That can work, but I prefer using the "dumb" fans as some of those more expensive fans have control circuits in them which do not like dropped voltage. Also the LEDs might affect the current calculation.
You're not going to see the fan most of the time so looks don't really matter, or do they?
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I ended up buying this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230995941906...84.m1497.l2649
It's a bit expensive, but hopefully it will work and I don't have to buy another one.
I don't want LEDs in them, it will be under the TV and it would bother me.
If it will work out, then I will buy another one for the H/K because that one is in a small cabinet. It doesn't get that hot as the Onkyo though.
Is it ok to continue in this solved thread or should I post in my own. Similar issue so I will try. Hi I'm trying to simplify from Outlaw audio and carver amps to a HK AVR 1700. AVR 1700 powers on great and turns on out of standby fine and all buttons function correctly. Factory reset done on it and have tested all inputs with no sound output.
On the power supply I am not getting the +45/-45v that powers the output board.
I feel comfortable with a meter and am not asking anyone to teach me anything so please just help me figure out what to check and if I don't know how I will learn on my own.
I have checked voltage on the IC's because that seemed to be the issue with the last guy. With receiver on - not in standby
Thank you for replying. I bought this 2nd hand from a user who said it needed a software update. In order to update software, I had to use the OSD but, I couldn't bring it up. It powers on, the standby power works, the display works i.e., as I push different features, the display switches to each feature but, there's no sound. I hooked up an IPOD and 2 speakers but no output. I haven't tried a CD players. I hooked the output HDMI to a TV and hit the OSD on the remote but, no OSD. The receivers recognizes all commands but the OSD.
In previous threads, I've noticed you recommend starting at the power supply and verifying power and then working out to the transistors. I have a digital multi meter and soldering equipment.
For past projects, I've read the internet blogs, looked for similar problems and replaced parts with success. I've noticed from your blogs, there is no similarity between posts i.e., a had cap, a bad transistor, etc. For this problem, I'll need to track it down. Please help me get started. Thanks
I've tested power from the power supply to the HDMI board & it is getting assorted voltages i.e., 0, 2.8, 3.3, 5 & 12. I then checked corner pins on the main IC's and got voltages of 0 or 3.3. All seem perfectly normal.
I could next remove the HDMI board and check diodes or, I can move on to the main board or, pull the front display board and continue to verify voltages.
I hesitate to check the display board because it's working. I'm just not getting audio.
I want to hook up speakers while working on it just for sanity. When it starts up, it defaults to FM. Neither FM nor my IPOD had audio. I didn't try a CD player but, assume I won't get audio.
I also couldn't get the OSD to display on my TV. I assume it isn't getting enough power to drive it.
I'm looking for help. I presume the first step is to verify voltages throughout the different boards before moving on to checking smaller components i.e., caps, diodes & resistors & transisters. Is it foreseeable that I'll need to verify the integrity of smaller caps? They are just too small for me to see.
I tested power to the main board and it is getting 45 volts I.e. All is well. I'll next remove the hdmi board to check components. Previous checks indicate all is well on this board. The back side may reveal something.
I checked the main board, HDMI board & the power board this weekend. I think I found the problem by checking for continuity with my multimeter0. A ceramic cap on the power board didn't have continuity. Its a high power cap that has a chalky residue on it. I'll solder in the new cap when it arrives. If you don't hear from me again, it worked,
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