I know, sir. I was referring to each side.
I didn't see a matching chip on the mainboard which puzzled me a bit but now that the board is out, I will investigate further.
I don't think I will need to connect it to the other parts just to check voltage, or, perhaps, even the data.
I am still not 100% what I will be looking for with the scope but I will check around as best as I can.
Thank you again.
TurcoLoco
Senior Member
Last Activity: 09-11-2025, 12:30 AM
Joined: 03-11-2025
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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I was thinking the same thing!
I guess I am gonna be playing "Where is Waldo?" with this mystery 25-pin chip!
lol...Leave a comment:
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Yes, this cap is sitting on the -12V rail so, you are saying it is normal?
Curious, why the others, +12V and +5V both showing 4 M Ohm resistance then?
Seems like I will have to continue with checking the chips on the board tomorrow.
Thanks for the clarification.
One question, the chip in your attachment has 25 pins, which chip is this exactly?
The big one I was looking at has like 40-50 pins on each side, the others have less than 25.
Is it located somewhere else and not the U shaped main board?...Leave a comment:
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OK, the diagram and pins you want me to check was for the 2 big square chips on each end of the U shaped main board but there is NO way I am going to be able to do while the top piece is still attached.
I cannot even see the entire chip yet along be able to access it. I am going to take it apart to check all that.
While I was checking the voltages around the DC connector, I noticed one of the nearby capacitors is showing -12V when I touch the top of it with the MM. I checked and all the others were showing 4+ M Ohms. The bigger capacitor is the one adjacent to the one I removed,...Leave a comment:
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I am feeling much better so I will start with the Voltages.
Not sure how to do the data flow part but for oscilloscope, I have watched a few video but wasn't sure if it had MM like different settings for different purposes.
I will do more training on it and then give it a shot.
Thank you....Leave a comment:
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Thank you so much!
So, should I check this and other chips for the claimed voltages to make sure it matches or just use the scope?
Having never used the oscilloscope, what will I do exactly (what am I looking for)?
Sorry, for being such a pain!...Leave a comment:
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Yeah, even though I don't know anything even when I saw their block diagram, I thought "WTH is this?"
It looked too simple and also limited but hoped maybe it'd make sense to you!
So, this won't help us know what to troubleshoot, huh?
Leave a comment:
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Hi Capleaker,
I got an email from their tech support today. One of the techs was able to get a copy of the block diagrams from an engineer and emailed it to me!
It didn't seem that comprehensive but perhaps this is due to my lack of knowledge/skills.
Let me know what you think!
It has a few pages so it shouldn't be too bad even on an iPad.
TIA.
PS. After 58 posts and 2+ months, I am still getting the image (human) verification!
Is there a mod I can talk to about this annoyance? What is the dang threshold?...Leave a comment:
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One thing I am quite aware of and would like to warn anyone interested in buying any costly items on AliExpress:
Their packing/packaging simply sucks which can result in damaged items, especially the ones that lack good packing from the actual vendor.
Also, with microscope stands and arms, I noticed most of them seem to have a very reasonable to very low item price but the shipping charge is, at least, almost as much as the item itself.
I have seen some with the arm priced around $25-$40 but the shipping is like twice as much.
I don't like that because if there is an issue...Leave a comment:
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The base came with the camera so I have no info on where to get one but you can search on AliExpress.
The one I really liked was the ReLife MS2 Pro but priced well over $100 so I scratched it.
This is an alternative "solid" one I found that is way more reasonably priced:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTGX8PFN...J0I4HFTM&psc=1
Here are couple of others that caught my attention and their prices were very reasonable (just check to make sure they would work with your microscope):
Mechanic: https://www.alie...Leave a comment:
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Hi Capleaker,
Thank you. I will check all the voltages I can think of in hopes of finding something off.
I did (like the idiot I am) splash some solvent to my face a few days ago, luckily I was wearing glasses but my face is pretty awful right now.
I think the chemical burn also got infected so one of my eyes is also a bit swollen. It is getting better but slowly.
I will work on this when I feel a bit more up to it.
What sucks is having both parts still connected to check voltages due to very limited opening, it will be a pain.
