that's dumb. if it's private and i give the link out it should work.
No. Private is private - only you can view, no matter who has the link.
If you want it publicly viewable but not searchable, you want to set it as "Unlisted".
I have seen those tactile buttons go shorted and other wacky things, and they don't show as shorted consistently when tested with a meter.
I would certainly try the set with the buttons disconnected. Just desolder the cable.
what I mean is if i desolder the button board at the plug connection, and that just so happens to not be the culprit, I would have to somehow solder it back and that's my worry; the plug being able to be reinserted through the board.
Oh, well there should be no big problem there, if you desolder it cleanly.
Do you have desolder braid or a desolder pump at least? That will allow you to remove it with clean pads and no solder blocking the holes. Also the wires will be free of too much solder and easily re-insertable through the holes afterwards.
It won't matter that the wires\leads are not very long, they don't need to be, they only need to be long enough to go through the holes and solder onto on the other side.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
If you're just doing the occasional repair etc then a cheap one like this would do: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-.../dp/B00ZXADYLO
(I have one much the same, I like the all-metal construction. I have heard of the cheap plastic ones breaking easily)
Solder braid is also handy. It's good for cleaning up the pads afterwards in case any solder was left. https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-De.../dp/B017ODKIPC should work well.
2-3mm width is good for most uses. If you get a different one, make sure it has flux in it, otherwise you'd need to buy a flux pen too.
For this particular scenario, you could desolder those wires with either tool.
Just make sure you reflow the joints to be desoldered with fresh solder before you start, it will make the job so much easier.
The desolder pump is great for removing the bulk of the solder and getting the leads\wires free. The braid is great for cleaning up any excess solder afterwards.
In general, I would recommend someone working on electronics to have both, as they complement each other.
For example, if you have to replace surface-mount components, you NEED braid to clean up the pads and make sure they are flat, before soldering in the new component.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
sorry for the late replies on this, but i just got my tools in and I've been focusing elsewhere. I'm ready to hit this again. I was just thinking and looking at the button board, if I desolder this board, how am I going to turn it on? 6 buttons on the board, I think 1 is power as I don't see a power button anywhere else.
i think the easiest thing for you to do is lift 1 leg of r114. you will have to confirm, but it looks like it feeds from the volume up button. this way you will only have to lift 1 pin and still have access to the power button.
ok now does it matter which leg of r114?
also you're saying the power comes in and goes through volume up, and then to power?
how do you propose I test this to confirm
upload a good clear pic of the left side of the board (i think. the area around the volume up button.) and we will confirm that it is the right resistor.
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