Re: Which Fluke do you have?
old fashion FLUKE 116 - need it for freq, and temp measurement...
Which Fluke do you have?
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-185-review/Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
My go-to meter is a Tektronix TX3. Its much nocer than any Fluke I've ever used.
I do have a Fluke 77, and an 8060A, which get used occasionally.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
Or a Keysight? Sigh... hard to keep track of the "Real" HP these days.
I only have a Fluke 77 (series II I think). I guess I have a lot of multimeters, and most of them are used when convenient as they're spread around the house.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
Fluke 28-II love it, it's basically the same as the 87-V only rugged...
Fluke 325 clamp meter, really nice form factor, also a great meter.
Only thing that would make it better is if it could also do microamps.
Fluke 113, bought this one a really long time ago, only wanted it for the capacitance mode which works great.
Other than that it's useless, it has the VCHEK mode which is supposed to make life easier but I'll just quote myself:
Originally posted by Per HanssonWhat I find confusing is that this meter is aimed at less knowledgeable folks but in my mind you need an even greater understanding of electricity so you realize when it gives wrong readings...
The 113 actually tripped the RCD when measuring between ground and neutral.
Between ground a phase it was ok.
I guess the low input impedance of 3kΩ is enough to trip the RCD which is rated for 30mA.
The short circuit current the 113 exposes in resistance mode is ca 350 μA but I'm not sure how that relates to the VCHEK mode.
Conclusion: the damn meter can't even be used by electricians to measure AC because it will trip the whole house RCD, awsome!Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
The only Fluke handheld I have is an 8020B, and I have an 8600 (4 1/2 digit), an 8000, and an 8050B.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
I have Fluke 87 V,it's expensive but it's worth it.
http://en-us.fluke.com/products/digi...ultimeter.htmlLeave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
I make use of a few meters. From Fluke I currently use 189, 177, 179, 117, 113 and Fluke 11. Also have a 1735 Power Logger but hardly use that piece of gear. In fact its up for sale. ;-)
The Fluke 189 has terrible battery life and is overcomplex for quick measurements so I tend to like using it for very accurate stuff and for data logging.
The 177 and 179 are the bench/field tag team.
The 117 I like because its a small compact meter and is very decent. 113 is just a basic version of the 117.
And the old Fluke 11 is also nice and compact and does everything thats needed except for current measurement.
Hoping to have a Fluke Scopemeter pretty soon for field use and also for isolated scope on the bench.
They really are fantastic meters and everytime I drift off brand i end up slipping back at some point. The only other brand I use is Brymen.
Have a great week all.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
Hmm, did you stumble across the Brymen and Greenlee (also 500,000 count)? They all look like they got their internals from the same ODM?
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/product...e-multimeters/
500,000 on the Extech sounded cool and then I noticed the manual said 1.5 times update speed for 500,000 count. 5 times update speed for 50,000.Last edited by retiredcaps; 05-24-2012, 04:05 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
I actually don't have a Fluke.
The only problem with Flukes is that they are such a known name that they hold their value almost too well. That being said I would definitely consider a Fluke (probably a 117) if I was buying it new rather than used.
Flukes are definitely good but their other good companies out there too you may want to consider, as well, especially if buying used.
I also have a bunch of sub $20 Harbor Freight multi-meters I use where a high level precision is not necessary.
For example: If you like to measure the voltage output of one UPS device,
the average measuring meters ( Non True RMS ) they will not measure all the volts.
The reading will be less than the real by allot.
By having this factor in mind as must have!!
Your next move is to get a True RMS meter and nothing less.
If you find the meter which haves the most key functions for your needs,
this is right meter for you.
Brand names and pricing comes second when you care to get the right tool for you.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
$65 Buy It now on ebay. Not bad for 500,000 count dmm, but seller won't ship internationally.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221029826494Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
$65 Buy It now on ebay. Not bad for 500,000 count dmm, but seller won't ship internationally.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221029826494Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
I actually don't have a Fluke.
My "good" multi-meter is an Extech MM570. I don't have any issues with Fluke but I got a really good price on the Extech on eBay. The only problem with Flukes is that they are such a known name that they hold their value almost too well. That being said I would definitely consider a Fluke (probably a 117) if I was buying it new rather than used. Flukes are definitely good but their other good companies out there too you may want to consider, as well, especially if buying used.
I also have a bunch of sub $20 Harbor Freight multi-meters I use where a high level precision is not necessary.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
My latest is the 28II.
Even so I have on my bench.
