The Recapping FAQ

[Scenic]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

http://bambooz.pytalhost.net/badcaps...apping_FAQ.pdf



BTW: all files uploaded to upload.wozzap.de will be deleted automatically after 1 month.

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

Nice collection, Paul

Willa did all of the work, I just copied and pasted.

I noticed only a minor error: Asus brand is spelled As us in page 15, below the picture.

Zandrax

Dam spell check got me! There was one time when I accidently double-clicked and accepted something that I didn't check. I guess that was it.

[zandrax]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I don't know if you needed me to give you the url for the uploaded file, but here it is;
http://upload.wozzap.de/up/The%20Recapping%20FAQ.pdf

Nice collection, Paul
I noticed only a minor error: Asus brand is spelled As us in page 15, below the picture.

Zandrax

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I don't know if you needed me to give you the url for the uploaded file, but here it is;

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

upload the .pdf version at http://xxx.xxx.x.xxx(10MB Filesize limit ; not allowed file extensions are listed there) and post the link here. i will then upload it to my private webspace and post the link here.

edit: my private webspace is paid webspace... not some free hoster crap that could disappear without a warning

Done.

Thanks, I hope that I did it correctly. My Deutsch is a little rusty. Just because my last name is Schmidt doesn't mean I know the language.

[Scenic]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

upload the .pdf version at http://upload.wozzap.de (10MB Filesize limit ; not allowed file extensions are listed there) and post the link here. i will then upload it to my private webspace and post the link here.

edit: my private webspace is paid webspace... not some free hoster crap that could disappear without a warning

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I corrected the problem with the images in the Word version of this How-To. But now the file is 8.6MB and way too huge to upload. The PDF version is still 1.7 MB

Moderator: If a file (PDF) version of this thread is something that you would like to add, please contact me. Also, you can remove my last two posts, as they are no longer relevant.

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I see that the images weren't saved with the Word file. That is why a PDF file is better. I can't edit the last post anymore to remove the bad file.

[Paul S]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I wanted a recaping How-To that I could just print out, so I created a PDF document of The Recapping FAQ. But, it is too larg (1.7MB) for me to attach it to a post. I made the original on Linux using the OpenOffice Office Suite, but the OpenOffice document format of .odt is not an allowed file format.

So, OO will also save it as a MS Word document, so I attached that file here. It altered it a little, so I had to re-edit it.

Is there any way to get the PDF version added to the forum or badcaps web site? That is assuming you want to add it.

[ftaduffy]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

I have been in electronics for over 40 years and the best way I found to clean out holes after removing a part is to use compressed air set at about 10 to 15 pounds. USE ONLY A LOW AIR PREASURE!!! THIS MUST BE DONE CAREFULLY!!. I hold the board vertically in a vice by putting some padding one the edge so I do not damage the board. I put a cut down box about a foot in back of the board. Wearing a glove on the hand with the soldering iron I heat the hole while at the same time I hold a blowgun one the other side of the hole. As soon as the solder is melted I press the button on the blowgun and quickly remove the iron. This blows all the solder out. The box collects the solder splatter and the glove protects my hand. CAUTION SHOULD BE USED AND SAFTEY GLASSES SHOULD BE WORN!!.

[bgavin]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

Many thanks to Willawake for the sticky FAQ. I followed it verbatim, and my first recap job was a complete success.

Notable points in the FAQ are the temperature points for removal and replacement. I found the pin method for clearing the board holes worked best for me. I used some of my wife's dress making pins with a ball end for easy pushing.

Key point: be sure to clear the holes using the 450C temp setting. Lower than this doesn't work well at all.

Key point: flow new solder on to every lead you are going to remove. The FAQ is dead-on with this one. Worked great.

I used a Hakko 936 12/P with the standard small chisel tip. Solder was Kester 60/40.

[solarvolt]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

Have found it useful over the years to ALWAYS photo document boards as well as diagram; just often enough being able to refer to a series of clear BEFORE pics from various angles will reveal some element that hadn't been covered in a diagram. Thanks to all for these excellent articles! (doing Abit VL6 project prep)

[parttimebill]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

...some very good information... thanks... parttimebill

[Elitist]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

PS. Sometimes I use a fine drill bit in a hand chuck to clear the hole. Essential to use an undersize drill bit!

mod comment : this is not recommended. probably you will screw it up.

[Elitist]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

Beautiful!
You didn't include an hairdryer/electric paint stripper to warm the board before attacking it with a soldering iron. Also a useful implement for removing smc ics and memory chips!

[willawake]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

i am updating with some pics as requested.

[Elitist]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

crkhed:
The scribed marks in the top of caps are deliberate stress-relief markings so that when they explode they do so with less ferocity and in a semi-controlled manner. This is a standard technique in engineering. In hydrogen plant engineering the roofs are generally hinged! Upwards, that is....

[davmax]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

There are many good tips posted in this thread regarding recapping. You need to read the full process posted by Willawake to see the full equipment list and the alternate methods. You may then find the following tip can simplify the process.

New Cap soldering.

The most simple and efficient method is to cut a 6mm length of 0.7 – 0.8mm fluxed solder and bend it into a V shape (stops any prospect of rolling) before inserting the cap. Insert the cap, press the body against the board surface and cut the leads so that they are 0.5 – 1 mm above the board surface. Holding the cap in place pick up the 6mm length of solder and place it against one of the leads. Pick up the soldering iron and place it on the solder next to the lead. The solder will run into the via and one lead is now held. The remaining lead can soldered by placing the iron tip on the lead and feeding solder into the junction of the lead and soldering iron, this is much faster and more thermally efficient than having the iron and solder on opposite sides of the lead, making for a very quick solder time.

Once soldering is completed the flux must be cleaned away and each via inspected for a prospective short with a magnifying glass, preferably x10. Methylated spirits and a tooth brush are two low cost flux removal tools. Finally clean up with a lint free rag moistened with meth.

I hope you find this helpful.

[davmax]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

Getting a clean hole thru a via.
A tip to improve sucking out some vias. If the first attempt clears say about half the hole there is a need to get flux into the hole to make the solder more mobile. This can be achieved best if you are using fine flux cored solder no larger in diameter than 0.7 mm. First insert the cold solder as far into the via as possible then apply the soldering iron to run flux and solder into the via. The solder in the hole will now suck out more readily and should leave a clean hole.

[davmax]

Re: The Recapping FAQ

A few useful recap tips.

1. When inserting the capacitor, hold it firmly against the motherboard and cut off both leads close to the surface (using a good, fine and sharp cutter) before soldering. This will enable the solder to flow over and down the cap leads making a neat finish as well. This in fact emulates the original soldering.
2. When soldering is complete it is important to clean off all soldering flux. With the flux removed it will be possible to inspect (with a magnifying glass) the critical vias surrounded by earth plane. Any stray fine solder can then be identified and removed. To remove the flux use a stiff brush(toothbrush) and some methylated spirits and then clean/dry up with a lint free rag.