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The TV's household's AC supply was struck by lightning,Save yourself time and money buy a board... you may need a tuner (main) board as well. good luck
The TV's household's AC supply was struck by lightning,Save yourself time and money buy a board... you may need a tuner (main) board as well. good luck
Well the tv is more of a learning project but def thanks for the heads up.
I have identified some faulty components so far and removed them.
two resistors - open
two mosfets - shorted
blown capacitor - missing lol
fan7930 - paritally melted/broken
4A fuse
One of the resistors is the white square type (cement?) It is marked "3W 0R15K" which confuses me because without the "K" that would be 0.15ohms but is it really 15k ohms ? According to the schematic in post#21 this is a "0.22 2W" resistor so I'm at a loss.
I'm trying to put together a part order so I can move forward. Any help is appreciated!
this is definitely 0.15 ohms / 3 watt and should be replaced by a resistor of the same type. It measures the source current of the mosfet to give a feedback to the pfc controller ic. Don´t forget the bridge rectifier as i mentioned before, replace it even if it measures o.k.
Instead of searching for many replacement parts in the hopes of repairing the board only to find the panel or main defective I've purchased another power supply for a few dollars which is also defective.
However I do get the standby supply and when I heated the board the set came on and functioned normally.
I can no longer force it on with heat so I can't pinpoint the faulty component this way.
I've pulled the PSON pin and measure 5.3v. When connected it is 2v. I believe this line to be active high so I think the main is trying to turn on the PS.
Would really love to learn at the schematic level how to troubleshoot this (schematic in post#21).
PSON (pin12 labelled as "STB") splits off, one to one of the optocouplers and the other not sure where. I *think* the signal turns on both the 5v and 12v lines separately ???
Tell me where to put my probes and what to look for but if you're feeling generous please tell me WHY so I can begin to understand HOW some of these circuits actually work.
LCD PSU's generally have three main sections, The PFC, the STBY-5V and the Main Supplies section.
The PS-on generally activates the Main, and derives the 12 and 24V rails, and any additional 5 or 6V rails depending on the supply. In the case of yours with the BL as part of the PSU, that would be activated too
Often these 'Main' rails are all developed by the same Main section, with its own transformer itself driven by its own MOSFET (S) and control chip....
Check the DC voltage on the main filter cap C810 legs when TV is in standby and when it is turn on. We need to find out if the PFC circuit is working or not.
Check or replace C822, C828, and C830, C809 (for VCC for the PFC IC).
Check the DC voltage on the main filter cap C810 legs when TV is in standby and when it is turn on. We need to find out if the PFC circuit is working or not.
Check or replace C822, C828, and C830, C809 (for VCC for the PFC IC).
budm voltage at main filter cap is 387v. I have checked those capacitors and they look good with my esr meter. Is there a way to look deeper before just replacing caps ?
That is fine, the PFC is working so that means the standby power supply is working right now? I thought you have to heat up the board to get the standby power supply section to come on.
No, standby works fine. When I heated the board the secondary voltages came on and the tv worked as normal. That doesn't seem to work anymore and the caps you suggested check out fine on my meter. What next ?
I did check the voltages across the caps C822, 828 and 830. C828 and C830 had 16-17v on them. C822 had under a volt so the FAN7620 is not receiving vcc ?
"C822 had under a volt so the FAN7620 is not receiving vcc" That cannot be since that is the VCC for running the IC N801 (FAN7602B) for the standby 5V and the switched 5V and the switched 12V, otherwise you will not have standby voltage right now and you will not be getting the voltages at C822, 828 and 830.
"When I heated the board the secondary voltages came on and the tv worked as normal" Which voltages are those? the switched 5V and the switched 12V?
So right now the condition is, you do have PFC voltage (387VDC as reported) but no switched 5V or switched 12V. The switched 5V is controlled by the switched 12V, if 12V does not turn on then there will be no bias to turn on MOSFET V813 for the switched 5V. Check C841.
I will just preface all this by saying that I have a fairly technical background but have never attempted SMD electronics diagnostics and repair before, I really like the idea and want to learn.
I have a MacBook Pro late 2016 that died maybe four years ago. Over the course of 30 seconds, it got slower and stuttered, until it froze for a second and died. No click from the trackpad anymore, nothing. I started getting interested in electronics repair and decided to give it a shot, so I opened it, removed the battery (one cell was puffy), took out the motherboard and experimented with...
There is a motherboard Gigabyte H610M S2H V2 (DDR5), I can't find boardview
Help to identify the element, marking on the element - C31PH. It stands next to the USB 3.0 and it looks like it is ESD Protect chip. We need a datasheet to this element. Maybe someone has already identified such an element. Help please.
I've got this circuit that I've been playing with on a breadboard. I'm not happy with it mainly because the MOSFET gets too hot and generally controlling the temp of the heating element with the Arduino has proven to be a little more cumbersome than I would like.
What I would like to know, is what is the best way to set up a circuit like this? The heating element is just a PCB and its going to be mounted under a 3D-printed enclosure that a lizard will use to warm his belly.
I was Ollie today which is a close out / surplus outlet store I do not go in there to often because you find things that you should not be tempted by but that is a another story
I saw a small space heater that used a wire type of heater element which I been looking for a while but not really hard mind you but when I saw this I grabbed it I going to go back tomorrow and buy the last one that is like the one I bought today because I need the heater element and the ceramic insulators and more of heat element wire because this one has two different wattage settings one 1300 watts ( tap...
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