HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
Collapse
X
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
Some good news to report. I changed the failed Mosfets on all 3 boards and 2 of the monitors are working perfectly now
The third monitor is turning on but then immediately switches off and restarts as soon as the test image appears. I've got 318v at the main filter cap and i've checked all the other filter caps with an ESR meter and all of those tested good.
Has anyone got any suggestions?
Did you check the transistors for the inverter circuit Q714, 715?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Comment
-
Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
Both transistors are C5707. Testing them in circuit i get:
Black-B + Red-C=410, Red-E=210
Red-B + Black-C=410, Black-E=210
Is that a good transistor or should i remove and test out of circuit?Last edited by techfixit; 02-27-2015, 07:55 PM.Comment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
"Black-B + Red-I=410, Red-E=210
Red-B + Black-I=410, Black-E=210"
I do not understand what the readings are, the transistor has EMITTER, COLLECTOR, and BASE.
Also 410 Ohms, K Ohms, or M Ohms, same for the 210.
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...tml?sort=3&o=2Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
Sorry that was a typo "I" should have been "E" for emitter. The first test was done in diode mode so i presume the figure is voltage drop?
Black-B + Red-C=410, Red-E=210
Red-B + Black-C=410, Black-E=210
Here's what i get testing the resistance
Black-B + Red-C= .468k, Red-E= 3.08k
Red-B + Black-C=.468k Black-E= .148k max initially then slowly decreasesComment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
"Red-B + Black-C=.468k Black-E= .148k" 148 Ohms that does not look right. Since you have the other board you can do comparison reading or take it out and test again off the board. I use Ohm mode to check for resistance reading since bad semiconductor will not act like diode any more (conducts in both direction).
You can also take those two transistors and see if it will still go into shutdown, you just will not have backlights.Last edited by budm; 02-27-2015, 08:12 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
You could swap them with the good pair to be sure.
It happens rarely, but sometimes a part can test OK, but be just bad enough to fail under operation."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
I just tried the pair from the fully working board in the non working board and got the same result as before.. will power on for a second or 2 then restartComment
-
Re: HP-L1506 keeps blowing internal fuse
Did you check\swap the big grey capacitor between the 2SC5707s?
Have you checked the inverter transformers winding resistance, compared to each other and to one of the working boards?
Have you tried swapping the SMPS controller IC601 with one from a working board?"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by DannyxGood day folks......wow this new layout is weird. It's like I woke up one day and I'm no longer on Planet Earth or something
Anyway....got this here power brick from a USB to SATA adapter which keeps blowing the fuse after I almost repaired it. The reason I even bother to fix a power brick (wall wart, whatever) in the first place is because this thing was really convenient to use: I'd just plug it and that's it. It's a dual output supply, for both 12v and 5v, which although I COULD easily obtain with a DC-DC converter from a standard 12v adapter, I thought I should crack open the... -
by TipsLooking for some assistance please.
Trying to repair a PD27AOQ samsung power board.
Initially had the typical problem of cm806 capacitor blown, additionally thermistor NT801s blown.
Replaced the ceramic capacitor, str60252s, bridge rectifier, thermistor and fuse.
Testing it the fuse blows immediately power is turned on.
diodes dm852 and dm853 test as shorted when in the board but fine when removed.
any assistance, guidance would be appreciated. -
by RogerH58Hi all,
I am a newbie and not very experienced so bear with me if i struggle sometimes with technical language - but I'll do my best. I searched "Samsung" and the model number on the forum but didn't find anything I could understand!
I'm not an electronics guy - just picked up stuff over the years through my flight-simming hobby.
I have the above mentioned 46" tv as the monitor for my flight-sim setup. Recently it went "crack" and stopped working. No standdby light and no response. I assumed a fuse had blown and after investigation... -
by corrizeHello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping... -
by Bootleg1Hi all, so i was watching tv acreen went black and no sound. Traced problem to blown tcon fuse. Replaced and it blows replaced again samething. So my tcon fuse keeps blowing. I bought a new board havent installed yet infear its just going to keep blowing the fuse. If i only connect the right side ribbon cable the fuse doesnt blow but as soon as i connect the left cable my tcon fuse instantly blows and no picture. The right side picture works clear as day and left side picture is grey (picture attatched) im hoping its a bad tcon board itself or a cable or anything and not the panel. Thank you for...
- Loading...
- No more items.
Comment