Is This Repairable ?

[Dang]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

I've reflowed numerous PS3s, Xboxes etc with a bog standard variable hot air gun giving 100% success rate, although the fix lasted for varying times on each lasting for 2 weeks to 6 months.

The best way is to use a a bit of solder to test the temp, adjust the temp till it starts to melt and then go a tad higher, just a tad though, you'll want to shield all other components in direct contact with the heat from the air gun, so rap with silver foil and seal with kapton tape around the BGA. I have tried an up turned roasting tray covered in silver foil placed over a halogen hob set to low with the PCB on top, this is to try and warm it up helping to stop warping while your heating the BGA, it seems to work but I can't say conclusively.

Now, with a circular motion gently swing the heat gun around the BGA area about 1 inch above, mixing it up with up/down, side to side motions allowing a couple of seconds break every 10 seconds or so, do this for about a minute in total giving a minimum of 15 minutes for cooling down. As I said above, worked every time for me, just don't have the heat too high, it will kill the board.

Flux is a good idea as it allows the solder to "eat" into the contacts but as has been said, if left, it will damage the board so "No Clean" flux can be used but in my experience the fix with the PS3s lasts as just as long with out it as it does if used.

[newtothis]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Few pointers above...

Try masking off as much of the board you are not dealing with on top, leave underside exposed.

set station to 100c high air flow (no attachments)
warm the board underneath and above for 1 minute at a time (nozzle 6" away) for 2 minutes each side.
Apply flux around the BGA... tilt board and blow at the flux on each side so it seeps under the BGA.
Turn air flow to lowest and set at 170c, circular motion over the BGA at 4" distance (do not keep the nozzle pointed at one spot for more than 10 seconds) for 50 seconds
Set air to 220c and heat for 20 seconds
Drop a tiny bit of solder on top of BGA
set air to 230c and heat.... do this until the solder has gone soft (press on it lightly with a knife, Flux should be smoking)
240c for 10 seconds
Drop to 100c and cool for 2 minutes
turn station off and set air to max.... blow until station switches off
Leave to cool

*** If using a station with a diaphragm pump always move the nozzle away when adjusting the temps... the gun will blow hotter as it warms to the correct temp and you could burn the board ***

Clean with IPA and lint free cloth

This is the best you can do with what you have.

i have done this to PS3's, Xbox's, Laptop and PCI-E GPU's. Never had one come back yet!

Good luck

[newtothis]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

I've reflowed numerous PS3s, Xboxes etc with a bog standard variable hot air gun giving 100% success rate, although the fix lasted for varying times on each lasting for 2 weeks to 6 months.

The best way is to use a a bit of solder to test the temp, adjust the temp till it starts to melt and then go a tad higher, just a tad though, you'll want to shield all other components in direct contact with the heat from the air gun, so rap with silver foil and seal with kapton tape around the BGA. I have tried an up turned roasting tray covered in silver foil placed over a halogen hob set to low with the PCB on top, this is to try and warm it up helping to stop warping while your heating the BGA, it seems to work but I can't say conclusively.

Now, with a circular motion gently swing the heat gun around the BGA area about 1 inch above, mixing it up with up/down, side to side motions allowing a couple of seconds break every 10 seconds or so, do this for about a minute in total giving a minimum of 15 minutes for cooling down. As I said above, worked every time for me, just don't have the heat too high, it will kill the board.

Flux is a good idea as it allows the solder to "eat" into the contacts but as has been said, if left, it will damage the board so "No Clean" flux can be used but in my experience the fix with the PS3s lasts as just as long with out it as it does if used.

1"?! Surprised the board didn't popcorn and the BGA die! Also do not remove the heat for breaks, You are trying to keep an even profile of heat and doing this just bounces it up and down... you will get a better reflow in not doing this.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Well I tried tonight but my wand is not getting as hot as it says it should be on the display. So no refow occurred but no harm done either.

I'm going to attempt to calibrate the display with a piece of solder tomorrow to ascertain how far off the reading is.

By the way there is no "Rohs" stamp anywhere on the board. Doesn't every board made to that standard have the mark ?

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Shameless bump for the Rohs question as it determines the melting point/air temp for reflow.

By the way there is no "Rohs" stamp anywhere on the board. Doesn't every board made to that standard have the mark ?

[tom66]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

No it's an optional manufacturer designation.

[Dang]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

1"?! Surprised the board didn't popcorn and the BGA die! Also do not remove the heat for breaks, You are trying to keep an even profile of heat and doing this just bounces it up and down... you will get a better reflow in not doing this.

