Well, I was hoping to report back here that I had a perfectly functional TC-P50VT20. That's not the case.
The SC board arrived back from PTS today, so I put it in and powered the TV. After a few seconds of pressing the power button, I heard an audible "POP" and the set issued the 7 blink code. There was no smoke or any smell of electrical toast. I also couldn't detect any physically blown stuff on any of the boards.
I got the manuals out and found that one refers specifically to the SU/SD boards or the SC board.
So I looked at them again to see if I could find a blown cap or something and found I had forgotten to connect the little ribbon cable between the SU and SD boards (SD11/SU11). I connected this, but I still get the 7 blink code.
So I did the SU and SD Boards Isolation procedure where you disconnect all the connections between the SC and the SU/SD boards and jumper the pins at SC50. According to this procedure (if I'm interpreting it correctly), if the set still issues the 7 blink code under this test, the problem is with the SC board.
My question is does leaving this ribbon cable disconnected between the SU and SD board cause a catastrophic failure of the SC board? What do you recommend now? Should I send the three boards back to PTS and have them test all of them together and fix whatever comes from that?
I had a perfectly running TX-P46VT20E (european version of the TC-P46 13th generation plasma high end 3d model).
This weekend when I powerd up the panel from complete power off ( switch on the side was off) to power on, I heard a pop and saw a little flash (the room was dark) coming from the area where the SC board is sitting.
After this SOS4,
I unplugged SC2 (which is short) and SOS goes to SOS10.
Even unplugging SC20, P11 (so no SS and SC (or buffer) boards running) doesn't change anything on the SOS10!?
So my question is, is only the SC board damaged (P11 reconnected, the LED on SS board is green)? I can try to measure Buffer for shorts (not to blow replacement SC) and get a replacement SC Board (TNPA5081AG), but first I want to know if and how to check for more broken parts on my loved panny plasma.
What would you guess and/or recommend to else check?
I had a perfectly running TX-P46VT20E (european version of the TC-P46 13th generation plasma high end 3d model).
This weekend when I powerd up the panel from complete power off ( switch on the side was off) to power on, I heard a pop and saw a little flash (the room was dark) coming from the area where the SC board is sitting.
After this SOS4,
I unplugged SC2 (which is short) and SOS goes to SOS10.
Even unplugging SC20, P11 (so no SS and SC (or buffer) boards running) doesn't change anything on the SOS10!?
So my question is, is only the SC board damaged (P11 reconnected, the LED on SS board is green)? I can try to measure Buffer for shorts (not to blow replacement SC) and get a replacement SC Board (TNPA5081AG), but first I want to know if and how to check for more broken parts on my loved panny plasma.
What would you guess and/or recommend to else check?
thanks so much in advance for your help.
horuck
I would have to do some reading but what happens if it's all hooked up but SC2 and SC20 disconnected?
Blown SC can cause both 4 blink and 10 blinks but disconnecting other things may just be confusing the situation.
You have no choice but to contact PTS. Don't be surprised if they ask you to send your buffers in.
You can always hook the board up first without the buffers and jumper sc50, that way if it blows it takes those other boards out of the equation.
also the SC must be bolted in properly to ensure good earths, don't run it with lots of screws out.
The Vfg bolts in the Sd / Su are removed when performing the sc50 jumper run.
TW, Sooo....
I sent the SC Board, the SU board, and the SD Board back in to PTS. They found my SD board was fried beyond any repair. SU Board was ok!!!
So they fixed the SC Board, and sold me a refurbished SD board.
I reinstall them, and did the power up test, and ALL IS GOOD.
So I put it all back together, plug it into cable, and I have horizontal lines and bands across the screen. RATS!
Am I correct in assuming this is caused by me not properly seating or aligning the ribbon cables to the SU and SD boards?
I'm asking because I don't want to disassemble this thing again if the problem is the panel. If that's the case, the kids are going to have to learn to read books or something.
I sent the SC Board, the SU board, and the SD Board back in to PTS. They found my SD board was fried beyond any repair. SU Board was ok!!!
