Hey how are you all replacing the as15 chip. Do you use hot air or soldering iron. I'm trying to use my hot air station but for some reason it's not melting the solder paste. It melts it slightly but not into liquid solder. I tried using my iron but kept getting one or two bridges on each side that I couldn't get rid of.
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Replacing as15-f chip
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Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
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http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
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Re: Replacing as15-f chip
it is a P.I.T.A. i have tried this 3 times using both soldering irons and rework station hot air and still had to buy another board taking it off is easy but getting it back on where there are no false contacts after it warms up is incredibly hard. if u figure out the secret please update i would love to know cuz YouTube makes it look so easy and it most definitely isn't
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Re: Replacing as15-f chip
there are a few tricks.
i wouldnt call them secrets.
take the old chip off,
put flux on the board & re-melt the solder so it's all nice & flat.
clean burned flux off.
take "new" chip.
if it's not really new, put flux on the legs and put it down upsidedown.
use the air to flow and flatten any old solder on the legs.
clean the flux after with a soft brush and IPA
now you have a clean chip & pcb.
put the chip on the board and make sure it's straight.
then melt the solder on one of the end pins wih an iron just to hold it in position.
check you got it right and then repeat on the oposite corner.
now paint all around it with flux,
and heat 2 joined sides while gently pressing on the corner with a long thin metal thing with a thermally insulated handle - unless you like burns on your hand!
when the solder melts, the chip should drop onto the pads on that edge.
now get your magnifier and check it's still inline and didnt go off-center.
if it's good then repeat on the other 2 linked sides.
it should now be 100% down and alighned.
if your unhappy with the look of any of the soldering, re-flux it and reflow it in one go using a swirling motion with the air.
like our resident DJ recently said - it's all in the wrist!
now 2 other things.
1: if the chip is large it helps to warm he underside of the board first.
2: clean off the flux once your done - flux absorbs moisture and becomes conductive.
also if the flux uses a thermally activated corrosive agent - some do, then it's gonna stay corrosive after it cools.
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