LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
So I have recapped the board and nothing has changed. when I plug it in the blue light flashes and turns on, then in a few seconds it goes to orange. the power button, when pressed causes the same result.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
I just tried hooking it up to an Xbox and still no luck. It takes ~ 9 seconds for the LED to go from blue to orange (standby). Any more ideas?Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Originally posted by acidophilusI don't have cable so that makes it more difficult.
Hook up an antenna -any kind of an antenna. My favorite is a 4' length of very old telephone wire. It plugs right into the coax connector. Try hitting the 'Input' button to see if the sound changes.
Another source I use is an old Nintendo with composite outputs. Hook it up, then hit the 'Input' button to see if you can at least hear the background music as you switch between inputs.
PlainBillFor a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Originally posted by PlainBillHere's a couple of ideas for eliminating 'no signal' as a possible problem.
Hook up an antenna -any kind of an antenna. My favorite is a 4' length of very old telephone wire. It plugs right into the coax connector. Try hitting the 'Input' button to see if the sound changes.
Another source I use is an old Nintendo with composite outputs. Hook it up, then hit the 'Input' button to see if you can at least hear the background music as you switch between inputs.
PlainBill
The backlights don't flicker or anything, just the "on" LED.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
"Nobody has had any problems with a westinghouse 32 inch LCD TV? or any idea of any common problems?"
i also have one of these little 'pains' sitting here - given to me by a friend who dumped his westinghouse tv. i removed the supply to do a quick inspection but haven't had the time to go any further on it. i didn't even bother testing it in the tv yet - just pulled the supply right out.. it's seems it's always the same failure mode... for a few months, the tv 'plays' for a number of minutes, then blue light, then off. only a power cycle allows it to come back to life. after that period of time is over you get what you have now.. just no-op.
i think there are 1000s of dead or semi-dead units of this power supply out there in 27" & 32" westinghouse lcds, vizio, and a few others. they died very prematurely on a lot of people. there was talk about class action - never happened of course... people with big talk - no time for action. delta elec always made a great product so it seems that something caught them off guard on this supply. the mechanical assembly / design of this board appears to be top notch - the caps always look solid and the rest of the parts look well heat-sunk.. there's something else going on.. i did see one guy - and only one on the whole web - who posted a note concerning this supply saying that there was a 47uF cap somewhere that had to be replaced.. i haven't had the time to investigate it yet but i'll be watching this thread & hopefully you'll make some headway.. (-:Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Have you measured the actual output voltages of the power supply? I've been operating under the assumption that the flaw was probably in the signal board, and likely unrepairable. This wouldn't be the first time my assumptions turned out to be wrong.
PlainBillFor a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Success! I found the T1 pin on the transformer had a bad connection so I re-soldered it and it turned on. Spread the word.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
hi,
i used your photo to mark out the T1 leads in yellow (from what I can see). mine appear to be good. BUT, the one I circled in red (one side of capacitor C310) is definitely bad (cold) and this would explain exactly the type of behavior that many have seen after a 20 minute warm-up /heat-up cycle.
was yours one of the joints circled in yellow? either way, that was a great find. if this is typical, and it just might be, then the thing that caught Delta "off-guard" was the crappy wave-soldering baths that were done on these boards. this would also fit right in with the typical observation that "everything looks good" .. no bloated caps, etc. in fact, the top of these boards always seem to look 'good' .. it's the bottom soldering job that has problems - a little time & temperature and suddenly bam .. trouble after 14 months. but it would be even more interesting if it turns out to be the same problem joint across many of the boards. moral of the story.. don't go looking too deep.. it could be staring you right in the face the whole time..
~Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Originally posted by 12ax7ahi,
i used your photo to mark out the T1 leads in yellow (from what I can see). mine appear to be good. BUT, the one I circled in red (one side of capacitor C310) is definitely bad (cold) and this would explain exactly the type of behavior that many have seen after a 20 minute warm-up /heat-up cycle.
was yours one of the joints circled in yellow? either way, that was a great find. if this is typical, and it just might be, then the thing that caught Delta "off-guard" was the crappy wave-soldering baths that were done on these boards. this would also fit right in with the typical observation that "everything looks good" .. no bloated caps, etc. in fact, the top of these boards always seem to look 'good' .. it's the bottom soldering job that has problems - a little time & temperature and suddenly bam .. trouble after 14 months. but it would be even more interesting if it turns out to be the same problem joint across many of the boards. moral of the story.. don't go looking too deep.. it could be staring you right in the face the whole time..
~
I resoldered the joint on the upper left. the unit works well now. and as you said about looking too deep, I should have looked first off, I ended up replacing all of the caps when all I really needed was about an inch of solder.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
yeah, that's pin 5 ... mine looks fine but this all brings up a great point. these transformers are big & heavy and under heat & stress they will expand and attempt to pull their leads up from the pcb a bit. if the solder job is crappy then you're gonna run into this sort of thing. i think you just saved a bunch of people some work in the future. thanks for coming back & posting your find.
~Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
I am actually probably going to redo all of the joints, just to be safe. I hope others are able to fix this bored without too much work. Thanks for the input from everyone else.Comment
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Re: LTV32 w1 westinghouse tv
Thanks to all for your previous posts. I am having trouble with my sound "blipping" off at approximate 20 to 30 minute intervals and lately, the sound/picture going out completely. Unplugging and replugging the power cord would reset it. I, too, took a hard look at the Delta board and found a cold (cracked) solder joint at C310 [photo attached] as referenced by 12ax7a on 4/20; everything else looked tight. Just finished the resolder and will test tonight.
In the meantime, I've had another minor problem ever since the unit was new - the blue power-on indicator light on the front has never worked despite having it looked at by a Best Buy service maintainer (a whole 'nother story there) and calls to WX to no avail. I know that it has the ABILITY to work since it flashes on whenever the set is either unplugged or plugged in to wall power. The remote sensor on the same board works just fine. I've taken a photo of the board [attached] and even though everything SEEMS to be OK, the silk screened area under the capacitor shows two mounting possibilities; I'm wondering if a different capacitor of whatever size would "enable" the light. I want it to work because without it, we sometimes need to push our power on button on the remote several times before we see backlight and the input source graphics.
Any ideas???
Thanks in advance.............Dave H.Comment
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