Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

There has to be DCV feeding the board for it to run. Those integrated LCD -T-CON is just not made to be repaired, I hate them, but that cost cutting for you. You an also check on the main board side to see if any of them have 12VDC on the pins.
Do you have the LCD panel model number?
Are you sure your does not have T-CON?
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...?sort=3&page=1

http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsear...?q=ln32b360c5d

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

Positive there is no T-Con. I closed the TV up for the night so I will open it tomorrow and post the screen model.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

So I took the screen apart and I did not like what I found. Seems to be a greasy dirt all over the circuits for the screen, Pictures attached. The fourth picture is the circuit with the greasy dirt and the last picture is after I cleaned it. So I am assuming the screen is bad but because so many others are experiencing the same problem I am going to attempt to fix it anyway.

The panel model number is V315B5 - L01 Rev. C1

So after cleaning it and putting it back together I still have the same problem. So now I got to wait for the EEPROM to get here and see if that fixes it.

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

Check the for 12V, FUSE, CAP. It looks bad, may be the moisture got inside since the boards are on the bottom side of the screen instead of on top side of the screen so when people clean the screen, the cleaner got inside.
I doubt that the EEPROM will fix the problem.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

Well the fuse is good and the cap is not shorted but looking at the cap with a magnifier it looks cracked in 3 places. Any idea how I can switch it out? Can I replace it with one that looks identical because I do not know how to determine the value on these? The 12v spot on the board is reading 13v

Also there is a voltage regulator outlined in the picture that has no output. With the 3 legs facing down the right leg has 1.8v, the center 0v, and the left leg has 2.5v

Also I have another TV that turns off when it gets hot. If I keep a fan on it it stays on. There is a ceramic resistor on the power supply that gets so hot it will burn you if you touch it. 522 12K 5W. Is it normal for it to get this hot or is it bad?

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

The cap is probably 10uF 25V filter cap, for testing, you can solder in lytic caps for now (correct polarity of course).
The regulator sounds like a 1.8V regulator.
There are more switching supplies on the board, see that black round inductor with '100' printed on top, that is part of the switching power supply, there are more than one of those circuits on the board.
You can also check the DCV on the test points, for example 'VS11' 1.1V?, 'VDD18' (1.8V) which you should check.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

VS11 is 0V and VDD18 is 1.8v
After replacing the cap there is no difference.
At the two power switching supplies I have 2.6v and 13v.
I am about to say the panel is toast.

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

VS11 is 0V and VDD18 is 1.8v
After replacing the cap there is no difference.
At the two power switching supplies I have 2.6v and 13v.
I am about to say the panel is toast.

Yes. There should be VGH (>20V), VGL, VCom, etc. for example:
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...0f68dd9e00.pdf

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

The chip on my board is a ( TPS65161 98T ) http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps65161.pdf
The max ouput from this chip is 13v and I am guessing that is not from the chip. If I am reading the PDF file correctly I guess I am suppose to get 20v to 32v somehwere on the chip but I am not. I do Have 2.6v and 13v on a few of the legs. I wonder if replacing this chip will fix it?

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

You can take a chance on it since there is nothing to loose at this point. I wonder if tab bondings between the LCD glass panel to the rigid PCB are OK.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

WOW, Success! I replaced that cap with a lytic and that didn't make a difference and then I replaced it with a SM same size and color but I also replaced the TPS65161 because I had PCB boards from cracked screens that I saved and presto, the TV turns on! But the ribbon cables going to the screen are loose so now I got lines everywhere. I play with the ribbon cables and the lines move and change color. But to me it is a success because now I know why the TV would not turn on. So I have successfully fixed the TV even though it has a bad panel. The TPS65161 chips are on eBay fairly cheap.

I wonder how easy it could be to reconnect the ribbon cables. Not really worth my time but the skill may be useful in the future.

So after changing the TPS65161 chip my voltages are different almost everywhere. The VS11 was 0V but now it reads 1v and VDD18 was 1.8v but now reads 0v. The TPS65161 chip still has no higher than 13v on it but it is working.

[newtothis]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

That greasy dirt looks like flux to me.

Reconnecting tab bonds... No go I am afraid

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

The greasy dirt most definitely not flux, in fact it was on the screen and in the frame of the screen, lots and lots of it. As far as the tab bonds I did have some success. It seems that pressing them with my soldering iron made them reconnect. I got back 3/4 of the screen. How are the tabs connected? Are they glued on or pressed with heat?

[newtothis]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

The greasy dirt most definitely not flux, in fact it was on the screen and in the frame of the screen, lots and lots of it. As far as the tab bonds I did have some success. It seems that pressing them with my soldering iron made them reconnect. I got back 3/4 of the screen. How are the tabs connected? Are they glued on or pressed with heat?

Urgh.. Nice!

Ultrasonic I do believe.... VERY VERY expensive machinery

One of these : http://www.made-in-china.com/showroo...xNBpUXSYX.html

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

OH, WOW! So it is possible to fix. So it makes sense that the heat from my iron almost fixed the screen. Very very interesting. I am thinking of a heated clamp because if you heat it you wouldn't want to remove the clamp until it cooled down.

Well I cut the PCB board off the screen and removed the good parts from the TV. I feel good that Budm helped me figure out what was wrong. Doesn't matter that the TV will never work again but its remains will help another TV, LOL. This was a learning experience for me and definitely will be helpful to the next person who reads this thread and maybe their TV will live again.

[newtothis]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

I know heat itself can kill a panel very very quickly, There is a certain bonding agent needed too for the connections and the machine bonds it in some way or another (I did read up on it but forgot as its pretty useless to know as won't ever get a machine)

[budm]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

OK, it is not a total lost after all and you and I get to learn more stuff about integrated T-CON.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

I got 3 other TVs that have bad tab bonds and it shouldn't be a surprise that they are all Sony. I have an idea how to make a clamp, heat it, and then let it cool. I also have a 60" that only one half of the screen works so maybe I can fix that as well. I still can not figure out how to start a new thread on this web site.

[Blagus]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

Hi. Sorry to revive old thread but I got here when searching for BN44-0289A.

I tried everything mentioned here: disconnecting CN802, grounding FB and pulling B high to trick the comparator, pulling Inv_On and E-PWM high, but nothing helps to keep the backlight on for more than one second. Also, there's no DP805 on 0289A at all so I'm stuck here.

[Shane711]

Re: Samsung 32" ln32b360c5d

Hi. Sorry to revive old thread but I got here when searching for BN44-0289A.

I tried everything mentioned here: disconnecting CN802, grounding FB and pulling B high to trick the comparator, pulling Inv_On and E-PWM high, but nothing helps to keep the backlight on for more than one second. Also, there's no DP805 on 0289A at all so I'm stuck here.

Did you check to see if your lamps are burnt?