at this stage stop doing any test and bring all sockets in place... focus on the panel right side... it could be helpful here if you upload clear photos of the panel buffer boards.- you could see a sign of any damage on parts or the boards.
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Originally posted by lotas View PostThey run along the entire length of the panel itself; you also need to remove the black protective strip to get to them.
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Originally posted by Diah View PostPanel buffer boards to reach them had nothings to do with front bezel, just remove the speaker and the cover of the them.
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That's ok I understand. It just takes a while to get that torn down to that point and not a great way to support the TV while I'm doing it, and I am having a hard time finding the time to tear it down that far. I will try.
But I still have one question. And this may just be me not understanding how it works. Why is it that the pins 1-4 on CN202 only have 12v when we tie pin 15 on CN201 to get power form pin 3? Shouldn't those pins get power any time the TV is on? If not, when should we expect those pins on CN202 to have power under normal operation?
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Originally posted by paqman View PostBut I still have one question. And this may just be me not understanding how it works. Why is it that the pins 1-4 on CN202 only have 12v when we tie pin 15 on CN201 to get power form pin 3? Shouldn't those pins get power any time the TV is on? If not, when should we expect those pins on CN202 to have power under normal operation?
reasons why Mainboards didn't send this signal... could be Panel / T-CON / Mainboards self / or LED BL... this why the testing should take different path to know which part exact the fault.
you are private user at home.. its unfair if any one here in this forum just write to you replace this boards or that.. as all cost ยง and it may the fault at other parts.
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Originally posted by Diah View Post
A pic just to display how I had each half disconnected. Thanks again for all your help.
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