Mechanical Relay Quality

[redwire]

Re: Mechanical Relay Quality

Post #6 says you measured "0.67A up to 1A then back down" and now you're saying 32mA ???

I looked at Heil ICP Tempstar PA5536AKA4/PYPA36GA4 heat pump, from your picture. It looks just like an air conditioner but has a reversing valve to pump heat into the home and there's some optional electric heater package.
Power transformer is 24VAC 40VA. Based on pictures, you can figure out the schematic of the Heil control board 1087562/Honeywell 1084-83-100A, if I'm right about the one in your outdoor unit.
The thermostat inputs are low current going to a PIC MCU. There is no usual 24VAC inductive loads the thermostat relays would be seeing, like contactors etc.
So either your wiring is wrong and you are crowbarring something or this is a massive goosechase due to a cheap crappy Songle relay.

[stj]

Re: Mechanical Relay Quality

32mA hold, but what was the inrush?

[redwire]

Re: Mechanical Relay Quality

Digital inputs to HVAC (furnace, A/C) control boards are typically a 820R-1k 3W resistor load. So 24-30mA AC typ. which is what I expect.
Like to "O" Heat/Cool, and "Y" Compressor (after loss of charge/pressure switch).

The control board already has 3-4 relays to deal with the higher power stuff. One large one for the outdoor fan, smaller ones for compressor contactor CC, reversing valve RV and what they call Defrost Heater W. What's funny is the control board relays are the same cube size as OP's: Goodsky RWH-SS-124DMF-U rated 15A.

There can be another (indoor) fan motor contactor we don't know about, and a timer board for the electric heater option as well. I suspect there's extra loads like these lurking somewhere that are responsible for the relay wear.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: Mechanical Relay Quality

One thing that I always check on these boards are for bad soldering joints I have seen quite a few them with issues at terminals joints and at the relays joints as well and you are better off if the soldering joints looks questionable remove the solder and redo it you are better off in the long run

I have fixed a few them before when they either do not go into defrost or do not want to come out of defrost

Does this unit have a time delay for the fan to go off when the temperature hits the set point if does they quite often fail open which means they do not turn on the fan or the fan never turn off in auto fan control mode

[evilkitty]

Re: Mechanical Relay Quality

Post #6 says you measured "0.67A up to 1A then back down" and now you're saying 32mA ???

I looked at Heil ICP Tempstar PA5536AKA4/PYPA36GA4 heat pump, from your picture. It looks just like an air conditioner but has a reversing valve to pump heat into the home and there's some optional electric heater package.
Power transformer is 24VAC 40VA. Based on pictures, you can figure out the schematic of the Heil control board 1087562/Honeywell 1084-83-100A, if I'm right about the one in your outdoor unit.
The thermostat inputs are low current going to a PIC MCU. There is no usual 24VAC inductive loads the thermostat relays would be seeing, like contactors etc.
So either your wiring is wrong and you are crowbarring something or this is a massive goosechase due to a cheap crappy Songle relay.

i did not use a clamp meter this time, i used a meter that measures the current flowing through the meter with wires

"goosechase due to a cheap crappy Songle relay" is what i have been thinking

the only changes i did on the AC side was moving the wires for the tubes to the relays in the thermostat
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/newrep...eply&p=1105511
I do not think i have a way to measure that

Does this unit have a time delay for the fan to go off when the temperature hits the set point if does they quite often fail open which means they do not turn on the fan or the fan never turn off in auto fan control mode

the fan does have a delay as far as i know, the fan does turn on/off in auto mode

Digital inputs to HVAC (furnace, A/C) control boards are typically a 820R-1k 3W resistor load. So 24-30mA AC typ. which is what I expect.
Like to "O" Heat/Cool, and "Y" Compressor (after loss of charge/pressure switch).

The control board already has 3-4 relays to deal with the higher power stuff. One large one for the outdoor fan, smaller ones for compressor contactor CC, reversing valve RV and what they call Defrost Heater W. What's funny is the control board relays are the same cube size as OP's: Goodsky RWH-SS-124DMF-U rated 15A.

There can be another (indoor) fan motor contactor we don't know about, and a timer board for the electric heater option as well. I suspect there's extra loads like these lurking somewhere that are responsible for the relay wear.

wonder what those relays cost and if i can source them...
as far as i am aware the only fans are in the outdoor unit
the defrost cycle is on a timer cause someone wanted to not pay extra