So they fixed the SC Board, and sold me a refurbished SD board.
I reinstall them, and did the power up test, and ALL IS GOOD.
So I put it all back together, plug it into cable, and I have horizontal lines and bands across the screen. RATS!
Am I correct in assuming this is caused by me not properly seating or aligning the ribbon cables to the SU and SD boards?
I'm asking because I don't want to disassemble this thing again if the problem is the panel. If that's the case, the kids are going to have to learn to read books or something.
Help lm one more time. I think I'm almost there!
there's no easy way to describe what to do other than the ribbons are not in straight or all the way.
So, only adjust with the TV off. Take the back off, turn it on , look at the lines and they will ine up with the buffer connector that is wrong, take note or get a marker to put a dot on what is wrong.
Turn it off, lift the latch, gently pull the ribbon out and with two hands get it really even and straight , insert and you can feel it wedge in.
If the latch is really hard to pull down that's usually the first warning it's not right.
The other thing is compare to a good one and often you'll see it's crooked.
there's no easy way to describe what to do other than the ribbons are not in straight or all the way.
So, only adjust with the TV off. Take the back off, turn it on , look at the lines and they will ine up with the buffer connector that is wrong, take note or get a marker to put a dot on what is wrong.
Turn it off, lift the latch, gently pull the ribbon out and with two hands get it really even and straight , insert and you can feel it wedge in.
If the latch is really hard to pull down that's usually the first warning it's not right.
The other thing is compare to a good one and often you'll see it's crooked.
there's no easy way to describe what to do other than the ribbons are not in straight or all the way.
So, only adjust with the TV off. Take the back off, turn it on , look at the lines and they will ine up with the buffer connector that is wrong, take note or get a marker to put a dot on what is wrong.
Turn it off, lift the latch, gently pull the ribbon out and with two hands get it really even and straight , insert and you can feel it wedge in.
If the latch is really hard to pull down that's usually the first warning it's not right.
The other thing is compare to a good one and often you'll see it's crooked.
SUCCESS!!! It took some learning, but I figured it out and the set works like new again!!!!
The total cost of the repair was about $240 US. And it only took about 5 months to fix.
yes, 6 blinks it should be, but I had this situation too on a 42gt20.
so... with sc2 and sc20 disconnected or the ss power link disconnected, I had 10 blinks. I had this situation with 2 identical A board, and first time I tought that both of them are bad. but... both of them were almost OK, and after fitting a good sc board the tv worked fine (one A board did not have image.).
get a good sc board and maybe sd or su boards if needed, and give it a shot. with A board separated from D board, the tv should start with full white screen. and... maybe if you disconnect sc2, sc20 and the connection between A and D boards... I did not try this, maybe it will go into 7 blinks... I am curious too. Also, I could try something, because I still have some gt20 boards.
and about your question, I guess 10 blinks is ok.
try to check the buffers, to have no shorts between panel outputs and the 4 power screws.
as for your question, I guess it is ok to turn 10 blinks and have a good A board.
yes, 6 blinks it should be, but I had this situation too on a 42gt20.
so... with sc2 and sc20 disconnected or the ss power link disconnected, I had 10 blinks. I had this situation with 2 identical A board, and first time I tought that both of them are bad. but... both of them were almost OK, and after fitting a good sc board the tv worked fine (one A board did not have image.).
get a good sc board and maybe sd or su boards if needed, and give it a shot. with A board separated from D board, the tv should start with full white screen. and... maybe if you disconnect sc2, sc20 and the connection between A and D boards... I did not try this, maybe it will go into 7 blinks... I am curious too. Also, I could try something, because I still have some gt20 boards.
and about your question, I guess 10 blinks is ok.
try to check the buffers, to have no shorts between panel outputs and the 4 power screws.
as for your question, I guess it is ok to turn 10 blinks and have a good A board.
Great, so I'm positive that A board is still alive, will now send SC board for repair (got somone in UK and buffers for double check) and cross my fingers when I will have them back. Will report here.
Thanks for your help!
Comment