Well once again I found a solution over here! NewtoThis, thank you my friend, it was my cheap HDMI cable, I connected the old DVI cable instead and all is OK. I bought a cheap HDMI on amazon, something like 3$... The cable that came with the monitor is HDMI/DVI now that I have installed it, no more problems. Selldoor, electrical variation in a house is business as usual, besides that, all my 6 other LCD displays were ok Thanks anyway.
Yeah there is very little shielding in cheap cables so the compressor on a fridge can disrupt the signals. As soon as you mentioned the fridge I knew it was probably that
Well once again I found a solution over here! NewtoThis, thank you my friend, it was my cheap HDMI cable, I connected the old DVI cable instead and all is OK. I bought a cheap HDMI on amazon, something like 3$... The cable that came with the monitor is HDMI/DVI now that I have installed it, no more problems. Selldoor, electrical variation in a house is business as usual, besides that, all my 6 other LCD displays were ok Thanks anyway.
Bad cable? I had a HDMI cable to when the fridge kicked in blanked off..
Also had a TV that used to switch into standby when the Mrs hardbooted her PC... Turned out there was a short on the HDMI cable allowing interference... Figured it was a short as when I touched the HDMI cable I got zapped LOL
Hi friends... Here I am 7 months later with a new problem. It is simple to explain though.
Same old screen, still doing a great job after I've fixed it back in Sep 14.
My screen flickers on any electrical variation in my house. Example: Right now I have a piece of ham cooking on the stove top in the kitchen. It's an electronic stove so whenever it turns ON my screen goes black for 1 second while I am typing!
If the fridge starts its compressor, same thing... Screen goes black for 1 second. Also after a good while in sleep mode (2-3hours), I have to crash restart the PC.
The next part that could possibly give out would be the power supply.
But your's is different from the ones I know to go bad. It might just last.
My Grandpa used to say .... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
Success! I changed the 2 caps you've told me and I have a perfectly working monitor! This is just amazing! Now what is the next part that will let me down? Anyway I would be back Thanks so much again for the help LUMBERJACK777 !!!!!!
OK. On through hole soldering you have solder on the bottom and inside of the metal tube. So when desoldering you have to get the solder on bottom and inside the tube, to have a clear hole. Some guys use a dental pick to clear the hole.
What I do is add a little solder to the solder joint. And to the tip of the iron. That creates good heat transfer to be able to pull out the leads of the old cap. Back and forth (between joints) until you wiggle the old cap out.
Now you might have a hole that is filled with solder. I will add solder to make it mound a little. Now place a fresh piece of solder wick over the mound. Make sure the iron is hot (40W or more). Add a little solder to the iron tip and press down on the wick. If you heat it all in one motion, it will start a vacuuming action that sucks the melted solder right out of the hole.
It's kind of funny that you actually need to add solder; in order to remove solder. But that's what causes the strong heat transfer that you need to melt all of the solder.
I will check if it's the same you posted, if so, I hope I have the caps if so, i will change them anyway I will come back here with details and pics.
No I am not good at soldering, I just suck at it, same thing for plumbing soldering ahaha always a hard time, even with the grease but anyhow I will have this monitor back on the track because I love it.
I need help please. I have a IF281D i-INC monitor.
The screen over the time has been taking longer and longer to open. It now takes 10 minutes and I have to keep open 24 hours a day.
Also I am getting display errors, sort of blury zones where there are edges.
I am attaching a picture of my power supply board. I already ordered the capacitors but before changing them I was wondering if I was going to waste my time.
The thing wrapped in yellow plastic doesn't seem to right, it's not wrapped up correctly could it be the problem?
I believe that model is very similar to the Hanns-G HG281D. May be a clone even. If so, it sounds more like the main board. You might be "wasting time" by changing capacitors on the power board. Especially if that is a kit with inferior capacitors.
Does your main board look like the one I have attached? If so you need to replace the 2 caps I circled in red.
Also, are you skilled at soldering? Those 2 caps are through hole and can be a little more difficult to replace. Just let us know the answers to my 2 questions, and we can guide you in the right direction.
I need help please. I have a IF281D i-INC monitor.
The screen over the time has been taking longer and longer to open. It now takes 10 minutes and I have to keep open 24 hours a day.
Also I am getting display errors, sort of blury zones where there are edges.
I am attaching a picture of my power supply board. I already ordered the capacitors but before changing them I was wondering if I was going to waste my time.
The thing wrapped in yellow plastic doesn't seem to right, it's not wrapped up correctly could it be the problem?
I wanted to say thank you because I've been looking for this list of capacitors all over the place. It seems to be a secret for the sellers. So in order for google to find it: I will write this: LIST OF CAPACITORS FOR I-INC IF281D REV2 REV 2
I also have a Hanns G HG281DJ with a FSP217-4F02 board which does not work.
The fault definitely is within the power supply, because with another PS, the monitor works.
I got the monitor with a burnt spot an the board:
- The fuse had jumped
- one of the FQPF 9N50C MOSFETs was cracked
- some circuits on the board were burnt
- some SMD resistors were defective (they read infinite ohms)
I fixed all I was able to recognize as defective and completely recapped the board.
The monitor still does not work. Now it manages to switch on the blue LED, but instantly the LED starts blinking; the screen stays black, and I do not think there is a backlight.
@ muc17: This is a glass passivated diode or "Glass passivated junction plastic rectifier". The diode in my board is still okay (at least it looks like it is) and it reads PG5408 pec8449. If you look it up in google you will find a datasheet (Panjit PG540x). I do not know but maybe a normal diode 1N5408 might be a replacement. I can't find any online shop selling the PG5408.
I've got a Hanns.G HG281DJ with FSP217 4F02 power board. There was a beep and strange smell and after a while an explosion. I removed the power board and found the reason. I think the number next to the burst component is D8. My question is, is it worth it to repair it? What kind of component is it? I think the cable next to it is damaged, too, I'm attaching a snapshot.
With it all connected up but before you switch it on I want you to get a hair dryer ( or hot air gun used very carefully) and gently heat the four caps in the bottom right corner of pic 18 They are c 30- c32 and another one further to the right near the BIG cap. When you have warmed them for a minute or two try pressing the power on switch.
Hello. My display has been having a display problem for a few weeks now.
It stays "ON" all the time, but, "sleeps" on the computers schedule. Just after "waking up" whatever is on the screen starts to "shimmer" is all I can think of to describe it.
After about ten seconds, this effect goes away. This time, the effect was way worse, so I tried to power off the monitor in an effort to "reset" it. Just grasping at straws I guess.
Now, it appears "dead". No signs of life at all. No lights, no power, nothing.
With it all connected up but before you switch it on I want you to get a hair dryer ( or hot air gun used very carefully) and gently heat the four caps in the bottom right corner of pic 18 They are c 30- c32 and another one further to the right near the BIG cap. When you have warmed them for a minute or two try pressing the power on switch.
i'm having similar issue with my iF281D, the power light comes on (blue) like normal, but no image/black screen. if i hold a flash light to the screen i see nothing still, sometimes i'm able to leave monitor on for a few hours, and then turn it off then back on quick, and will start working again, for a little while... i'm just not sure if it's the caps on the power supply, the input board or the backlight inverter... need to know which kit to order so i can replace the caps. any help would be appreciated. i've taken the monitor apart already and see no caps that looks bulged or anything to determine which one is causing the issue.
Leave a comment: