Questions About The Numark MixDeck Onboard DC Port

[CapLeaker]

That black tape rubber like thingy also gets my vote for being heat shrink. Maybe measure it out and see if it is connected to your yellow wire being ground. I wonder if the shield is connected to ground or just sits there floating.

If I do connectors like that, I put flux inside of each pin in the connector. Strip the wires nicely back in a manner that the rest of the insulation is a bit too long, or the copper wire a bit too short. A little flux on the wire, stick the wire half ways into the pin hole then use 60/40 quality solder and solder the wire to the pin and shove wire all the way in so the insulation touches the pin.
Most of the time the insulation on the wire shrinks backwards, thus making the copper wire longer. But with this trick it will look like factory.

Key factors are: flux, quality solder, a good iron with a small tip, wires straight cut with a sharp pair of flush cutters, a sharp wire stripper and a small vice.

It’s probably hard to do the first time, but believe me… don’t put solder into the pin hole first without the wire being inside. That makes it so much harder and you wish you would have bought the cable with the plug installed or a new PSU.

[TurcoLoco]

Use flux, add a tiny bit of solder to each solder cup (the "tiny grooves"), tin the tip of each wire, flux again in the solder cups, heat each solder cup, insert wire, done, clean with alcohol
You don't want to melt the plastic of the connector
Pinout is mirrored left-right when looking at the solder side, the drawing you made is looking at the finished plug, measure voltages before fully assembling the plug

Oh yeah, using flux is a no brainer and yes, I was going to tin the cups as well but thank you for the tips!
I am sure it will go smoothly!
Yes, my pinout drawing was looking directly at the pins that connect to the socket.

This video should help, it's a different connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Zah9qHEGs

Or this one, another method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8

Thank you for the videos. The ones I found were for the same connector but very lousy with no details and not showing the soldering part at all.
I love Pace videos and I do remember watching that a while back but clearly I needed a refresher!
How well those videos were made that even after 40+ years they are still some of the best on soldering!

The "elecrrical tape rubber thingy" is called heatshrink tubing, that wire according to the label on the PSU it's connected to the metal shell of the connector
Once you assemble the plug with the metal shell, cover that wire with heatshrink tubing, solder that wire there in a suitable spot, scratch a bit of the metal shell then tin that portion

So, I will cover the part coming out of the insulated cord but just leave enough of it to solder it onto the metal shell (in the photo)?
Would the connector still be able to assemble and close properly with it attach to the shell? I will have to play with its positioning to see if I can get it to work.

Thank you again, sir!

[TurcoLoco]

That black tape rubber like thingy also gets my vote for being heat shrink. Maybe measure it out and see if it is connected to your yellow wire being ground. I wonder if the shield is connected to ground or just sits there floating.

If I do connectors like that, I put flux inside of each pin in the connector. Strip the wires nicely back in a manner that the rest of the insulation is a bit too long, or the copper wire a bit too short. A little flux on the wire, stick the wire half ways into the pin hole then use 60/40 quality solder and solder the wire to the pin and shove wire all the way in so the insulation touches the pin.
Most of the time the insulation on the wire shrinks backwards, thus making the copper wire longer. But with this trick it will look like factory.

Key factors are: flux, quality solder, a good iron with a small tip, wires straight cut with a sharp pair of flush cutters, a sharp wire stripper and a small vice.

It’s probably hard to do the first time, but believe me… don’t put solder into the pin hole first without the wire being inside. That makes it so much harder and you wish you would have bought the cable with the plug installed or a new PSU.

When I cut the connector in half and split the wiring, I couldn't really understand how it was actually connected to anything but I think Michael is right, since the circular piece inside the round housing where the pins are, that is also ground.
So, I am guessing I should be able to solder the bare ground wire to it.
Thanks for the tips as well. Yes, I have been using a tiny vice which works really well in situations like this.

Will update when done.

[CapLeaker]

That screw on the back… use it for the shield,

[stj]

when soldering din connectors - plug them in first.
it holds the contacts so they dont move when they heat the plastic!

[TurcoLoco]

That screw on the back… use it for the shield,

There is actually screw on that metal shell? I didn't even see it!
Yesterday was a busy day plus I was in the Arizona sun for too long yesterday so maybe that is why.
I am feeling a bit more rested today so I will be tackling this a little later on.
Thanks!

when soldering din connectors - plug them in first.
it holds the contacts so they dont move when they heat the plastic!

Plug them in where? In the socket so the connecting pins are stabilized?
Much like the pace video, I was going to use a tiny vice to hold it upside down, put a suitable size solder wire in each cup, then heat each one up as I push in the wire.
Or were you referring to something else?

[stj]

yes, plug them into a socket.

[TurcoLoco]

yes, plug them into a socket.

The light bulb went on a tad late but I figured that is what you meant.
Thanks for the tip! I did use the old socket and the vice which made the painful job a bit easier.

Gotta admit, not one of my best works but this was quite annoyingly difficult due to how short and small the cups were in relation to the wires and also their proximity to one another.
That said, no shorts that I could detect and it is quite strong, I was able to pull it out/in a few times and no issues.

The brown wire which I attached the last, was a major pain and the wire shrunk a bit more than the others for some reason despite using good amount of flux and the same heat setting (660) on the HS-01 iron.
I am thinking about doing a little liquid tape touchup for the exposed brown wire to minimize cables touching each other. They shouldn't but trying to be safe.

Afterwards, I am going to mess with the bare wire next as I start assembling the rest.

[CapLeaker]

The brown wire is buggered up. Don’t leave it like that. It just spells trouble.

[TurcoLoco]

The brown wire is buggered up. Don’t leave it like that. It just spells trouble.

Thanks, I didn't. It wasn't touching anything but I did put liquid tape which was more like gel tape in and around the naked wires and it hardened a bit to seal the deal.
The trouble was the assembly of the connector itself. What a PITA!
I think the thickness of the cord also contributed to all the hassle but I was able to put it all together eventually.
Checked and no shorts. Then connected to outlet and all the voltages were present!
Then checked with both sockets (old and the replacement) both checked out OK for shorts. Then checked for power and still good.
I decided to install the one I bought. I noticed the flat pins were twisted on the original socket so I instead bent the pins on mine in outward.
The socket goes in kinda snug anyhow and with the pins bent, it was quite stable.
The 4 outside corner pins were not connected to anything so I soldered them nice and tight.
I also soldered the front one which was ground (bare wire), it came out nice too.
The middle 4, I carefully used very little yet 3 were still shorted to one another!!
Using heated solder sucker and solder wicks, I was able to clear the short from one of them but two on the left still no good.
I will hit it again tomorrow and if I can't clear the short, then I will have to remove the socket again and clean it all up.
I am NOT going to solder the middle 4 pins again. Just bend them so they touch the pad and that is it.
They are way too close to each other (0.2mm-0.3mm) that makes it very very difficult to not have a solder overrun.

That is where I am at now. Hopefully, tomorrow I will be able to finish it all up to test the device itself.