cstout
Member
Last Activity: 10-03-2024, 05:30 PM
Joined: 01-31-2024
Location: Sacramento, CA
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If C2 and C3 were in fact fuses, would it be worthwhile to use magnet wire on these pads and test? I'm hesitant simply because the remote works normally at 3V and I'd assume a blown fuse should stop normal function. It's all very odd to me. -
DeLonghi AC Remote only accepts 3V
Hello all, I've been looking into this portable air conditioner's remote control and can't find what could be causing the problem - or possibly this remote is just terribly designed.
The remote only works at exactly 3V - if I drop it any lower, using my bench power supply, to say, 2.9V then the remote will not flash the display and turn off. I don't have any AAA batteries that are exactly 1.5V each so I'm not sure if this remote is designed this way - to only use the freshest possible batteries, or if there's a failed component in the mix.
I can't find any schematics... -
Switch Lite liquid damage-no power
Hello all, I'm diagnosing a Switch Lite for my friend and found liquid damage that corroded the capacitors around the BQ24193 chip. I'm not 100% sure if the chip is actually bad yet, but I did find a shorted capacitor (image with red arrow). The short is still present with the BQ24193 chip removed and I unfortunately also found that the corrosion took the lives of a few capacitor pads as well as half of one of the chip's.
What do you think? Is there any chance at repairing these pads? Also, I'm not sure where to check next since the short is still present for the capacitor when the... -
Edit: Also, all soldered wires have been removed. Back to stock.Leave a comment:
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Here are some things I've checked so far:[LIST][*]R4D3-R4D8 resistors all check out[*]No bent pins in any USB ports[*]No visible damage to wireless module/power button board[/LIST]- Here are some things I've checked so far:[LIST]
- R4D3-R4D8 resistors all check out
- No bent pins in any USB ports
- No visible damage to wireless module/power button board[/LIST]
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Xbox 360 S Failed RGH3 Repair
Hello all,
I've just had my first ever run in with a mod failure. Really bummed about it, but hoping to learn more from it. It started as a means for soldering practice and ended with me wondering if it could be restored to function or if something were shorted and now dead.
This is an Xbox 360 S and the board sticker reads: X865009-001 Rev. D. It's a CORONA V4 (4GB nand, samsung ram).
When I apply power and press the power button, there is no fan movement or lights and all I get is the power-on beep. If I press the eject button I get the different eject... -
mon2[USER="295753"]mon2[/USER] Do you have any final suggestions for this bad boy or should I call it quits? I truly appreciate all your help. It's been a great learning experience.Leave a comment:
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How might I test the high side mosfet to confirm that it has indeed failed and destroyed the board?Leave a comment:
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Yeah, I'm not optimistic on the outcome for this one but my silver lining is the "knowing" of what specifically has failed instead of where I normally stop, which is - the main logic board is bad. It's intriguing to dive deeper and see - well, what about the logic board is bad?
Anyway, here's a shot of the meter for LA750 to F7000:2. Both sides of LA750 read the same.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3210500}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Here's all the inductor-style chips I could see. Board view lists them all with an "L" prefix.
L7030 - 6.3MΩ
L8410 - 9KΩ
L7701 - 429Ω
L8102 - 111Ω
L7660 - 2.45KΩ
L7600 - 3KΩ
LA950 - 45Ω
LA870 - 51Ω
LA860 - 51Ω
LA850 - 71Ω
[SIZE=16px][B]LA750 - 0Ω[/B][/SIZE]
L7231 - 10Ω
L7330 - 34Ω
L7221 - 9.4Ω
L7211 - 9.4Ω
L7420 - 14Ω
L7410 - 14ΩHere's all the inductor-style chips I could see. Board view lists them all with an "L" prefix.
L7030 - 6.3MΩ
L8410 - 9KΩLeave a comment:
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mon2[USER="295753"]mon2[/USER] your analogy was both understood and very funny.Leave a comment:
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Thanks, all. I did a quick test from F7001:2 to L7030 (both sides) and got 6.3MΩ. Please forgive me if L7030 is not a proper inductor (or not one at all) to test with. It appears to be the closest one.Leave a comment:
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No problem, hopefully this makes sense [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"large","data-attachmentid":3209448}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Possibly unrelated (seems to be a part of the GPU power circuit), but closer inspection on the underside of the board has revealed that RA602 is missing. Just scanning over it with my magnifying headset - I do not have a microscope.Leave a comment:
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4.8Ω - F7001:2 PPBUS_G3H
29.5Ω - F7001:1 PPVBAT_G3H_CHGR_REG (keeps dropping the longer I measure it)
4.8Ω - F7000:2 PPBUS_G3H
29.5Ω - F7000:1 PPVBAT_G3H_CHGR_REG (keeps dropping the longer I measure it)
with voltage applied:
12.29V - F7001:1
12.29V - F7000:1
Fuse 7001 is removed now as well. They took an unusual amount of heat and time to remove and there is no longer continuity after removing it so I believe I cooked it during removal.Leave a comment:
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Additionally, F7000 removed has no continuity BUT the pads on the board do (not sure if this is a good thing). Neighboring fuse F7001 [I]does[/I] have continuity so it does appear that F7000 is blown.Additionally, F7000 removed has no continuity BUT the pads on the board do (not sure if this is a good thing). Neighboring fuse F7001 [I]does[/I] have continuity so it does appear that F7000 is blown.Additionally, F7000 removed has no continuity BUT the pads on the board do (not sure if this is a good thing). Neighboring fuse F7001 [I]does[/I] have continuity so it does appear that F7000 is blownLeave a comment:
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Fuse removed and F7000:2 PPBUS_G3H and F7000:1 PPVBAT_G3H_CHGR_REG both showing 4.3Ω between pad and ground. With AC plugged in, each pad reads 32mV. I do have an adjustable power supply on my bench if needed.Leave a comment:
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6.3Ω on both sides of F7000 with battery and AC removed.Leave a comment:
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Another 820-01700 - A2141 with 5v 0A
Hello all, this is my first post. I'm fairly new to micro-soldering and BoardView and learning as much as I can right now. I've been in the repair business for 18 years now and I'm working on this puzzle of a MacBook Pro and hope to find the cause of failure.
At this point, I'm not sure if I've suffered the more common failure that kills the NAND, but that's what I'm trying to confirm.
Here's what I've checked so far...
The values below are with the OEM 96W charger.
voltage on PPBUS_G3H = 0V
-checked via F7000
voltage on PP3v3_G3H_RTC_X...
No activity results to display
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