Gateway fpd1975w

**EGuevarae** · 06-02-2010, 10:31 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by PlainBill

...I can't remember his name, but it's something like planebull....

**weflyuniv** · 06-02-2010, 11:30 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by PlainBill

The P5544-ND is not a low ESR cap and is unsuitable for this application. There are no specs listed for the Arcotronics caps, I wouldn't trust them for this application.

As it stands, the best option appears to be P11221-ND EEU-FC1E821 820 uF, 25 Volt 10mm x 25mm caps. I don't like the idea of cramming in 12.5mm x 20 mm, OR bending the leads to offset them. None of the 1000uF caps I find will fit either (no, I haven't done an exhaustive search). If push comes to shove, a ball peen hammer and a block of soft wood will put a set of dimples in the cover to give a little extra clearance.

Otherwise, take a picture of the bottom of the board and I will see if I can figure out what supply voltage we are dealing with here, but I'm NOT real comfortable with dropping down to 16 volt caps. I much prefer 'better than original' to 'maybe almost as good as original'.

PlainBill

OK! I have ordered the parts! I went with the tall 820s. You really won my heart with the ball peen hammer suggestion! I so appreciate your assistance with all this. You and RetiredCaps really made this a good learning process. I will post the results when I fire those babies up! At least if they don't work I will have the reassurance that it was not for lack of making a good choice with the caps. I do wonder however if it is likely that something else failed and the bulged caps are a symptom of that failure rather than the cause of the malfunction. I have a sense though from reading this forum that cap failure is the most likely culprit in most cases where caps show signs of failure. Is that about right? I am looking much more carefully for bad caps than I was before I made my first post.

Thanks again gents!

Ken

**EGuevarae** · 06-02-2010, 11:46 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by weflyuniv

.... I do wonder however if it is likely that something else failed and the bulged caps are a symptom of that failure rather than the cause of the malfunction.....

The cause of the bulged caps is a combination of poor quality caps, lack of ventilation, excess of heat, bad design (or bad implementation of a good design) and the use/life of the unit.
Even if that is not the only cause, you can't troubleshoot with that caps in there.
And I second you about Bill.... he's the man, isn't he?

**dobber** · 06-05-2010, 12:55 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Great freebee monitor, I had a bad 10v 1000uf cap. Works like a charm now.

**weflyuniv** · 06-22-2010, 11:39 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

I am very happy to report that today I completed the recapping of the second and third of the three non-working LCD displays that I described at the beginning of this thread. All three work as new now thanks to the guidance I received here. It is somewhat astonishing that with no understanding of electronics, or electricity for that matter, it was possible for me to repair three LCD displays for $16.47. At the next recycle I will grab every "dead" LCD I can stuff in my Corolla! The long delay in completing them was due to waiting for a soldering station to be delivered. I had used some old relic soldering iron and fat solder and although I resurrected that first one successfully I decided to see if a better tool would help. I should explain that I am a cheap guy. If I had ever figured out how to make money in my life and if I had surplus I would follow a different plan but I don't have money to burn. I have for many years followed a policy of always starting with the cheapest version of any product I am considering. I will only consider a more expensive choice when the cheapest fully fails to produce a desired result. This approach rarely fails me and I chose as a result the cheapest soldering station I could find. The Senior members almost certainly can guess that it is the Velleman VTSS5. I bought it online from EIO in Torrance, CA for $12.95. It can barely melt solder on the highest setting (there is no numeric temperature readout) but it got the job done. I watched the excellent video recommended to me by RetiredCaps and I followed the instructions pretty carefully. I can't help wondering how much more satisfying having a proper soldering station that achieves the temps that produce the quick results in that video but I will continue to struggle with my dogshit Velleman! I have no doubt a better station would make soldering a joy and save me some of the headaches I have been getting as well as producing much better soldered connections.

PlainBill your help in selecting the right caps is of enormous value. All of what I have seen you post is remarkably clear and you exhibit amazing patience with the ignorant. It is much appreciated!

I have a Sharp LC-26DV24U about a year and a half old that I would like to tackle next. The display works when turned on but that is it - just a white screen and no other function. When my headache goes away I will take that apart and see if anyone wants to guide my through troubleshooting. I will start a new thread when I dive in to that puppy.

