Questions About The Numark MixDeck Onboard DC Port

[TurcoLoco]

Uh, I didn't think those connection points would be easily accessible from the top but I was able to wiggle the rubber things and got a shot of the top.
Then compared each present power connection to the black Ground in the front as seen in the attached photo.
Only the back (brown) connection had continuity whether it was plugged in or not.
Not sure if that means anything or if the PSU is actually working correctly but the connector or the wire that connects to the deck is faulty?
Thanks.

[TurcoLoco]

I also checked it from the top of the PCB just to make sure it is not a cold solder issue and nope, same exact result.
I believe the brown connection in the back is the second Ground that was in the image at the bottom of the PS so, all checks out.
Because the owner had to twist the power connector in order to get it to work, leads me to believe the connector might have been the problem and not the socket which I will check on the side.
Not sure if my leaked solder fried the connector or if it had already gone bad at that point?
I am thinking about cutting the connector and checking each wire for continuity. That is probably the only way to ascertain whether the cable is good or not.
Anything else I should do?

TIA

[TurcoLoco]

Yup, with the connector cut, all wires have continuity so the culprit was the connector.
I went ahead and ordered the connector Michael linked as well as another socket (just in case the one I got was fried too).
Fingers crossed this will get it working but I will post an update either way.
Thank you both!

[m1ch43lzm]

What's the yellow wire for'? I see 5 wires but the connector only has 4 pins + the metal shell which is connected to the shielding on the cable, and GND
Double check measurements, GND is marked on the board, then you have V1 V2 V3
On closer look, the yellow wire is also connected to GND?
Wiring colors seems to be non standard, as I wouldn't use a yellow wire as GND..., that leads to confusion, or a black wire as a positive voltage
Assuming
red is negative -12V (V3) (double check if the - sign appears on multimeter, with black probe on GND)
black is positive +12V (V2)
brown +5V (V1)
yellow GND
and the other "black" wire (heatshrink?) is the shield/connector shell, also GND

[TurcoLoco]

This switching PS of this type is totally news to me but it does check out with the PCB info:
There was also a bare strand of wire that and yellow wire (way in the back) are both Ground.
Black & Red = 12V
Brown = 5V

(In the original photo by mistake I marked the brown wire which was actually the 5V).

[m1ch43lzm]

Again, double check which one is positive 12v, and negative 12v, no way you have two positive 12v wires...
Maybe the - sign on your multimeter is very small, keep the black probe on yellow wire, the red probe on black wire, then on red wire, one of those should show a - sign to the left of "1" digit
You don't want to mistake those when wiring the new plug, or you'll release the magic smoke on the device...

[CapLeaker]

Find ground on the secondary, then go with the other probe on each of the voltage rails and check for a short. If something is shorted should be a diode.

[TurcoLoco]

Again, double check which one is positive 12v, and negative 12v, no way you have two positive 12v wires...
Maybe the - sign on your multimeter is very small, keep the black probe on yellow wire, the red probe on black wire, then on red wire, one of those should show a - sign to the left of "1" digit
You don't want to mistake those when wiring the new plug, or you'll release the magic smoke on the device...

Hey man, sorry, yes I did notice you mentioned it in an earlier post but I got sidetracked and forgot to check it so thank you for reminding me.
I guess I missed it as the negative sign on my cheapo auto-ranging mm placed it right above the DC indicator for whatever reason. When I doublechecked with my Klein Tools, it was way more noticeable.
So, yes, the red wire with 11.38V is negative. <-- Not quite 12V as both MMs showed about this value. Is this OK?

On that note, what is the purpose of this negative power line?

Hopefully that new connector you shared the link for will be a match and install easily.

Find ground on the secondary, then go with the other probe on each of the voltage rails and check for a short. If something is shorted should be a diode.

I am not so sure if anything is shorted since the PS connector was definitely bad, not sure if anything happened on the board of the device itself.
I will have to get the Ps fixed up first then test the rest. What you wanted me to check, was it for the actual board where I installed the socket or for the power supply?

I am still not certain if the original socket or the one I ordered are in 100% good working condition but when I checked each pin, to the pins inside the female socket, there was continuity.
So, once I get the PS working, I will check each pin facing the board for voltage. All outside pins plus one of the 4 center pins are ground. The other 3 are 12/-12V and the 5V.
If the original socket is still good then I will just install it back and return the other two (I did order another socket just in case).

Thank you both again for your help. I will update once I get the PS rolling...


