Yup, but in this case, once I straighten out the middle pin inside the tip of the charger and tried the original DC connector, it seemed to be working as well.
So, the issue was merely the bent pin inside the connector of the original charger.
Interesting. I knew the outside was ground but I thought inside of the barrel was also ground and the middle piece/pin was the positive.
There is no way I would have noticed the bent pin without using reading glasses or a magnifying glass. I can't see such small stuff up-close!


The universal I have actually has identical...

Well, first of, I'd like you thank you for your excellent and detailed instructions (and this is coming from a noob who occasionally had trouble understanding some of the terms even)!
I really do appreciate you sticking with me through this. I learned a lot!

After going thru and re-checking all the values of components you had me check (yes, I made an error it was 7.4K Ohm), I focused on the brown wire/pin on the DC connector.
I knew it was around 6V when I initially checked it multiple times so why was it 0V now? Even the new/replacement part was giving the same value...

Hi,
I have finally received the new DC connector but didn't make a difference. The charger connector seems to go in a bit easier but otherwise exact same result.
The white LED blinks 3 thrice and then nothing.
I also measured the Resistor you mentioned (assuming I located the correct one but based on the boardview, I believe I got the right ones)
R4728 and R4729 appeared to be on the exact opposite sides of the board (please see attached images).

One thing I noticed about the charger check you had me do. I get either 0V or 6V (hard to get a reading for long...

Currently, have only one desktop running Windows 10 Pro. Of all the 64-bit Windows flavors, 10 is hands down my favorite but among the 32-bit ones, Windows XP was my fav.
I am and have always been a Windows user, mainly due to being a gamer.
I have been goofing around with GNU-Linux almost as long as I have with Windows but for the better part of the last 25 years of using Linux, I used different versions on VMs.
I think I only installed on an actual computer, and for a very brief time, 5 different versions; eLinux, Suse, LinuxMint, Kali and Zorin during those 25 years and spent...

I ended up ordering 5 of each end (housings/receptacles) 78271 & 78172 just to justify the shipping cost! =)
I examined the board and removed a few flakes of remaining pin particles and everything looks healthy on the board.
If I can solder it without melting it (SMD components with plastic parts/base make me really nervous), I will be stoked!
I will keep you posted when all parts are received and installed.

Cheers and Happy 4th!...

Double checked the brown wire and same thing. Then power disconnected, auto-ranging mm beep with less than 1KOhm on the display.
I am thinking about replacing the DC port at this point as I suspected it might have been faulty (the charger doesn't sit as firmly as I thought it would.
If the issue persisted after replacing it, then I could continue with the rest of the checks.


Thank you. I didn't even know what the proper name of the part was and searching for molex laptop fan connector brought weird results.
I have taken those fan a handful of times before...

Hi,
I will check the rest of the ones you mentioned in your last 2 posts but I wanted to share the following to see if it was indeed the DC port that was faulty:
AD_ID pin 3 measured 1.44V when the DC port was connected to the motherboard, separated from the board, the brown wire to one of the black ones measured: 2.2V not 18/19V as you mentioned.

As this machined was opened at least once before with cover screws missing, case corners damaged, etc., I could tell this laptop suffered quite a bit.
I also noticed the CPU/Heatsink fan was dangling with some of the wires...

Will that tomorrow as well. Thank you again!...

Thank you for the update/clarification.
I think I have a fairly good understanding of what you asked for so I will get back to you with the request info.

PS. That LED never had any orange light. I am used to seeing that with laptops when they are charging but not this guy.
Only thing it does is, white LED flashes 3-4 times, each time I press the power button. That is it.

Charger is authentic/original charger and I even tried another known good charger and same thing.
AD_ID (3rd pin) showed 7.23 K Ohm whether the charger is plugged or not.

I am sorry, I didn't understand what I was supposed to do with the last 2 images?...

One thing I wanted to ask/add, I have the board out naked, so there is no CPU heatsink or RAM installed.
Would any of these matter for what we are doing?
Thank you again.

Hi,
Sorry for the delay (under the weather).
I actually had already traced the power button and removed that secondary piece that you mentioned.
The rest, I believe I was able to follow your instructions and get all the readings but if something is missing or wrong, please let me know.

+VA = 19.85V

Both PQ1001 & PQ1002 S/D = 19.85V G = 25.65V +VAD
PQ1006 pin 3 = 25.65V BATDIS_G
PR1001 = 19.85V same as right side of all 5 caps +VIN

With adapter connected, when I press the power button, all I see if 3-4 white LED flashes then...