Re: Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power
Since your symptoms are worse, and it won't even power on at all now; we could conclude it has something to do with your cap replacement repair.
(1) Make sure the caps were put in the right way according to their polarity.
(2) Look for lifted pads on the solder joints. With that board I remember the manufacturer bent the legs all the way over onto the pads. Unless all the solder is removed, and the legs bent up; it's very easy with that board to pull a pad. I've repaired a few of those AFTER somebody attempted...
Lumberjack777
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 11-30-2017, 05:51 PM
Joined: 12-17-2010
Location: Seattle WA
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Re: Dell 3008wfp faulty power supply
OK. I sent you an email. Thanks. I'm a gambling man
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Re: Dell 3008wfp faulty power supply
OK. You can always put it on eBay for parts. I know a guy that was looking to buy a main board from a broken Dell 3008. (unless it IS the main board problem on this!) heheheh
Actually I might buy it just for parts.
Last edited by Lumberjack777; 06-23-2016, 08:33 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dell 3008wfp faulty power supply
Sorry I came in late on this one. Sometimes when you reassemble the 3008 as you lower the big heat shield back plate you have to tuck your fingers inside and attach the 2 video cables. It's common for one to come a little loose as you attach the 2nd one. I'd go back and make sure those 2 cables are firmly attached.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204B
I'd open it back up and check all the cables, ribbons, and plugs. Chances are, something didn't get plugged back in....Leave a comment:
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Re: Lenovo L2440pwC "2secs to black"
On 2nd thought. Here's what normally happens when you use test bulbs. When you plug the connector from the good bulbs to the test lamp it will still go out after 2 seconds because the bad bulbs are being used on the other wires. When you connect the test bulbs to the connector with the bad bulbs, it should light up and stay lit, because the bad bulbs are out of the circuit. You mean the test bulb lit up 1/3rd and made arcing noises? In that case it might be the inverter.Leave a comment:
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Re: Lenovo L2440pwC "2secs to black"
No, it's not normal. That's why when you plugged the test bulb into the White and Red, you still had 2 seconds to black. The bad bulbs were still in play. Sounds to me like you have either a bad connection, or bad bulb(s) on the Blue and Grey wires. You tested this problem perfectly. You'll need to tear it apart and check out those bulbs and connections on the Blue and Grey wires.Leave a comment:
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Re: Lg e2342t - bn
That's a polymer cap; and it's common for them to look slightly cracked on top. They don't really bulge like an electrolytic capacitor. I have seen them short out before though. You could check for that. That's a newer board, and you might be having troubles with a different component. Maybe the EEPROM. They are getting smaller and smaller and the micro-soldering can be tricky. On those boards I usually just buy a new one from China for about $35 to $40. Unless somebody else has a better reply. I once had the polymer caps shorted on a Dell S series. And I was...Leave a comment:
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Re: Viewsonic N2635w cap. question
What you need to do is to desolder it from the board and see. Sometimes when they are surrounded and pinned in, it's the only way to read the value. When you are putting them back in, make sure they cap goes in the right way, as they have polarity (+ and -)Leave a comment:
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Re: Fixing an I-Inc IF281D (caps) on the super cheap
No scolding, no rap on the knuckles. In fact, I find that very creative and resourceful. Sounds like you got some good caps; from a time before the bad caps hit the market. And your soldering is just fine. Especially since you didn't use any new solder!
The cap leads fit so tight that you don't need a lot of solder. I'm actually impressed that you managed to pull it off your first time! You fixed that on the "super super cheap"
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Re: Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power
I don't have those values. Sorry. I think if you go through the entire thread you'll find a pic somewhere. Or google images.
I make it a habit of replacing 1 or 2 at a time because I don't want to write it all down. And I can't remember more than 1 or 2 at a time. Works for me.Leave a comment:
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Re: Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power
The microfarad value needs to be the same. The voltage can be a little higher. A 100uF 16v cap can be replaced by a 100uF 25v cap. You'll need to replace the 3 I had circled in red for sure. Those 3 always go out. I'd replace all the small ones in the middle of the board just to be safe.
You need to be careful on that board because the manufacturer bent the cap leads all the way over. So when people melt the solder, and pull on the cap, it can take the copper trace, and/or the pad with it. I like to melt the solder and stick...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fixing an I-Inc IF281D (caps) on the super cheap
In a word..... HEAT. Excessive heat by holding it too long at the solder hole could cause problems. Some of the cheaper irons can get way hot. Or not hot enough. When I used to use them, they lasted 4 or 5 times and then the heating filament burned out. So make sure to unplug it immediately after use.
That practice you mentioned sounds like a good idea. Since this is through hole soldering; understand that the wire lead of the cap usually very tight fit in the hole.
If I were repairing...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fixing an I-Inc IF281D (caps) on the super cheap
I believe that I-Inc IF281D is a clone of the Hanns-G HG281D. And there's 2 caps that go out on the main board. That's all you need to replace. (most of the time).
Does this picture look familiar? If so you just need (2) 100uF 16v caps. I'd get them from like DigiKey or just make sure they are quality caps. And a cheap soldering iron. And some leaded solder. Should be able to meet that 10 dollar budget....Leave a comment:
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Re: Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power
Hi Hapollo. You know, I have never had one of the alternate power boards like you and BtB have to repair. It's always been the one I will attach here. But since your board was manufactured around the same time that many manufacturers were using the inferior caps; there's a good chance you have some bad ones. You could replace them all (If you are fairly skilled and have the time). I have an ESR meter so I can test them. In my experience on the other board, it was the smaller caps that tended to dry up. Especially in the middle. It's really...Leave a comment:
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Re: Asus VE278Q BackLight
Oh I see. Duh. So what would he need to fix his flicker issue? Maybe you can help him. Thanks for clearing that up.Leave a comment:
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Re: Asus VE278Q BackLight
I'd make sure to get the board that looks exactly the same. You are right.
But......if I read correctly.....you'll still have that flicker problem. In my experience it is almost always a bad ccfl (lamp) or the inverter. The inverter is a separate board on your model. So it never was the power board to begin with.
You'll need the power board (or fix - check that fuse first)..... then move onto to the flicker issue. That will most likely be a ccfl, or the inverter.Leave a comment:
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Re: Asus VE278Q BackLight
That capacitor is easy enough to replace. I suspect you took out the fuse with it. I think it's the red rectangular component in this last picture.
It depends on how much time and effort you want to put into this repair. And how soon you need this monitor.
I did find 2 of your boards on eBay.
1 is from the USA and more expensive.
2 is from China and cheaper (but it may take a few weeks to get there)
[url]http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=715G...Leave a comment:
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Re: Dell 3008wfp faulty power supply
Ok then, I'll be plan B.
Plan A is the faster, cheaper, and possibly longer lasting way. Good luck!Leave a comment:
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Re: Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power
I'd have to take the monitor apart. I just have the back cover off. Sorry.
If you can, try and trace the 3.3v and 4.8 circuit back and see what components (or caps) are in that circuit. I'm really not an expert in circuits. Maybe an expert like budm or another can help you trace that.
Until then, I'd check for faulty solder connections. Sometimes they will last for a few weeks or a month and then give out if they are faulty.Leave a comment:
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