[rant]Weird and annoying thing about DigiKey is they do not let you cancel or modify your order once it is placed.
I contacted them literally 10 mins after I placed the order and the agent said "sorry due to the order state, I cannot modify your order".
I was looking at the status of my order and it was showing an alert stating due to some issue shipping of my order was delayed.
It was still showing that when I was chatting with the agent yet they claimed they couldn't cancel or modify my order. They told me to return it once I received it.
The package didn't even ship until an hour and 45 minutes later......I didn't like that. [/rant]

[CapLeaker]

I want you to check the power supply voltage rails against gnd. You got 3 voltages and a ground on your PSU. See if one or more are shorted to gnd. Maybe you can identify which voltage rails did get shorted on the other board, it may help. Don’t even try the old socket on the other board, that’s toast.

[TurcoLoco]

I want you to check the power supply voltage rails against gnd. You got 3 voltages and a ground on your PSU. See if one or more are shorted to gnd. Maybe you can identify which voltage rails did get shorted on the other board, it may help.

I did check the voltage for each wire as well as the PCB connection point against the ground wire but not sure what you were asking me.
Could you please elaborate?

TBH, I am not even sure if anything shorted anywhere.

Don’t even try the old socket on the other board, that’s toast.

Yeah, I agree which is why I ordered a new one as well just in case the new one I installed was fried too.
Just not worth to gamble for $2.50.

Thanks.

[CapLeaker]

With the PSU off, put the DMM in diode mode, black lead to the ground wire, then probe the other 3 power wires and see if you have a short

[TurcoLoco]

With the PSU off, put the DMM in diode mode, black lead to the ground wire, then probe the other 3 power wires and see if you have a short

No beeps, it starts fluctuating within seconds from .2xxV all the way up to .4xxV value for all three.
What am I looking for or what would be a short?
Thanks.

[CapLeaker]

If a diode is short, it’s a dead short. Now 0.2v drop is still normal.

So you plug this thing into power mains and you get zilch output, no green LED either?

[TurcoLoco]

If a diode is short, it’s a dead short. Now 0.2v drop is still normal.

So you plug this thing into power mains and you get zilch output, no green LED either?

Since, the LED lights up and am getting all expected voltages, no shortages.
What is the purpose of the negative 12V (11.38V) line? That is not something I have seen before.

[CapLeaker]

Aah! The power supply does work then! You should have +12V, -12V and 5V. Must be something else short or open on the device where you replaced the jack.

[m1ch43lzm]

Aah! The power supply does work then! You should have +12V, -12V and 5V. Must be something else short or open on the device where you replaced the jack.

CapLeaker The power supply does work after cutting the plug..., so the plug on the PSU cable side was faulty, you missed posts 22 and 23 where the PSU plug was cut...
TurcoLoco once the new plug arrives, notice that the pinout on the label is when looking at the pins side, after soldering the new plug, measure the voltages according to the pinout on the label, you don't want this to happen on the device due to an improperly wired plug

[TurcoLoco]

CapLeaker The power supply does work after cutting the plug..., so the plug on the PSU cable side was faulty, you missed posts 22 and 23 where the PSU plug was cut...

I had a feeling he might have missed that part but I liked the diode mode test which I never used before.
Is this test applicable to the power supply because there are diodes somewhere in between each voltage rail?

I have done a little searching and kinda gathered the negative 12V is used by some amplification process in the unit.
Does that sound about right or is there a different purpose?

notice that the pinout on the label is when looking at the pins side, after soldering the new plug, measure the voltages according to the pinout on the label, you don't want this to happen on the device due to an improperly wired plug

So, in dumb-dumb terms, pinout is same as when I am actually looking at the pins?
Yeah, ultimately, I was going to check the voltages according to the diagram then it should be good to go.
I will also check the socket post putting on the board to make sure there are no shorts.

Cheers!
Matt

[CapLeaker]

I guess I missed the post with the cut off connector. Been busy too… carry on!

Using the diode to test for a short in the secondary works on all power supplies that do not have a load resistor to GND on the output,
This trick is really simple. Basically you go after the rectifier diodes. Some are slow, some are fast and others are ultra fast switching diodes. All of them have a certain voltage drop, which is from an ultra fast switching Schottky diode with 0.2V drop to a slow speed normal rectifier with about 0.7V drop. You can always pull the spec sheet from the diode and compare to what you measured up. You measure something like a dead short or open you know what to do next. Instead of cutting off the plug probably it would have been better to desolder that cord from the PSU.