Yep, it's a DIY fix but for many of us it's the only answer, the use of specialist equipment is either unobtainable or cost prohibitive in having some company do it for you, about £25 and you can do it your self, it's fun too. As to popping a chip, I only did that once, having fixed my son's Xbox 360 twice before(managed to get almost a year in total from the two fixes), I neglected to adjust the temperature and ended up lifting the BGA off the board, I must admit to rushing it so it was definitely a lessen to be more careful but it's the only time and have never done it again, I must of fixed 30 or so by my method above and I know of a PS3 I fixed during the summer still going strong now.

The Halogen hob and tray was a simple experiment, just simply there to try and heat the board from the underside to lesson any warping from using the heat gun, I can't say if it worked for certain but it did no harm at the time. What I do now and hence the short 2 second break, is to use the heat gun to blow hot air over the whole board, especially the underside yet again to try and keep things even, it seems to work or at least it does no harm. It is a DIY fix and so things can and do go wrong, experiment at your peril.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

I'm having a hard time getting the balls to liquefy. So far the best I can do is activate the flux lol. Pathetic. I'm conscious of not having TOO much heat but this is ridiculous.

I was working under the assumption that this chip had balls under the center portion and so was heating that area as well but now I believe the balls are aligned in a few rows at the edges. The chip is rather large (about 40mm x 40mm) so now I will be able to concentrate in the right places only.

Will try again in the morning.

[Dang]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

I'm having a hard time getting the balls to liquefy. So far the best I can do is activate the flux lol. Pathetic. I'm conscious of not having TOO much heat but this is ridiculous.

I was working under the assumption that this chip had balls under the center portion and so was heating that area as well but now I believe the balls are aligned in a few rows at the edges. The chip is rather large (about 40mm x 40mm) so now I will be able to concentrate in the right places only.

Will try again in the morning.

220c to 230c is where you want to be, a bit solder is a good test to see where the temp is.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Solder on top will melt before solder beneath the chip but yeah should indicate you are getting close.

I WILL melt these balls even if I have to throw the board in the fireplace.

[Dang]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Solder on top will melt before solder beneath the chip but yeah should indicate you are getting close.

I WILL melt these balls even if I have to throw the board in the fireplace.

lol, that will probably work.

If you are using a hot air gun, make sure to keep it moving in a circular and up and down, side to side motion, this is to prevent over heating in one particular area and don't be afraid, if the solder melts then you are in the right temperature range, now you have to build up the heat but keep it moving.

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

You can ghetto a preheater from a griddle, a toaster, a sandwich maker... take your pick. I use a toaster to which i've added a control circuit with a triac, optocoupler and potentiometer. Place the board on 4 aluminum foil balls in the corners, to keep it 1-2 cm away from the heating plate.

For a one-off you could just put it on a switched outlet and switch on-off till you reach the proper temperature (150C) at no more than 3C/second, then switch it off at 150C. Or you can use a light dimmer if you have one that's powerful enough. Once the chip is at 150C, take your heat gun and go from there. Thermocouple must sit on top of the chip.

My normal profile is as follows:

• Go from 150C to 217C in 1 minute.
• Stay at 217C for 20-30 seconds.
• Turn the heat up and heat for another 30 seconds. Peak at 240-250C.

Chip should not be over 230C for more than 10-15 seconds.

I've had 100% success rate with this profile, and i've done a few dozen so far... I've fried a few chips before while experimenting with temperatures and times... No casualties with this profile. I do have special BGA nozzles and a stand for my hot air station though.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

This thing would not budge. It needed more heat than my imitation station would put out apparently.

However, it was no match for a heat gun

Cooling down now. Will clean it up and try it in a couple of hours.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

FAIL.

Plugged board back in and symptoms remained even though I know the balls under the chip were molten.

Tried again but this time had a stray ball exit the safety of the underside of the chip. And managed to swing a few surface mount components in the vicinity sideways.

Couple of notes/observations to self: Heat gun makes it impossible to follow any sort of profile. Also a little kapton tape to seal the opening cut for the chip may have prevented stray hot air from unwanted collateral damage.

I think now that I'm in the Bonus Round I'll just pull the chip, maybe try to reball it. Can only learn by doing

Also need to find out why my rework station cant seem to supply enough heat.

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

If it did the same after reflowing, it's pointless trying to reball. Most likely the chip itself is bad. Order a board and call it a day. Of course, feel free to play with this one some more.

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Ya it crossed my mind the chip might be bad but I thought it more likely the hair dryer was making the chip expand and overcome a bad connection underneath.

Replacement board here Monday

[mmartell]

Re: Is This Repairable ?

Mmmm... got me sum Kuro goodness Replacement board did the trick.

Thanks to everybody for their help and guidance.