Thanks gents! I am so excited! I feel like I have discovered a hidden "super power"!

Ken

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 12:02 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by weflyuniv

All three work as new now thanks to the guidance I received here.

Funny, I was just thinking yesterday about whatever happened to your monitors.

Good for you on getting the first 3 working. I'm up to 11 fixed now. There is one that is really giving me problems, but I'm learning a LOT along the way.

Originally posted by weflyuniv

At the next recycle I will grab every "dead" LCD I can stuff in my Corolla!

I wish I could do that here! :-)

Originally posted by weflyuniv

I should explain that I am a cheap guy.

Nothing wrong with that. I share a lot of your views.

Originally posted by weflyuniv

I have for many years followed a policy of always starting with the cheapest version of any product I am considering. I will only consider a more expensive choice when the cheapest fully fails to produce a desired result.

The only part where I don't follow the cheapest philosophy is where something will bring me immense enjoyment. For those, I try to get best value.

If you get deeper into this, you may need a multimeter (DMM). My foray into the cheap $1 ebay DMM has opened my eyes big time regarding build quality and safety. I bought another DMM from ebay, but until it arrives, I won't write about it yet.

Don't buy the cheap $1 DMM on ebay.

Originally posted by weflyuniv

I have a Sharp LC-26DV24U about a year and a half old that I would like to tackle next. The display works when turned on but that is it - just a white screen and no other function. I will start a new thread when I dive in to that puppy.

Yes, start a new thread. Many here will help. I already have a vague idea what you should look at by your description.

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 12:13 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Just removed this section out to comment on it a bit easier and others can chime in.

My first soldering job was horrible and my 30w soldering iron is your cheapest ebay special. I'm sure your iron is more than adequate.

Over the last few weeks, I learned that the "secret" to melting solder is to ADD a bit of solder to the existing solder.

If your solder is 60/40 with some rosin, it will contain about 2% flux. Flux is weak acid that will help melt the old solder. The old solder is likely lead free to meet RoHS.

By adding some flux, it will help melt the old solder. I also tried solder wick and a desolder pump. I prefer the pump A LOT more than the wick. I got the pump via ebay. I just sorted by price and got the cheapest one. The local store wanted $40 for theirs and I got mine for $3 off ebay and it works great.

And your soldering will definitely get better. I would grade my first solder job a D- and now some of my solder joints are almost identical to the factory applied solder!

PS. A clean tip will also help melt the solder. Also different tip sizes and shapes make a difference in melting old solder.

Originally posted by weflyuniv

It can barely melt solder on the highest setting (there is no numeric temperature readout) but it got the job done. I have no doubt a better station would make soldering a joy and save me some of the headaches I have been getting as well as producing much better soldered connections.

**bc_999** · 06-23-2010, 03:11 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

just disassembled my fpd1975w; has been shutting off after a few minutes...

replace all the capacitors, right?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43312216@N06/4728623602/

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 03:29 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

You can attach a pic here (see FAQ). Take one that is directly above the board (front and backside).

Shutting down after a few minutes could be the one or more caps being bad (having high ESR or not enough capacitance), some sort of IC getting too hot, bad/cold solder joints, CCFL going bad, etc.

Do the board look burnt or discolored in one area? It might give a clue as to what area/component is getting hot?

You can also try lowering the contrast/brightness to say 25/25 to see if the monitor will stay on longer.

Originally posted by bc_999

just disassembled my fpd1975w; has been shutting off after a few minutes...

replace all the capacitors, right?

**bc_999** · 06-23-2010, 04:35 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

pics attached

Don't recognize signs of overheating.

Would like feedback on pics b4 reassemble and adjust contrast/brightness.

Thanks!

Attached Files

if you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site

**Wrog** · 06-23-2010, 08:43 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by bc_999

Don't recognize signs of overheating.

Kind of looks like there is minor heat related discoloration around the inverter drivers (let me guess, they are marked AOD405 and AOD408?). Please try to take a more top-down picture instead of at an angle, it will make it easier to mark test points.

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 10:03 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Take your board next to a window on a sunny day and take the picture top down. Put your camera in macro mode and you should get clear pics with enough light from the window.

Originally posted by Wrog

Please try to take a more top-down picture instead of at an angle, it will make it easier to mark test points.