Oh well, I will...Leave a comment:
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Yeah, you are right, no such page. Just wiring diagrams, assembly diagram and negative PCB shots (whatever they are for).
I will ask to see if they have it but I am guess if they did, they'd have sent it already.
Shame such a detailed service manual too.
What I meant with a single thing is, it is not likely to be a capacitor or resistor located on the display board as both are having the same exact issue.
How could have a data line crap out, is a mystery to me. This thing is too exotic and the only reason I took on the job was because it seemed like a straightforward...Leave a comment:
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About a year ago I got the same camera (4K for all, USB-C and HDMI & TF card slot) with x0.5 and x0.75.
Prices seemed to have come down a bit!
I thought the desk-mount arm looked a bit flimsy so I opted for the hard metal base.
There are some really strong and stable arms but they cost just as much as the cam.
I do like mine even though I only used it couple of times(when soldering) with the .5x lens attached so I could raise the scope higher.
I typically use magnifying glasses most of the time, doing soldering, etc.Leave a comment:
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Really? I thought it was vert comprehensive with all the explode/wiring diagrams and negative parts view. I just didn't know how to troubleshoot the issue since it is presumably not power related at the displays were getting power.
Supposedly, if not enough power is coming to them, they could also remain blank and I was hoping to test the components from the main chip (or the DC in) all the way down to the displays.
I agree the problem is likely a component on the main board but since I don't have much skills or experience, I didn't know where to begin.
Hmmm, so...Leave a comment:
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I can't read schematics yet, I tried but it is all Greek to me...
Since both displays were working before replacing the socket and now having the same exact issue and that is really the only outstanding issue, I tend to thing a culprit is a component that functions in between the main chip (PIC24HJ256GP610) and the displays.
Based on everything else seemingly working (lighting up), is it fair to rule out the main chip or not?
According to my research there Is there a dedicated display controller (chip) which is actually responsible for displays showing information. Is this...Leave a comment:
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Well, it was very tight but I powered on the unit and my thermal cam and there were only half a dozen spots that even registered, most around 95-100 degrees (F).
With those of them marked in the attached photo; red area with resistors hitting 120 and orange area with caps hitting 106. Is either one considered too hot to be a concern or a short?
Wouldn't a short (other than a related chip/MOSFET) completely kill this device or at least would have more issues than just the displays powering on but not showing anything?
White ribbon cable is what the tech support mention that might...Leave a comment:
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You mean the U shaped board out of the case and by itself just connected to the power?
With both top and bottom pieces still connected, I can only get a 3" opening which would prevent me from using the thermal cam I have.
I am sorry, what were you referring to as output jacks please? I confirmed all the voltage are coming to the board (at the part where socket sits on the U shaped board).
Thank you....Leave a comment:
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Yeah, I know, it could be anything from a simple loose/no connection of a related cable to a burnt chip.
Visually, both the top and the bottom part (on the surface) appear very clean with no signs of any visible marks or anything.
The part I worked on is the bigger piece located at the bottom part of the device. I did nothing with the other 2 smaller boards or the top part other than disconnecting/reconnecting the cables.
Because a few of the cables only allow a few inches of opening it /is/was not really possible to get a clear picture of it with everything connected or check...Leave a comment:
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Good news!
I got it powered on but the screens supposed to display "Numark" but they instead show a blank lit screen.
I double checked all the cables and they are all connected to where they were supposed to (most of them are actually quite obvious anyhow).
So, not sure what the heck is going on.
I found a firmware from their site but it is only applicable if the display is actually showing/active which this is not.
Would getting a schematic for this help?
I'd appreciate any help.
TIA...Leave a comment:
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Thanks, I didn't. It wasn't touching anything but I did put liquid tape which was more like gel tape in and around the naked wires and it hardened a bit to seal the deal.
The trouble was the assembly of the connector itself. What a PITA!
I think the thickness of the cord also contributed to all the hassle but I was able to put it all together eventually.
Checked and no shorts. Then connected to outlet and all the voltages were present!
Then checked with both sockets (old and the replacement) both checked out OK for shorts. Then checked for power and still good.
I...Leave a comment:
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