I also advise against any wandering probes - I already did that once myself.
The resultant fireworks may give a good adrenaline rush but they are brief and expensive compared to contemporary gunpowder types and not really worth the lasting headache.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Well I'm not sure what to make of that test. I had the lamps disconnected as it's the only way I can get to the bottom of the board.
With a voltage reading about 1.3v on the 5v line I switched the probe over to AMPs and switched the meter into the amp range as well.
I was reading 0.00 so I switched to mA scale and now it would read a peak that varied (max about 125ma) but would settle to zero in a matter of seconds. Could only get a reading by removing one of the probes and retouching. Always returned to zero soon thereafter.
OK, I would solder the wires to the S and D, connect everything back together, turn on the TV, then short the two wires together to simulate MOSFET on condition, if the switched 5V is OK, then the TV should function, then you will know that the MOSFET is bad.
That switched 5V must be sequenced on after the 12V is on, otherwise they would not have designed the circuit that way. If you leave the wires connected, the switched 5V will always be present even when the TV is turned off.
Actually it has no problems with the on/off sequence as it is now, but if you're saying it could damage something down the road I will swap out the mosfet.
You need to make it turns on after the 12V is on, we do not want the surprise later and I do not think it is good idea to have the switched 5V be on all the time, they have it turned off when in standby for reason.
Thanks for the feedback. That was fast, you have the MOSFET in stock? Started on Nov 2013, fixed in May 2014, I am glad you did not give up on it.
Also really to have thanks newtothis for providing the SCH, otherwise we may not have gotten this far.
Well I let it sit for a long while until I bought this power supply instead of attempting to fix the train wreck that the original one was. Thanks again and here's a pic of the landfill "escapee"
I'm working on this exact board, looking to replace C810, C834, and C808. The schematic shows different specs than the capacitors physically on the board - does that matter?
For example, C810 is on the schematic as 220uF/450V and what's physically on the board is 150uF/450V.
The TV used to work just fine, and these look to me to be the original caps. Should I follow the schematic or just replace what's there?
There is a motherboard Gigabyte H610M S2H V2 (DDR5), I can't find boardview
Help to identify the element, marking on the element - C31PH. It stands next to the USB 3.0 and it looks like it is ESD Protect chip. We need a datasheet to this element. Maybe someone has already identified such an element. Help please.
I've got this circuit that I've been playing with on a breadboard. I'm not happy with it mainly because the MOSFET gets too hot and generally controlling the temp of the heating element with the Arduino has proven to be a little more cumbersome than I would like.
What I would like to know, is what is the best way to set up a circuit like this? The heating element is just a PCB and its going to be mounted under a 3D-printed enclosure that a lizard will use to warm his belly.
I was Ollie today which is a close out / surplus outlet store I do not go in there to often because you find things that you should not be tempted by but that is a another story
I saw a small space heater that used a wire type of heater element which I been looking for a while but not really hard mind you but when I saw this I grabbed it I going to go back tomorrow and buy the last one that is like the one I bought today because I need the heater element and the ceramic insulators and more of heat element wire because this one has two different wattage settings one 1300 watts ( tap...
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HISENSE 65E7KQ PRO
RSAG7.820.13512 - chassis
MT9618BAATAB - cpu
RSAG7.820.12059 - power
HD650Y3U77 - panel
KLM8G1GETF - emmc
The TV does not turn on, the standby indicator is on. All voltages are present.
Emms is dead. Not readable, not detected.
Replaced emmc.
But with another dump there is no launch
Terminal log
UART
<
AC_ON
RPMB key is not yet programmed
HASH1_VERSION=0x00000000 64bit
E-B
FDE enabled
layout pattern onebin by SAR7,0...
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