I have a Hisense 55H6570F that gets the the boot loading screen for android and then shuts down. Oddly I hear a crackle on the mainboard as shown in the picture - nothing looks blown. The tv will boot every time, but when it reaches the loading statge of the anroid logo you can hear crackling on the board and it shuts down. What am I looking for (other than buying a new set) ? Inside the square is where I hear the crackling
-
-
This is a varistor, lift and bend it , you'll see a burn hole, desolder it, retest the tv, if it boots properly replace with same params the component -
yes watching better the prints on the body it has no varistor data, and also pcb says Resistor thermal , anyhow must be turned and watchedComment
-
reboot at android system never being what you are thinking... eMMC or LED BL.. start with BL. cut the cable of LED - and put in filament normal lamp . check if the set remain on.Comment
-
Did you ever get your TV fixed? It's been a few years so you might not even be hanging around anymore.Comment
-
Did not fix. The issue with these sets is the memory chip, as explained, has a lifespan. The only way to repair is to program and install a new mem chip. I found this video which explained the process.He repairs the boards for 200$ +, I sent this tv straight to recycling.
Comment
-
Do not trust blindly videos and opinions, the crackle can say something, if no relays are present it must not produce any suspicious sound, in your photo, remove one leg of the yellow varistor, then re test..Comment
-
I have a Hisense H6570G. It had similar symptoms. It would turn on and get to the Android load screen, and sometimes it would get all the way to the start page, but then it would shut off. If I left it off longer before trying again it would stay on a bit longer before shutting down. The behavior led me to suspect an over heating issue, likely a bad capacitor. I opened it up to diagnose the problem and on visual inspection I noticed two capacitors with bulged tops. The location is circled in red below. The other image includes the caps I removed. They are Jianghai JH CD266 series with values 10 μF, 350 V. Itested them with my LCR meter and got in the neighborhood of 6 pF on one. The other was in the nF range. I didn't have replacements in stock so I ordered them. After I get them replaced I will post the results in case any body else has the same problem.
Attached FilesComment
-
-
You could have given it a chance by fixing the PB stage and then let the tv work, i heard in another place of an Android tv that self restored its bad structure after leaving it on for several hours..Comment
-
It's now a couple of weeks since I replaced those two caps on my HiSense H6570G and it has been working well. Except many of the shows on it are really dumb. I don't know how to fix a TV so that it doesn't play stupid shows. 😉Comment
-
This TV turns on you see the Android logo it loads goes to home screen will stay on the home screen for about 30 seconds to a minute roughly and then clicks the relay on the PSU and shuts off.
It's a q LED and I've tested the LEDs to the best of my ability using the ribbons and an LED tester and they are all 22 volts on all three channels of the ribbon. I do know LEDs failing and cause this issue. I don't think it's this but maybe.
Have disconnected 3/4 on both sides of the ribbon and one half on each side of the ribbon and the entire panel itself. And it does the same... -
Hey everyone,
Working on a macbook A1706, board number 820-00239-A.
When trying to turn it on you hear the chime, but get no image whatsoever, and after about 10-15 sec it'll turn off (monitoring usb amp meter, it goes back to 15v 0a. I'm using a 45W charger btw, can't find my 85W atm).
As far as I can tell all 3V3 an 5V lines come up, up until S0, and then go back to 0V. G3H stays stable at 13V.
Put it under the thermal cam, only L7030 gets a little hot (35c), but nothing out of the ordinary.
Where do I go from this? I'm... -
Hey folks,
I'm not a professional, but I do have a decent amount of knowledge when it comes to electronic repairs.
A friend of mine recently bought a brand new Hisense 75” 4K QLED Smart TV (75E7NQTUK) but unfortunately, he cracked the screen just a few days later. Luckily, he had insurance and got a replacement right away but weirdly enough, the insurance company never asked for the broken unit back.
So, I took it off his hands and figured I'd try to repair it myself rather than see it go to waste. I've been searching for a replacement screen but can't... -
The model is 15ec-1061nm
Board number is DAG3EDMB8D0
SO i turn the laptop on , and as soon as it starts booting from disk, from usb, windows,linux,HBCD,anything i boot it just turns off....while in bios menu or in linux boot menu it stays on normally...It's like when it starts to use graphics it shuts down...But i measured 0.72V while working on the GPU power line,no excess heat is comming from GPU or CPU, i even removed the heatsink and turned the laptop on and everything worked fine, got a bit hot, fan span to full speed, but it worked like that for few minutes in bios...10-29-2024, 12:05 AM -
Hello,
I accidentally changed the project ID in the service menu of my Vidaa Hisense 100U7KQ TV. When I turn on the TV, the screen displays an RGB color cycle (test mode???). I contacted Hisense, and they sent me a usb_MTK_9618.EU.bin file, but it doesn't work. I can see that the USB drive is being read, and it flashes for about 10 minutes (the screen remains in the color cycle during the firmware reading), then the TV turns off and restarts, but still in the color cycle mode.
I want to mention that the 4GB USB is formatted in FAT32 MBR. I've also renamed the file to...
Comment