Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

    I've been following the 2 main threads regarding these Hanns-G power supply problems. I was able to revive 1 of 2 monitors successfully, and I have restored the "Blue light" to the second unit, but I still have a "10 seconds to black" problem with this one. I will start with the 24V circuit on the power supply and then move on to the inverter board. I'll also check to make sure I can see the image when I shine a light on the screen after it goes dark. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. I'm very happy I was able to revive the first one again, as I've become quite fond of the 28" as opposed the the 22" I have used previously.

    #2
    Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

    Update. I noticed the video has a bit of jitter before it goes to black, and shining a light on the screen reveals no video. Moving from backlight circuit to the logic board. I think I had to swap the logic board out of this one to the other to make one good one before the other failed again, and I have revived again. I'll be looking for a complete list of capacitors this board uses and swap them all out.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

      Final update: Took out the video/logic board, and swapped out the 2 100-16V caps nearest the voltage regulators. Replaced them with 100-50V, and put it back together. No jitter, and video remained on for 5 minutes+. I think they are good to go, both of them. I couldn't have done it without the knowledge on this forum.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

        Great job! Are these the two caps you replaced?
        http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...NNSG%20HG281D/
        Never stop learning
        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

        Inverter testing using old CFL:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

        TV Factory reset codes listing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

          Yes, those 2 were the culprits. Now replaced with 100 uF 50V caps that I had on hand. It's currently humming away about 3 feet away from me on my daughter's computer, she's thrilled to have such a big monitor, I replaced a 17" 4:3 aspect ratio monitor with it. I'm using the first one I fixed that had additional power supply caps that didn't come in the repair kit fail a couple of weeks after I fixed it the first time, detailed in one of the other H-G threads.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

            Thanks for posting this information...very useful. However, getting the old capacitors out was more difficult than expected. Then I needed to clear the PCB holes from debris and solder. I used a drill bit that was slightly too large. So now two out of the four the capacitor lead holes open to two PCB tracks rather just one.

            Any suggestions as to what I might be able to do to fix my impatience and stupidity? I've already looked into to getting a new logic board, but that doesn't seem easy either.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

              Without a photo it is difficult to advise,BUT it is usually easy to put hard wire jumpers to reconnect broken tracks etc.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                Originally posted by grazie View Post
                Thanks for posting this information...very useful. However, getting the old capacitors out was more difficult than expected. Then I needed to clear the PCB holes from debris and solder. I used a drill bit that was slightly too large. So now two out of the four the capacitor lead holes open to two PCB tracks rather just one.

                Any suggestions as to what I might be able to do to fix my impatience and stupidity? I've already looked into to getting a new logic board, but that doesn't seem easy either.
                Like Rtech said you'll need to solder leads to any connections that the traces lead to.

                Through hole PCB soldering was very frustrating for me at first. The PCB board actually has little metal cylinders that go all the way through the board. And components get stuck going in, and coming out. I saw some guy on YouTube that talked about drilling them. I was thinking that was really bad advice.
                I developed a system for through hole soldering that you might try in the future. To get a 2 lead component out, like a capacitor; just stick the tip of the iron on the solder and pull it out from the other side. You may have to work it back and forth a few times.
                Now, we have a cylinder filled with solder and it might even be overflowing on top. GOOD. This is where I used to be frustrated. And that guy said to drill. NO!
                What you want to do then is put a dab of flux on that solder. Stick your solder braid over the top. And place that hot iron over it and vacuum it out.
                Once the wick starts that suction action; it'll pull all of that solder out and leave a nice clean hole.
                With through hole soldering, too little solder won't start that suctioning action you need to really get a nice clean hole. I'm sure a solder sucker would do the job too. But the wick really does the job for me, if you add a little flux first.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                  One last little tip on through hole soldering. Occasionally you'll get the hole filled with solder that you just can't seem to clear out. First of all trim the leads down to maybe 3/16 to 1/4 inch so you don't have to push long lead through. As long as the other hole is clear......cut the lead of the hole that is filled with solder a little shorter. Then thread the longer one through the hole. Push the smaller lead up against the hole filled with solder. Dab some solder on the tip of the iron and touch it on the other side to the solder filled hole. Then push it through! Forget the guy on youtube that says to drill

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                    Originally posted by Lumberjack777 View Post
                    Occasionally you'll get the hole filled with solder that you just can't seem to clear out.
                    I tried a lot of things and what works best for me is a stainless steel bobbypin. Topcat uses a dental pick as per (other methods below as well)

                    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...45&postcount=7
                    --- begin sig file ---

                    If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

                    We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

                    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

                    --- end sig file ---

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                      I use stainless steel dental pick also, works great.
                      Never stop learning
                      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                      Inverter testing using old CFL:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                      TV Factory reset codes listing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                        Originally posted by retiredcaps View Post
                        I tried a lot of things and what works best for me is a stainless steel bobbypin. Topcat uses a dental pick as per (other methods below as well)

                        https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...45&postcount=7
                        Originally posted by budm View Post
                        I use stainless steel dental pick also, works great.
                        That is a GREAT idea guys. Thanks. *~*~Merry Christmas~*~*

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                          Thanks for all the replies. I'll read them more carefully. In the meantime I've attached a couple of photos. I've done repairs to broken tracks before, but what I'm concerned about is that because the hole is now too big, I may make connection to two tracks when the new capacitors are soldered in.

                          And I've found out that Hanspree EU won't supply spares. All they offer is a repair service. Maybe I'll send them the logic board if I can't make good what I've done.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by grazie; 12-24-2012, 04:24 AM. Reason: Additional Info

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                            This is my repair suggestion for one of the pairs - Problem is that it is a double sided connection -I have to go but will look at the other later - hope you can understand it. Difficulty may be soldering the bridge to that trace that goes right across without soldering it to the negative side.
                            Attached Files
                            Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
                            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                              Thanks for taking the time to suggest this. However, I think soldering wire bridges across the capacitor holes is going to be very tricky. Would small pieces of component leg wire be suitable?

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                                Yes, should be fine - You may need a small drop of epoxy to give a bit extra support.
                                Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
                                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Hanns-G 28" monitor 10 seconds to black issue

                                  Perhaps something like this for the other cap?
                                  Its difficult to tell if you can use both ends of that small ceramic?
                                  If not scrape down to trace and attach
                                  Good luck.
                                  Attached Files
                                  Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
                                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

                                  Comment

                                  Working...
                                  X