Is it possible to rig up a power supply type device to test DLP bulbs??
Or would that come under the heading of a Darwin Award??
Thanx
Or would that come under the heading of a Darwin Award??
Thanx
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
10kV starting voltage? Your deathwish...Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search. -
Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Yea, that's what I kinda figured...
Hay, at least I asked first.. Not a TOTAL moron!!
Thanx for the reply...Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
unless you have had training on how to work with high voltages AND currents safely as i have, well, you're putting in a good entry.Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....
"Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me
Excuse me while i do something dangerous
You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.
Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore
Follow the white rabbit.Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
I don't count that as a stupid question. Definitely smart to ask first
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Not a stupid question at all.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Thanx...
Well, my reasoning is that it's such a pain in the arse to take a bulb out of it's holder, put a new bulb in, insert it back into the DLP and then power up to see if it works.. Would be nice if there was a way to determine if a bulb was good or not before going to all the trouble..
Granted, it's a few minute process tops, but gets old after having to do it several times a project...Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Yea, I am the ultimate paranoid when it comes to voltages. I have been zapped a few times, though (obviously) not enough to end my existence..
When it comes to high voltage, I definitely err on the side of cowardice....er caution..
Thanx for the reply...Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
I don't know that much but I thought you could determine if a HLP (high-pressure lamp) was good just by looking at it? The arc terminals wear down as the bulb ages. There is probably some maximum distance before the bulb cannot strike. You could use a low current 10kV source to test this, such as a gas igniting wand.
(The initial 10kV is used to get an arc to form. Once the arc has formed, the voltage drops to a much lower level and the current increases substantially. I heard somewhere 35V @ 6.5A is typical for some HLP lamps though I'm not sure if this applies for DLP HLP lamps.)Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
I'm a Safety First guy too. It must pay off, I ain't dead yet.
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Something to read this weekendComment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
No real difference to the 1600 and 2000W Xenon lamps I used to work with in cinemas...
The UHP (Ultra High Pressure Mercury Vapour lamp) and the Xenon lamps both require about 25Kv to strike and a much lower running voltage--in case of 2000W Xenon, about 23V at 80A
In case of UHP from projector, about 12-15Kv and some 40-80V running.
I'm sure it would be possible to make up a 'lamphouse' for testing bulbs and a 'Ballast' (what in cinema parlance we would call the rectifier,--Igniter for lamp was separate device, in lamphouse) from a defunkt TV or projector.....
Just observe safety when doing it, Make up an earthed steel box with lid with the Ballast inside as well, and mount for lamp/wiring etc, and use the 'Lamp/on' to test. Add a fan in there if you plan on running for more than a few minutes--or the lamp if good, will explode.
--The things produce enough light to leak out of the smallest gaps in the box, so no need for a window, a small 1mm hole is all thats needed.....
Be Careful how you handle ANY projector-lamp. They are NOT called, Ultra High Pressure--for nothing!
Summit like 200 Bar when hot and running, will spoil your whole day if it lets go near you with no protection--like a steel-box!TELEFIX
How PLASMA SCREENS WORK, X-SUS and Y-SUS what they do--
http://www.irf.com/technical-info/appnotes/an-1088.pdf
PLEASE DO NOT EMAIL ME PRIVATELY FOR REPAIR ADVICE. QUESTIONS BELONG ON THE FORUM!Comment
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Whoa dude! 200 Bar is over 2900 PSI! Yeah, I'm gonna give that experiment a pass!
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Re: Rig Up Power Supply To Test DLP Bulbs
Definitely a worthy Darwin Award nomination..
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
I have a 15 - inch Retina MacBook Pro from the mid - 2014 model. Here is the link: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...light=820-3662 . The battery broke some time ago. After I removed the battery and plugged in the original power adapter, the MBP could boot up normally. However, when I checked with IntelPowerGadget, I found that the CPU speed was limited to 0.8 GHz, and it ran very slowly. Later, I found a solution on GitHub. There is an open - source project called cputune that can set the CPU running speed. So I can now run the MBP at full speed. But another problem... -
Hello!
i got a damaged Manson NTP-5561 (60V, 1,6A DC output) and and the main issue is that the controler IC for the LCD display has a short. The controler IC PIC18F87K90 is mounted on the back of the back of the LCD. Vss-Vdd = 3 Ohm. The 5V and 3,3V power line was killed as well, but that is not a problem. A new LDO 3,3V and 5V 7805 is already ordered.
Replacing the PIC18F87K90 is necessary but that makes no sense without having the HEX dump of the new controler.
Does anybody have such a power supply and could do a HEX dump of the Flash and EEPROM memory?
...04-12-2025, 10:38 AM
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