8050A
8012A
8010ALeave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
From HVAC night school 2004-2006, I have the Fluke 16 and a second one. I think it is the Fluke 222 (AC amp-clamp plus basic VOM).
Both are great for HVAC stuff. Is your home A/C compressor taking much more current than the manufacturer plate? It might be dying. Does the blower motor capacitor still live up to its rating? You can check it with ease.
They are also good for general computer/auto/home use. Far better than the old Radio Shack analog meter so many people have.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-a...ultimeter.html
2) If you want another Fluke multimeter, I suggest getting something to complement what you already have. Two features you may find useful in the future are autohold and measuring current which are not present on the Fluke 12.
3) I find autohold useful when I have to concentrate on holding the probes steady because of tiny component like a 20 pin IC or very tight physical areas where high voltage is present. With autohold, the multimeter will beep when it gets a steady reading. That way, I can remove the probes safely and then look at my measurement. Not all Fluke multimeters have autohold. The 110 series has "hold" which is the useless hold feature where you need a 3rd hand to push the button to hold the reading.
4) The other feature that I thought I would never use is current measurement. After about 18 months of using a multimeter, I finally needed current measurement to test for a parasitic car battery drain. I will also need it because I ran out of 3A fuses and I'm wondering if a 1.5A fuse will work in the Dell 2007FPW.
5) If you don't mind buying used, I suggest buying from ebay. You can get some great bargains if you are patient and ready to act on mispriced "Buy It Now" listings. I got 2 Flukes from ebay with BIN at great prices. You have a HUGE ADVANTAGE bidding against me. Many USA sellers will not ship to Canada. Those who do charge an INSANE amount for shipping/handling. Every minute I wait to get the seller's okay to ship to Canada means someone in the USA is looking at the BIN and that puts me at a huge disadvantage.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...1&postcount=66
6) This is an excellent ebay buying guide written by an expert Fluke user. His staircase photo is famous (very last photo on eevblog).
http://reviews.ebay.com/Fluke-Meters...00000007478323
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/general...97225af7a4e513
7) The best time to buy on ebay is when the auction ends on a major USA holiday. You won't find too much competition.
8) Now I know you probably don't need ten Amprobe 34XRs, but check this out
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=237903
If I were allowed to bid, I think $45 might win this auction. That is less than $5 for a True RMS multimeter.Last edited by retiredcaps; 05-16-2012, 01:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Which Fluke do you have?
I have a 77 and an 87V.
Love the 87, but really almost anything it good enough for any repair work I do.
5.01v or 5.12v, who cares, the 5v is working
Not sure what "sophistication" is going to help with monitors or tube amps?
Speaking of which, tonight's project is cleaning all the scratchy pots in my poor neglected Marshall.Leave a comment:
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by KhojaHello experts,
I recently purchased a used Fluke 123 Industrial Scopemeter from an online Japanese auction site (jauce.com). It has now been delivered. Unfortunately, I overlooked the fact that the seller neither guarantees its working condition nor accepts returns.
When I power it on, the backlight comes on, but there is no image on the screen. After opening the device, I noticed clear signs of previous soldering in several areas (photos attached). It seems someone attempted repairs before.
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by BaldbentleyI am repairing a Fluke 335 clamp meter. After contacting fluke it appears there is no service manual or circuit board/ component list available. I have determined that there us a faulty PNP bipolar junction transistors shown in the pictures. I am having trouble sourcing this transistor. I pulled a good one off of the board and tested it with my component analyzer but I cannot find anything that matches the specifications. Any help locating this part or a replacement would be greatly appreciated.
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by CrystaleyesNeed a new (used) DMM and there are two in the area for resonable prices.
The Agilent U1242A is 63 GBP (about 80 USD)
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...4dc89c13fc.pdf
The Fluke 179 is 55 GBP (roughly $68.00)
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/...fluke-179-eda2
Kinda leaning towards the Agilent.
Anyone think that is a bad idea? -
Looking for a schematic for a Marshal G25R guitar amp.
(it's actually a Park amp)...2 Photos-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
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by cheeky2See attached picture. I have a Fluke T100 Voltage Tester that the resistance and diode measurement isn't working (it's not the batteries (as I have already checked them and put decent Duracell 1.5V AAA batteries inside it).
I have looked on the web for any information and on youtube without any results for this model.
There are no screws visible or anything obvious. So I am hoping someone here has the solution to take it apart?
The only way I can see is underneath the yellow rubber handle area, however I don't wish to damage it if it isn't the case!... - Loading...
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