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Brian_STI
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Last Activity: 12-15-2016, 04:36 PM
Joined: 07-30-2015
Location: Tampa, FL
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  • Re: Panasonic - TH-P50X80A - Strange problem - unresponsive & cycles input

    The button board is bad. Pull it out and replace the tact switches or the board itself.
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  • Re: LED Failure

    BTW, a lot of LEDs can short and still have the unit working. I just disassembled a Samsung that had 19...19 bad LEDs, it had 19 good LEDs. When one finally failed open was when the TV finally failed and was brought into the shop. Worst case of bad LEDs I've seen, no rhyme or reason, good and bad were scattered through the strips. I'm not sure of the make of these particular LEDs but they look the same as the full array LGs, which also fail all the time.
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  • Re: Panasonic Sus board TMPA 5349

    You're going to need to check the drivers too. Disconnect the Y-sus from the drivers and then check from each of those connection pins to floating ground. The pinout changes based on model/series but you should have three that read in the mega-ohms or kilo-ohms on each connector.

    Also, to verify a short on the Y-sus you can check the pins leading into the Y-sus from the power supply.

    Check the chassis grounds on the Y-sus; they're probably nearly void of solder, resolder those.
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  • Re: 2010 Panasonic TC-P42GT25 Plasma Troublshooting

    Are you sure you have the right suffix? They are sort of complicated and I've seen a lot of incorrectly labelled boards. Check shopjimmy, they should show you how to read the suffix, it's done with some surface mount caps and a table printed on the board. If those don't match, it won't work.

    I'm not at the shop so I can't look it up but (based on memory) I believe you're right that a 10 blink on the GT25 is the A board. Are you getting your VS and VA voltages at all? Does the screen prime? You'll want to check as...
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  • Re: LG TV or TV diagnostic tools ?

    Luckily there isn't a tool or I wouldn't have a job.
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  • Re: Can anyone identify this capacitor?

    BTW, seems like a lot of people don't know how you go about replacing these caps. With these you want to cut them, cut them? I know, it seems weird but take some cutters and cut them just above the black plastic, cut them completely off. Then the plastic piece and leads are left attached to the board. You slide the plastic piece off then desolder the leads as normal.

    To replace the cap, treat it like any other surface mount component.
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  • Re: Lg 50LN5600 no video but audio is good.

    Seen it before, I can verify that it's bad LEDs. If you want to test them, after disassembling, the board the input voltage for each strip(two strips connected in the middle) is 24v DC. Half a strip turns on at 10v DC but will only work if you bridge the connector in the middle(It will be two traces that slide into the other board). It's less than 400mA btw.
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  • Re: LED Diode repair help

    These have traces, the aluminum is just a heat sink. The traces are visible in the last picture, one on top and two on the bottom. You can trace these from the board input. The best way to remove these LEDs are with a hot air station, I heat up the underside of the board then heat the LED side of the board while holding the LED with tweezers.

    These LEDs will be in series, so right now the strip will not work. You need to complete those traces to complete the circuit.

    Source: I have fixed well over a dozen bad panels in several...
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  • Re: Multimeter Settings!



    That's a better idea than bothering to test the capacitance. Capacitance rarely tells you whether the cap is working properly. ESR is the way to go....
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  • Re: What am I doing wrong desoldering?

    What stj said...though sometimes you're just going to have difficulty, specifically with multi-layered boards. What you need then is Chip-quik, it's expensive(for what you get) but a little goes a long way. It will lower the melt point of the solder so it more easily comes off the board with solder wick.
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