7 segment display, so look at the cathode sinks on them (sometimes called switched regulators on the cathode of the leds so an always on power supply into the anodes can be used) and so it gets complex both PIC32 and BLE by the shift registers, control the condition of the tacho lights it gets complex the shift registers also drive the leds on the buttons, i think there is seven leds on that button piece that is separate just below the screen itself, do you have those leds coming on at all?

so i would look at the output of U15 first as the fault is common to both backlight and tacho leds. I hope you have a result your very close, also please be minded i answered this from memory i may have made a mistake though this console is complex it has two MCU's working togethor and i have no idea what it would look like with BLE module working but PIC32 not or partially.

[CuriousJohn]

Also having hard time finding what the little box thats hidden under the 1 screw panel in front of the person if youre using it - it has separate wire running up to the board - inside is a little chip on some adhesive foam and that it...

Thats the wireless heart rate receiver module, not a single max trainer ive opened has that still stuck on always dangling down and not working because its directional and needs to be facing the user on its bracket. Unlikely to be problematic it works or it doesnt.

[CuriousJohn]

I'll poke around there with multi meter as you describe and see... I definitely lack tooling to do any board surgery. I really do like your approach of replacing the parts with generic ones! At least the machine does not end up being scrap or a waste of space so thats another mod I will certainly check out as I wanted to use it, hence my efforts at fixing it.

Be careful "first do no harm" secondary faults are a bother and a hot air gun is a must for these SMD devices but takes some practice, but defo try to keep it out the tip its not hard!

[babushkin]

U17 Seems to be a chip with 4 in and 4 out pins they do read varying voltages from 0V to 10V with median being about 4.8ish V. Backlight connectors read 2.44V each.

Looked at U15 marked with "F5 78" that has one wide pin and 3 small ones reading 4.9V, 0V, 9.15V(closest pin to U17 chip for reference) with wide pin being 0V. I assume 0V is not right when powered on...

No way for me to inject any voltages unfortunately.

0 life out of the machine(Beyond somewhat dimly glowing tach LEDs attached pic I think). Buttons dont light up or function nor it shows up on BT scans and Max Trainer app(Found a copy APK). Just what you see on video. LCD does not react whatsoever to button pushes nor any attempts to put console into service mode.

Kind of raked PIC32 chip pins and most read less than a 1V around .01 to .5V.

I can spray some IPA but on touch(cold in the shop) PIC32 and BT modules seem to get somewhat warmer first few minutes plugged in.

[CuriousJohn]

U17 Seems to be a chip with 4 in and 4 out pins they do read varying voltages from 0V to 10V with median being about 4.8ish V. Backlight connectors read 2.44V each.

Looked at U15 marked with "F5 78" that has one wide pin and 3 small ones reading 4.9V, 0V, 9.15V(closest pin to U17 chip for reference) with wide pin being 0V. I assume 0V is not right when powered on...

No way for me to inject any voltages unfortunately.

0 life out of the machine(Beyond somewhat dimly glowing tach LEDs attached pic I think). Buttons dont light up or function nor it shows up on BT scans and Max Trainer app(Found a copy APK). Just what you see on video. LCD does not react whatsoever to button pushes nor any attempts to put console into service mode.

Kind of raked PIC32 chip pins and most read less than a 1V around .01 to .5V.

I can spray some IPA but on touch(cold in the shop) PIC32 and BT modules seem to get somewhat warmer first few minutes plugged in.

So this is going to be a challenge for you by the sounds of it, but we need to start at the beginning again im afraid as your image above shows nothing useful sorry and the things you are saying demonstrate lack of understanding, again sorry.

Ok so there are many components of all manner of types and nobody not one person knows them all and what the pins or legs do or even what they are in fact, in time we learn especially through repetition and practice but so many letters and numbers if there even visible! So to help out manufacturers provide datasheets to describe what parts do and usually what the pin outs are, these data sheets can be found online and downloaded if you know the part number. Some parts like Surface Mounted Devices are so small only codes can be printed on them so there are places online to look up all these things as well.

IMPORTANT - some parts can be damaged when probing around on them even if the board is powered down so its important to check a components data sheet pin outs before probing to make sure no damage is caused and also be certain your measuring voltages with reference to the correct ground. In our case ground of the power supply coming in from the plug (9v) is pin 9 of J15 (the white arrow on J15 is pin 1), you could do a resistance test between pin 9 of J15 and the smoothing capacitor on output of U18 which is C79, its a squarish brown thing biggest SMD component on right side of U18, its bottom side is to ground its a handy reference point in my experience but be gentle with it repeat probes can rip it off being a smd device. (dont ask me how I know)

Before going further:

Be advised the M7 console will go into sleep mode after 5 minutes of no ip from key presses or taco signal and this also shuts down Blu tooth so all chips will go cool in 5 mins of power on when it goes into sleep mode. Also blu tooth will not connect if the console starts up asking for the date to be entered, it will wait for the date to be entered and then go to sleep in 5 minutes if not. Asking for the date to be entered every startup is a symptom of bad super capacitor which keeps power to the real time clock chip.


So... We should do some half split technique to determine where the fault is and since you have it disassembled already please test the backlight by putting 3v from a small battery into the red wire of both connectors (one at a time is best) whilst the black wire is to battery ground as you might expect. You can use a coin cell 3v battery briefly to touch it just to check they come on or two AA batterys taped togethor in series any small 3v source really the leds will not be to troubled by a quick test like this, no more than 1 seconds on though to be safe, if you do have a resistor like 100 ohm you could get swanky and wire it in series to do it properly for a longer duration test, the resistor will limit the current protecting the led as they blow when they go on a long bender of hard drinking. This test will likely tell you the backlight is fine, there are two leds in it at least and no way do both fail at the same time imo. So this leaves some trouble to find but before going on please confirm... and also...


Here is an image of the first second of power up of the console, this is the power on self test.



https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fet...0&d=1719496872


Do you get the green leds on the button panel coming on if only for a flash of a millisecond? Try a few times with lights off as will see them better in low light conditions.

If not it indicates a problem with maybe the shift register U7 or something associated with it, its an 8 bit register that drives those lights and the cathode sinks of the 7 segment display which you say is also not flashing up at power on self test, a good correlation there for consideration.

I could link a diagram for this bit next, i had to double check it anyway as my previous post was a bit wrong sorry the backlights are switched on from another ic that is connected to the shift register U7 which is why it was useful to test the backlight first as well. But in the end the Shift register U7 receives its data in from the bus that both the BLE module and PIC32 MCU and LCD controller chip talk on. The BLE module is very interesting i think it may be the master in a master slave relationship with the PIC32, both are powerful micro controllers working togethor in some relationship to run this console but who is the boss lol? Answer please its a side quest to this mission for sure!

[CuriousJohn]

Bowflex Max M7 console logic stuff diagram and backlight/led stuff.

LCD backlight is turned on by switching its cathode sink switches Q2+Q3 ip high for on and low for off but this comes from the ip side of a buffer chip U4 and i am yet to find where this actually feeds from I suspect its the PIC32 or something here is not understood. Can a none inverting buffer chip also behave as a sink so its reversed and its o/p state informs its ip state by holding it high? Meh

[CuriousJohn]

Can you repeat this but this time get a torch shining on the lcd panel so we can see if all segments work on its power on self test and also what is displayed on the lcd when it comes back on like it might have booted up. I wouldnt be surprised if its asking for the date to be entered? OR is it just garbage? Cant make it out in this video..

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_g09N1_dy5o


EDIT: I am certain that the LCD is displaying intelligent info once it boots.


Here is a video of the M7 console starting up for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hlQP7JeOCFs

[babushkin]

Nothing to be sorry about I am not really educated in board repair beyond watching Lois Rossman! Im just a curious idiot with a volt meter. I do appreciate you humoring my efforts.

The photo I attached was merely to show that some tachometer LEDs do work albeit are very dim - the panel stays that way with no changes - had it on for 30+min to see maybe it will do something. When shop lights are on, you cant tell there is any power - it certainly does not light up like in your photo... maybe 1/16th of that. No life from green LEDs at all - I did have all ribbon cables hooked up tight.

I have tested backlight with 3V coin battery and both sides light up fine - tested one at a time. One would think having some voltage to there(2.4 currently) would at least allow the backlight to glow... which it isnt without using the 3V battery.

Measured resistance between ground and the cap indicated and get 1ohm. Top side gets 4ohms.

Heres video of it booting takes a second to see anything... Its certainly not as bright regardless of lighting. Looking at the boot requence mine is stuck where inner tachometer LEDs are faintly on. Left it up and running and screen reads same garble. Nothing on 7 segment LED either.

https://youtube.com/shorts/NAdPOw99I...nhZHkRh9sC72K7

Left it on for about 10 min and screen had not changed nor I get any button response. Nothing legible there. It almost as if its not getting the power it needs to boot fully...