Re: EuropAce EWC 3108 Wine Chiller - Seems like no temperature sensor input
Ok if this is the case look for a optic sensor on the controller board and and check if the sensor is working correctly or not
You might find the optic sensor near the microcontroller ic chip
-
Re: EuropAce EWC 3108 Wine Chiller - Seems like no temperature sensor input
Yes, there is a temperature sensor in each of the compartment. The left display/control PCB for the top and right display/control PCB for the bottom compartment. They both measured ~9K ohm at ~28C.Leave a comment:
-
Re: EuropAce EWC 3108 Wine Chiller - Seems like no temperature sensor input
Is there a temperature sensor on the evaporator coil in either compartment if so where dose it hook up to on which board or dose it have a thermostat with a sensing bulb attached to the evaporator coilLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-05-2020, 06:16 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: EuropAce EWC 3108 Wine Chiller - Seems like no temperature sensor input
I investigated further:
1) There are 2 display/control PCBs, one for each zone. Checked all the power and signal wires connecting to the main PCB, nothing opened or disconnected.
2) There is a "COMP" signal from one of these display/control PCB to the main PCB, presumably is to "turn-on/off" the the compressor.
This might be the reason that NTC1 & NTC2 connector is not use, and temperature control is within the display/control PCB for the respective zone.
If so, the questions would be:
1) What's causing it to chill randomly the top, bottom, or both zones?
2) What's causing it to chill past the set temperature?Attached FilesLeave a comment:
-
-
EuropAce EWC 3108 Wine Chiller - Seems like no temperature sensor input
Received this dual doors dual temperature control wine chiller with some unusual issues:
1) On powered up, all the electronics seemed to be working properly - lights, temperature settings, current temperature, etc, all displayed correctly. But sometimes both zones will get chilled, sometimes upper zone only, and sometimes lower zone only. The temperature displays will show the correct temperature as it chilled (I placed a stand-alone thermometer inside and they compared correctly)
2) However, the chilling does not stop at the set temperature.
3) When both zones are chilling, there is a periodic click-on-click-off sound at every 10-20sec intervals, suspect from the solenoid.
4) If only a single is chilling, there is no such click-on-click-off sound.
I did some googling and found this youtube that appears to be the same controller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zxgGCip8ms
But compared to the PCB i have, it seems to be missing the wires connection for NTC1 & NTC2 connector (presumably the temperature sensors for the respective zones).
Is this the root cause of these inconsistent and unexpected behavior?Attached Files -
-
Got a new victim:
AcuRite 5 in 1 Iris outdoor weather station not updating the temperature / humidity anymore. The original sensor is a SHT21. Also there are identical other sensor manufacturers. I chose the HTU21D to replace the original SHT21. Both have identical specs. I've had two failure modes with these sensors.
A: outside temp stuck at -40?
It's cold here at times in Canada, but not that cold!
B: stuck at some temperature and maybe updating once in 12 hrs or so.
Easy solution is to go to AcuRite website and purchase the sensor. Right?...
-
My wine chiller, TECNO SW-126LCD, is semi-functional - it powers up, can set temperature, and chilled to the set temperature, and cuts off compressor, etc. It however runs very hot.
Upon taken out the PSU and did some basic check - 5V output to LCD panel buttons and display is stable, but there is no 12V output to LED lights, and fans.
Further checks found the secondary side voltage is fluctuating around 8-15V range, but the 7805 regulator seems ok and producing the stable 5V output.
Checking further on the primary side: Incoming line input to bridge... -
What temperature with the heat gun should be use to remove large and small chips from the laptop and mobilephones motherboard? My problem is that the chips not easily remove from the motherboard, example 380°C degrees. I don't know if there is a difference with the devices that the temperature is not stable with them even it shows the right temperature, what should it be? I don't know if I should use higher temperature but the risk of destroying other components?
I have device Sugon 202. I'm used also normal flux and rosin flux.09-12-2023, 12:44 AM -
My vintage wine chiller, Vintec model# S160SGB, mechanical thermostat failed (not cutting off compressor at set temperature anymore).
After some initial research, this is a Dasfoss 25T65 EN 60730-2 part number.
While this part is generally still available in some online portal, it is fairly expensive. There are many digital thermostat available with some simple rewiring, but I am hoping to preserve it with a with a less expensive mechanical equivalent part.
Anyone familiar can recommend some less expensive equivalent?... -
Hello,
I bought from China ISL95880HRTZ (3+1+1 Voltage Regulator with Expanded ICCMAX Register Range Supporting IMVP8 CFL/CNL CPUs) chip, which I think is not the original one, but anyway, I tried to resoldering it with a 380C hot air station. Seems soldering is pretty good, but the laptop doesn't work (it worked before, but still had some problems with power delivery).
Is there any big chance, that they sent me two fake ISL95880HRTZ chips or did I just use too big temperature for desoldering? I will try with another chip, but I can't find any info about the maximum desoldering...
Leave a comment: