Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

[Xaqman]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

re the codes:
Ok, that's what I was about to assume, but thought I should try to nail that down first, thanks!
I'm gonna try to replace just that SIC cap for $4, and see how it goes. If that fails, I'll order the electrolytic caps for $12 or so and swap them out, too.

[Xaqman]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

re codes:
Ok, that's what I was about to assume, but thought I should try to nail it down, first.

I'm going to try replacing just the SIC cap, first.

Thanks, and I'll post the results.

[Xaqman]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Ok, that fixed it! Total cost, with shipping, around $7. Thanks for the great resource here, folks!

[budm]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Thanks for the follow-up.

[tech2014]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Hey I have a Samsung LN32C450 tv with the same power board and fault. I measured across the same area on the video and I get about 31V, should be 24v. I removed the CM808 cap and it measures 2nf rather then 18nf. I assume the lower capacitance is the reason for my voltages being wrong. My 13v line is 16v and 24v is over 30v. Where do I find this cap?

[marshal1550]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Hi,

I got the same problem on one of my customer's TV and by replacing the CM808(.018uf=18nf 630v) capacitor it repaired.

Cheers

[Black Betty]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Any idea why I would have 10v coming out of A5V(pin 16 on CN802) of the PSU when disconnected from the main board? Everything else seems pretty good. 24v at all channels on CN803 going to the inverter. Backlight does not come on with main board disconnected. Red led is on and unblinking. I'm not sure why the really big 450v cap is burying the needle of my multimeter at 500v but maybe that's normal.

[vinceroger69]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

what meter are you using firstly try a new battery in the meter then carfully check the dc voltage across both leads of the main capacitor again, be really carefull as your testing the hot side of the psu and this carries high voltages.

[Black Betty]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Wow, I think you nailed it on the faulty meter. I grabbed another one( they are the super cheap non-digital ones) and the main cap checks out at around 400v. Now I'm getting readings that make more sense for a diagnosis. At CM851 and CM852 I'm getting around 11v each which is supposed to mean CM808 is bad, right?

[anibal2100]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Just to share my experience with this issue (red light and no power on). I replaced the IC FSFR-1700 and CM808 with no luck. Replacing RM802 and CM813 (frequency control) got it running ramdomly, but at least I knew that the new IC was working. (I suspected that the new IC could be bad) anyway this wasn't a solution. To make a long story short, after a lot of testing, finally noticed that the new IC was FSFR-1700 while the original IC was FSFR-1700US. So I re-install the original to give it a try and Voila! The TV has being working fine. The problem was just the capacitor C808. I replaced both IC and capacitor because they come in a "kit". Hope this help someone and save many hours of work and frustration. Cheers !

[vinceroger69]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Just to share my experience with this issue (red light and no power on). I replaced the IC FSFR-1700 and CM808 with no luck. Replacing RM802 and CM813 (frequency control) got it running ramdomly, but at least I knew that the new IC was working. (I suspected that the new IC could be bad) anyway this wasn't a solution. To make a long story short, after a lot of testing, finally noticed that the new IC was FSFR-1700 while the original IC was FSFR-1700US. So I re-install the original to give it a try and Voila! The TV has being working fine. The problem was just the capacitor C808. I replaced both IC and capacitor because they come in a "kit". Hope this help someone and save many hours of work and frustration. Cheers !

Thankyou for the update and im glad you managed too get your tv working.

[nitz]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

I'm reading you all have had symptoms at some point, my power board have the same components, it's a UN40EH6030, I thought I had a faulty power button/receiver at first because when I smacked the power button it suddenly worked for a couple of weeks until there was a minor power outage, then the led now blinks, then stops.

Reading the voltages while the led is blinking it's like the TV is power cycling, all the voltages go up to the normal values then drop to a very low voltage depending on the line and goes back up.

Powering up the power board by itself without the mainboard shows steady voltages on all lines and has no problem to keep the LCD panel up, I've taken all the capacitors off and measured them, they're all fine.

Have tried to bypass the power button and I get a weird result, the LCD turns on steady for a few seconds, I hear a clicking noise then the LCD flickers but the TV doesn't boot. The clicking noise seems to be coming from around the ICM801.

Only abnormality I have found is the T-Con chip heating up quite a lot but I heard it's normal - or not.

[didyman]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Hello guys!

I just came here by a google search. I have a BN4400339B. Wich is way different, but shares some similarities. It also had the nasty just power off, then after restart, or not, red LED lit, or not problem, after a total resoldering run, it lasted three months, then started again having this problem and having not on the test table... After these relentless hours spent, replacing FSFR1700U and the SIC capacitor (both of them are OK, capacitance is within 5 %, but for sure, i replaced it with a Wima FKP 1600 V rated one and still wonder, how SIC was able to put it in this size with rated 1250 V..), all caps are OK by means of capacitance and ESR and..still had the problem. Then, i got a bit different reason. There is a TL431...yes, the one sitting near the resonant controller, its reference is ICM803. This piece of tiny junk makes the FSFR's low voltage supply switch's base current sink and sometimes it can't sink enough current, leading to too low supply voltage for the FSFR. Now i got it. Replaced it. And have a working TV set. There was also a not typical problem with the PS_On, the corresponding optocoupler's LED hasn't got its current, because its series resistor has some contact problem.
Hope, that will help someone having this kind of problem. I can't even tell how much cases i had those TL431 as the reason behind a problem and so now another one.

[ZeroPage]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

Hi everyone, this is my first post i hope it helps

I have been working on the same problem. Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only. this is how i fixed it. on the power supply board BN44-00338B i replaced "ICM801 FSFR-1700US" and "CM808 630V 18nF". Before repair i measured 11v on 24v output(PIN 14 OF CN803) and 5.4 v on 13v output(pin 17 of cn802) and the 5v output(PIN 14 OF CN802) was correct. It has now been working for 1 week 23/7 (not a typo, i put 23) turning it off for about 15 min. a few times a day. there are people selling these parts as a kit on ebay just search the power supply model number.

I know this is a very old thread, but I have a total noob question. On the power supply, I have it out on my work table. Do I jump the PS-ON pin to ground or to 5 volts? Do I need to put a resistor in in line on the jumper wire and if so, what value resistor. The power supply Model number is BN44-00338B. When I disconnect the main board I do not get a back light.

I am tacking my question to this thread because I am having the same problem, standby light but no power up.

[nomoresonys]

Re: Samsung LN32C540 - Standby Light only.

put one from A5v to ps on, one from A5v to blu on, and try it, if the backlights don't come up also try putting one from the one marked pwm to A5v and try it, see if the backlights come on and stay on, the resistors are for safety in case you get something wrong, not strictly needed but a good idea, try 1k ohm resistors. Can also check for proper voltages with the jumpers/resistors in place and the board powered up on the bench, one way is while on the bench, connect the cable back up to the powerboard and carefully trace the wires out to the end and rig up the jumpers on that end.