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 10:28 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

BTW, who makes the caps? It should list a name, series, and a date. Something like

Samxon GF(M)
0732

Originally posted by bc_999

pics attached

**retiredcaps** · 06-23-2010, 10:47 PM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Sorry for the multiple posts, but just thought of something else. To see if this is heat related, you can point a fan at the back of the case to see if it makes the monitor run longer.

Originally posted by bc_999

just disassembled my fpd1975w; has been shutting off after a few minutes...

**bc_999** · 06-24-2010, 05:04 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

i'll post better pics.

green caps are Samxon GF(M); large black cap is Samxon KM(M).

**retiredcaps** · 06-24-2010, 10:07 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

See this thread re Samxon GF series.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...ight=samxon+gf

Personally, I would do more troubleshooting before coming to the conclusion that I should change caps first, but it is your call. It shouldn't cost more than $10 USD to recap your entire board.

As I said, the shutdown after a few minutes could be due to a lot of other reasons other than bad caps.

Originally posted by bc_999

green caps are Samxon GF(M); large black cap is Samxon KM(M).

**mtaylor1300** · 07-29-2010, 10:31 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

2 Questions:

1)
I have the Gateway FPD1975W and the device is have a little different issues then this thread describes. The LCD powers on and then shows display on screen for few seconds then goes black. Howerever, the device refreshes display any time a major change in the display happens, like a new windows opens up. But then it goes blank again. The LED indicator goes from blue to amber when this happens. I had this run in parrallel on my laptop display so I know the the device was refreshing new screens when the reappearence took place. ( Note: it didn't refresh when scrolling text happened just on major screen changes... I hope this make sense)
Is this from the Cap issue?

2)
I found a web site that sells Cap kits for each manufacture of LCD and then by model. The run around $13 a kit. They have an ebay store as well. I was concerend on the list of cap manufactures they use. They list others besides Panasonic... I don't know if they are good as well.
" We only use high quality capacitors manufactured by Panasonic, Nichicon and Illinois Capacitor. We do not use CapXon capacitors."

Here is link: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/

It seems to take confusion and which ones to buy out of the equation.
Has anyone used them to confirm quality of caps?
Any words of wisdom..?

I thought this would be good for other newbees like me.

**mtaylor1300** · 07-29-2010, 10:35 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

2 Questions:

1)
I have the Gateway FPD1975W and the device is have a little different issues then this thread describes. The LCD powers on and then shows display on screen for few seconds then goes black. Howerever, the device refreshes display any time a major change in the display happens, like a new windows opens up. But then it goes blank again. The LED indicator goes from blue to amber when this happens. I had this run in parrallel on my laptop display so I know the the device was refreshing new screens when the reappearence took place. ( Note: it didn't refresh when scrolling text happened just on major screen changes... I hope this make sense)
Is this from the Cap issue?

2)
I found a web site that sells Cap kits for each manufacture of LCD and then by model. The run around $13 a kit. They have an ebay store as well. I was concerend on the list of cap manufactures they use. They list others besides Panasonic... I don't know if they are good as well.
" We only use high quality capacitors manufactured by Panasonic, Nichicon and Illinois Capacitor. We do not use CapXon capacitors."

Here is link: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/

It seems to take confusion and which ones to buy out of the equation.
Has anyone used them to confirm quality of caps?
Any words of wisdom..?

I thought this would be good for other newbees like me.[/QUOTE]

**retiredcaps** · 07-29-2010, 10:59 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

Originally posted by mtaylor1300

2 Questions:

1) Is this from the Cap issue?

2) Has anyone used them to confirm quality of caps?
Any words of wisdom..?

1) Possibly. We need clear focused pictures on your board to see if the caps are bad or not.

See

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868

2) I'm guessing it will be cheaper to order your own caps from a source like digikey than the ebay auction. Once the caps are identified, many here can help verify you have the right caps.

**PlainBill** · 07-29-2010, 11:56 AM

Re: Gateway fpd1975w

1. This could be the caps in the power supply; it could also be a pair of caps in the inverter. Or it could be some other problem.

Typically you can buy the caps to completely recap a monitor from Digikey for $10.00, including shipping. One problem with the kit approach is the way Gateway procures monitors. We had a thread here recently where two Gateway monitors had the same model number, but totally different internal parts.

PlainBill

Gateway fpd1975w

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