I'm seeking some electrical help to replace a bad LED on the board from my tv. Pictured below is a zoomed in picture of 2 diodes from the LED strip taken from my tv. I've exhausted all online resources to find a simple replacement, so now I'm moving onto the repair stage. I'm a mechanical engineer, and as such, don't know the proper and tricks to working everything electronic. I've had 2 suggestions come to me on this board. Replace the LED diode or simply smash the diode and bridge the +/- connections. So which is easiest and how to I do it? As you can see, the diodes are really, really small. They're also very thin as the board is sandwiched between the mounting plate and the glass panel in the tv. I understand on how to solder PC boards that have thru holes, but have 0 experience with boards like this that have an aluminum backing that prevents access to the bottom of the board. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
LED Diode repair help
Collapse
X
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
If you have a dremel and a steady hand you could just slice the LED off, leaving enough space to solder another or a few diodes to make up for the lost voltage drop.
If your LED PSU is constant current, you could just bridge the pins on top and just leave a dead spot, this probably is easiest. -
Re: LED Diode repair help
If you have a dremel and a steady hand you could just slice the LED off, leaving enough space to solder another or a few diodes to make up for the lost voltage drop.
If your LED PSU is constant current, you could just bridge the pins on top and just leave a dead spot, this probably is easiest.
So would I just be dropping a line of solder to bridge the pins? I see 4 pins around the diode. Am I bridging them all together, or do I need to trace a +/- post?Comment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
Hi, there's are 2 youtube videos from a badcaps member called ReeceyBurger123 showing how to replace leds, not exactly what you've got but might give you some ideas. btw, I think if you short the led out, the psu will detect more current being drawn than normal...and might cut out to protect the circuit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxwdC7V5Ue0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uBhca7zyXIComment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
Thanks for the replies folks! The strip is removable. I figured mine might be similar to Burgers way of removing them, however, it looks like the diodes have leads on them that were stuck through holes on the top of the board, and soldered under the board before the heatsink was installed. The heat sink is the aluminum strip I'm referring to in the original post. I used the heat gun method and had the board pretty toasty and still couldn't get the sucker off.Comment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
This is what I have when I rip the plastic off. 4 posts appear to be visible, which is quite different than the videos posted on youtube. These posts also don't appear to be soldered on, rather passed through the board and connected under the board between the heat sink board. Thoughts on how to get this off and bridge the connections?Comment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
interesting, the 4 pins are all tied to the metal part? I've never worked with that kind of diode before, thought that usually 4 pins = 2 anodes, 2 cathodes, and if you want to bridge it, just connect anode to cathode. You can try a working diode to see which are the cathodes and anodes. Now I haven't seen where all four pins are cathodes or anodes, and the heatsink is the anode/cathode depending on the pins... I suppose this is possible. Then maybe the job's done already with the pins shorted to the heatsink?Comment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
It looks like it is 2-LED in parallel in one package, the big pad is the Anode where the die is attached to to dissipate the heat to the strip.
What is the Vf reading of the good LED?
Can you remove those two terminals to expose the solder pad?
This is how I removed the bad LEDs:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=255Last edited by budm; 06-23-2016, 08:57 AM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: LED Diode repair help
These have traces, the aluminum is just a heat sink. The traces are visible in the last picture, one on top and two on the bottom. You can trace these from the board input. The best way to remove these LEDs are with a hot air station, I heat up the underside of the board then heat the LED side of the board while holding the LED with tweezers.
These LEDs will be in series, so right now the strip will not work. You need to complete those traces to complete the circuit.
Source: I have fixed well over a dozen bad panels in several brands of TVs.Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?by Tynan DillI was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming...7 Photos -
by m1ch43lzmHi, this is my personal laptop, which the original board (lets call it Board A) blew up PU8700 (TPS51486), making a hole on the board, i had left the laptop at my desk one day with the battery fully charged and didn't touch it for a week, but when i tried to turn it on it didn't
Thought the battery was dead, so i plugged in the charger then tried to power on, the power LED blinked once, charged LED still orange, unplugged the charger, plugged in again and I noticed the "magic smoke" smell, so i unplugged the charger, removed the back cover and saw the blown IC (the "magic... -
This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a board like this, I know I could just buy a new board but I'm curious to figure out how this works. I've been testing different components in the evenings this week and I think the problem is with the IC failing to start up for some reason. When the board is plugged in there is no standby voltage.
Then today it randomly sprung to life like a zombie but shortly died thereafter. I have no idea why it would have done that and its the first time I've seen it running. I discharged capacitors on the board last night, then it was sitting today.... -
by HakuuHi There,
This TV was auto switching off after few seconds with some vertical lines on the screen, so got a new TCON board and replaced it.
After replacing the TCON board it was working fine and i set it up with everything, used for few hours, then had the bright idea to update the software on it. During the update process, TV switched off and now no audio or video. No relay switch sound.
More Details
TV Model - LG OLED77G1PUA
Got the same exact TCON board from TVPartsToday and replaced it. But didnt transfer the EPPROM data (didnt... -
by cmlewis89Hi folks,
I'm new to this forum. So my trusty 17-year-old LG 47" LCD recently died. As I was booting it up, I heard a hum followed by a loud bang, sounds of pieces flying around, and loss of power to the unit. Inspecting the PSU, I saw two obvious problems: a blown thermistor (bang + flung pieces) and a visibly bulging main cap. Inspecting as many components as I could with my Fluke MM, I diagnosed that the following components on the "hot side" of the board were also bad: one of the 2 main MOSFETs, main 8A fuse, small cap (25V 47uF) connected to main caps, and a blown...12 Photos - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment