14 blinks TC-P50ST30

[hrdcoretexan]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

My apologies for the AT&T reference, as it's country-specific. AT&T provides service for my TV (IPTV), Internet, and telephone. I attached a picture of the network box that's on the back of my house. It has a cable connecting it to the breaker box. The signal comes in from the network box through two bonded-pair copper wires, into a gateway (modem/router combo), out a coax cable, into a set top box next to the TV, and then into the TV via an HDMI cable.

I figured it was probably a coincidence that the TV went out at the same time the tech was here, but I had to wonder.

ModuslinkPTS may have revised their prices after you inquired. I'm seeing the same price ($85.58) for both models (TNPA5349AB and TNPA5349AD).

The Panasonic repair tech training manual doesn't include instructions for replacing boards, and I haven't removed the back cover on my TV. Does removing the SN board only involve removing screws and disconnecting cables, or is soldering required?

Last night, I read this entire thread. If I remember correctly, isolating the problem to the SN board required using a multimeter, because the blink codes can indicate that other boards (A board or P board) are the problem
, when they actually aren't. I have a cheap multimeter, which I've never used. I can read up and learn how to use it. Do you think it will be sufficient to correctly identify the problem?

Thank you for your advice!

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

My apologies for the AT&T reference, as it's country-specific. AT&T provides service for my TV (IPTV), Internet, and telephone. I attached a picture of the network box that's on the back of my house. It has a cable connecting it to the breaker box. The signal comes in from the network box through two bonded-pair copper wires, into a gateway (modem/router combo), out a coax cable, into a set top box next to the TV, and then into the TV via an HDMI cable.

I figured it was probably a coincidence that the TV went out at the same time the tech was here, but I had to wonder.

ModuslinkPTS may have revised their prices after you inquired. I'm seeing the same price ($85.58) for both models (TNPA5349AB and TNPA5349AD).

The Panasonic repair tech training manual doesn't include instructions for replacing boards, and I haven't removed the back cover on my TV. Does removing the SN board only involve removing screws and disconnecting cables, or is soldering required?

Last night, I read this entire thread. If I remember correctly, isolating the problem to the SN board required using a multimeter, because the blink codes can indicate that other boards (A board or P board) are the problem
, when they actually aren't. I have a cheap multimeter, which I've never used. I can read up and learn how to use it. Do you think it will be sufficient to correctly identify the problem?

Thank you for your advice!

that's hilarious, I'll have to check it out and the TNPA5081 prices. they also had some wrong info which they acknowledged and hope fully fixed.
wow, i can't believe my single email just saved everyone a lot of money. maybe they have decided to have a closer look as for anyone who knows how to fix these would agree the price should be about the same. they probably watch /are members of badcaps.

i do believe what hey are doing is great and the prices are pretty good. try and find some of these boards and $$ used.

I'll be back soon. It's a piece of cake. you just need a star screwdriver.

the only thing though, we should isolate and prove it's SN board and the panel ribbons. Not impossible but fiddly, if you're ham fisted and rough though they can get damaged and tear.

A service manual would be a good start.

The Modus response only came an hour or 2 ago so maybe they have discussed it and made a good decision.

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

If the stand is part of the chassis you can remove all screws on the back panel safely and the tV will stay supported. I stop at 2010 models so I can't be sure about 2011 but the training guid should have some good pics to work itout. Just remember if you lift the Tv to move it the stand will fall out. I usually remove all the screws, remove the panel and put the stand bolts back in through the mount for safety.

I guess I'll have to put my money where my mouth is and try and help isolate the fault with you.

If you haver a meter and it can test continuity or measure ohms that's a safe way to start. if we can find a dead short on the Vsus line then we should not need to power this up to see what blinks we can get.

If we can't find a short then we will have to. I don't know if the SS goes in these. I'll try my best or there could be someone out here who's fixed the 42" But SN would be on my checklist first.

When you remove the screws, look at what they are and where. most will be self tapping bit some I expect will be metal thread. You don't want to start forcing a self tapper into a tapped thread and stuff it because the metal thread will not screw in once the thread is damaged.

Around the A board or mainboard area where all the inputs are there will be some small screws and bolts , HDMI ports are usually anchored. I'll have a dig for a manual and upload it.

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

post a photo of the meter you have so i can see what ranges it has.

No soldering, just screws, clips and latches. I don't think you should try board repair, not worth it for the cost Modus charge. You could remove the board and see if a tech will fit it. I would not expect any wty and they may not be interested if they don't do the job start to finish. You can only ask or maybe you know someone who is handy doing this kind of stuff?

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Probably should have started a new thread since yours is 42" model but here's the manual.

Really not sure about the stand, if in doubt, find a large flat surface (dining table or equivalent) lay a towel to give some cushion and avoid scratches, and work on it . if the stand can be fixed to it do so and then work on it upright.

I've never broken a screen doing this. So long as there are no sudden impacts or shocks laying it down or any pressure on the panel from underneath it should be fine. some models had a protective glass front but hey deleted this from2010 on in some cases. So the front of the Tv is the actual panel.

don't lean on any part of the panel chassis from behind either . If it twists or flexes, the panel can crack. Not that I've done it but a lapse in concentration or just being aware and bad things can happen.

it's after midnight here and looks like you've gone offline, might hae to pick this up some other time or there a few blokes that are good with the panasonics that could help.

[hrdcoretexan]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

I attached a picture of my multimeter. Will it do the trick?

I can't work on my TV tonight, but hope to pull the back off sometime tomorrow.

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Should be able to get somewhere with it. I'm hoping for something real obvious like a dead short across SN2 pins. Time difference my be a nuisance for me. 1pm Tuesday to your 1030pm Monday. I'll be at work when it tea time for you or tonight for me but early morning for you which is not ideal as most would be going to work.

If we don't hook up, take the back of, locate the SN2 connector and set the meter in diode . measure across the 2 pins, if it reads like 0 or 0. xxx then change meter to resistance, go mid range and see what value. If your meter goes 1, means out of range.

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Hello, I have a P50S30 that is not quite three years old yet, here is the background:

About a week ago it started having an issue where the screen flickered in an odd way, especially before the set got warm. It's hard to explain the flicker, it's like the colors would fade out in certain parts of the screen. Well yesterday my wife goes upstairs for a few minutes with the TV on and comes back down and the screen is black. Power LED is on but won't respond to anything. After pulling power and holding down the power button we got 14 blinks.

I found this thread and have read through, so I'm hoping with your help maybe I can fix this myself. Here is what I have done so far:

• Checked the resistance on the SC2 connector pins. Resistance is .6 ohms so doesn't look like there is a short there.
• Disconnected SC2 and SC20 connections and powered on. Got 8 blinks.
• Disconnected SC2, P35, SS11, and all A board ribbons and tried to power on. Got nothing at all. This seems to be different than the other poster, he got a solid LED. Guessing either he didn't list all right connections or my issue is different enough to cause that?

This is all I could see to try for now. I'm still thinking it's probably a bad SC board but I'd like to be more sure before ordering. Are there any other tests I can perform to verify?

I also uploaded a picture of my SC board, if that helps.

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Hello, I have a P50S30 that is not quite three years old yet, here is the background:

About a week ago it started having an issue where the screen flickered in an odd way, especially before the set got warm. It's hard to explain the flicker, it's like the colors would fade out in certain parts of the screen. Well yesterday my wife goes upstairs for a few minutes with the TV on and comes back down and the screen is black. Power LED is on but won't respond to anything. After pulling power and holding down the power button we got 14 blinks.

I found this thread and have read through, so I'm hoping with your help maybe I can fix this myself. Here is what I have done so far:

• Checked the resistance on the SC2 connector pins. Resistance is .6 ohms so doesn't look like there is a short there.
• Disconnected SC2 and SC20 connections and powered on. Got 8 blinks.
• Disconnected SC2, P35, SS11, and all A board ribbons and tried to power on. Got nothing at all. This seems to be different than the other poster, he got a solid LED. Guessing either he didn't list all right connections or my issue is different enough to cause that?

This is all I could see to try for now. I'm still thinking it's probably a bad SC board but I'd like to be more sure before ordering. Are there any other tests I can perform to verify?

I also uploaded a picture of my SC board, if that helps.

Sometimes the power on or front panel is routed via one of those ribbons to the A board. Without checking I hazard a guess why that test did nothing. I would say you've proven the SC is bad and would be the cause of your issues. Since you had intermittent issues may also very well been loose screws(bad earthing)for the board which has been reported.

So i'd head down the path of getting a SC or get repaired at Moduslink PTS, do the Sd/SU buffer board checks for shorts before installing as they if shorte d can blow a Sc board too.

maybe check the screws, there are new kits available and also check the mountings on the SS, can't hurt to play safe and have a look.

If looking for a board check the revision of yours, each size has a variation of the same board. Most likely there is a white sticker with 5351 and xx after for the version, if no suffix then it's just the board number (no suffix). Don't go purely by the screen print of the board as that is the blank PCB number, can be configured a variety of ways.

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Ok, here is what I have found. I downloaded the Training manual, and performed the procedure on slides 71 and 72. No matter what I get a short on both TPSC1 and VF-5V. Slide indicates that means bad SC board. I then went ahead and did the buffer board pin tests you asked for. Disconnected all connections between SC and the SU/SD boards, plus the ribbon between SU/SD. I got a short on all pins on the SU41 and SD42 connectors. Is that what's expected? I wasn't expecting that so I started questioning if I was doing it wrong. However I get continuity just fine between two grounding screws so my multimeter seems to be working fine.

The label on my SC board starts with 5351AM. Thoughts?

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Ok, here is what I have found. I downloaded the Training manual, and performed the procedure on slides 71 and 72. No matter what I get a short on both TPSC1 and VF-5V. Slide indicates that means bad SC board. I then went ahead and did the buffer board pin tests you asked for. Disconnected all connections between SC and the SU/SD boards, plus the ribbon between SU/SD. I got a short on all pins on the SU41 and SD42 connectors. Is that what's expected? I wasn't expecting that so I started questioning if I was doing it wrong. However I get continuity just fine between two grounding screws so my multimeter seems to be working fine.

The label on my SC board starts with 5351AM. Thoughts?

"I got a short on all pins on the SU41 and SD42 connectors. Is that what's expected? "

All pins? can you expand on this? there's 9 pins, are you saying all 9 pins when referenced to the vfo-gnd that's the metal pads the bolts hold these board are all dead short? That's a bit unusual. If a board was bad I'd expect Vfo to be bad usually dead short

These are the pinouts,

based on my 2010 as a guide.

Vfo I'd expect 1.8meg or more
Vscn-f around 221K
Vf5V inthe Meg could be high like over 5meg

SD42


pins
1 Vfo
2 Vscn-f
6 VF5V

SU41

2 VF5V
6 Vscn-f
8 VF5V

I've had one 2010 FHD model with top and bottom boards shorted and the Sc. That was the TV I did not check and they killed a brand new board.

If in doubt replace them but you should be able to work out if bad or not.

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Well it turns out some of my newbness with my multimeter was showing. I had it set on 200 ohm. Unfortunately it caps out at 2000k which I'm assuming would be 2 Meg. At that setting I was able to see one of each connector start with a resistance in the low 100s k and then increase until it went above 2000k and off scale. I was expecting to be able to see the 221k one you mentioned but that one showed off scale all the time. I am supposed to be testing the pins on the sd and SU side, correct? Maybe I have a crappy multimeter...

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Well it turns out some of my newbness with my multimeter was showing. I had it set on 200 ohm. Unfortunately it caps out at 2000k which I'm assuming would be 2 Meg. At that setting I was able to see one of each connector start with a resistance in the low 100s k and then increase until it went above 2000k and off scale. I was expecting to be able to see the 221k one you mentioned but that one showed off scale all the time. I am supposed to be testing the pins on the sd and SU side, correct? Maybe I have a crappy multimeter...

yeah it's always tricky trying to guide someone with cheap meter and lack of experience, not making fun of you just requires a bit of work to be sure we get valid results.

You should be able to measure the 220k, try reversing the probes but if it start high and continues out of range it's not shorted or low ohms and that's the main thing.

If you're going to do this work from time to time a good auto ranging meter like a fluke is like a lifetime tool if taken care of. Always good to have, with solid results. I'm sure there'd be plenty of others I just know fluke.

If it went o 2meg and OL then I'd claim that as a pass

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

There's a number of ways of checking, this way and a quick continuity check for short between gnd and outputs of the buffer ribbon connectors. either way a detected short is dead board.

Low resistance also bad but I've given you what's typical it look s like it may be ok.

Sc is bad, you rechecked that too with the fluke?

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Set meter to 2000k and number 2 pin on sd42 is still off scale high, so not sure what's going on there. SC2 connection shows zero resistance across its pins. Should I check each pin to ground as well? I also measured resistance of TPSC1 and VF-5V again, no matter what connections between boards I am reading 137k on TPSC1 and 2.66k on VF-5V. Slides don't say what normal is, so I'm not sure.

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Went ahead and tested every pin on SU41 with my meter which tops out at 2 meg. Tested against ground.

SU41

1 - 9 are all off high

SD42

1-9 are all off high as well, although 6 started in the low hundreds k and ticket up over 2000 and off scale.

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

I think the lightbulb has gone off that what my mind was thinking for "short circuit" was actually the opposite. SC2 has had zero resistance across its pins since the first time I checked but for some reason my brain was thinking a "short circuit" was infinite resistance. ugh

So reading back I think you're saying if SC2 is shorted that's a sure sign of a dead SC, so I guess that's confirmed. Should I be shopping for a better meter to determine if the SU\SD boards are bad too?

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

Set meter to 2000k and number 2 pin on sd42 is still off scale high, so not sure what's going on there. SC2 connection shows zero resistance across its pins. Should I check each pin to ground as well? I also measured resistance of TPSC1 and VF-5V again, no matter what connections between boards I am reading 137k on TPSC1 and 2.66k on VF-5V. Slides don't say what normal is, so I'm not sure.

1. The SC is blown, move on

2. Set the meter to diode or whatever has the beeper

On each buffer board, isolated. Place one probe on the gnd plate vfg, slide the other across the numerous output pins at the panel ribbon connectors.

If you have constant beep = short or low ohms

Maybe your meter just is not up to this task but it appears nothing is shorted so i would not worry if it just read high resistance.

If you know someone with a better meter try that. It's possible these boards react different at those points.

i can't help much more at this point.

[tw2005]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

I think the lightbulb has gone off that what my mind was thinking for "short circuit" was actually the opposite. SC2 has had zero resistance across its pins since the first time I checked but for some reason my brain was thinking a "short circuit" was infinite resistance. ugh

So reading back I think you're saying if SC2 is shorted that's a sure sign of a dead SC, so I guess that's confirmed. Should I be shopping for a better meter to determine if the SU\SD boards are bad too?

just check for low resistance or shorts on any of those checkpoints and the gnd to outputs at the panel connectors.

report back

By the time you buy a meter it may be just as easy to get buffer boards but would be useful tool whenever you want to fault find.

Know anyone that could help you? 2nd opinion

[macnbaish]

Re: 14 blinks TC-P50ST30

My crappy meter doesn't even have a continuity buzzer, but I ran down all the buffer ribbons with it set to 2000k and it never budged off of of scale high so that looks good to me. I see Shop Jimmy is out of the 5351AM replacement boards so I guess modus link is where to go next. I appreciate all the help, sorry for my brain farts there. Oh, and I'm now on the lookout for a nicer multimeter.