I have tried 2 different soldering irons, a copper wick and solder pump and still can't get my cap off. Solder is flush with board but can't remove the last part stuck between the board. Any ideas before I ruin the board holding the soldering iron on too long?
After you plug in your iron and it heats up for a good 5 minutes, just add some fresh solder to the capacitor legs. This will greatly improve the heat transfer from the iron's tip to the solder on the PCB. Then use above method to "walk" or "rock" the capacitor out.
You can put the new capacitor in the same way again. But first, it would probably be very helpful to clear the holes on the board a little bit. I use a sewing needle or one of those poster/board tacks. The hole doesn't have to be completely clear. Just making indentations where the capacitor should go is good enough. If you don't fully clear the holes on the board, however, then I suggest you pre-cut the capacitor leads before installing it on the board.
Well I would like to thank everyone who chimed in with possible solutions. I was finally able to get that cap #126 out and replaced it. TV works like a charm again. Can't believe TV repair shop told me $275.00 to fix because the PSU was shot as well as the video board.
Hair dryer is one of my important tool, people that do not have experience laugh at me when I told them to use hair dryer to heat up the caps, they thought I was joking.
Same for me, can't count how many times I've narrowed down a fault with hairdryer and freeze spray.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Well it looks like I jumped the gun a little. Replaced Cap #126 and everything was fine, started right up. Put TV back together and back in the house. Sat for about a week in my house. Went to hook up a Wii station for the kids while I watch the Championship games today. Plugged TV in and red light comes on, turn it on and green light comes on then reverts back to flashing red light and dims out loosing all the power after about 10 seconds. Could that Cap #126 be bad or is there some other problem I need to look into. Haven't taken TV back apart yet.
Yes, I returned that one to Fry's and went to an electronic store and got another one and put it on. Don't remember the name of that one but I guess it was just as bad or could it be something else?
Ordering all new capacitors from Digi-Key. They are a mixed lot of Panasonic and Nichocan, however 2 of them are 16v 1000uf made by Vishay BC (it's they only ones they have in this size). Should I not get those 2 and order them from somewhere else? I checked Badcaps.net and they don't sell them either. I also checked Hobbymods and they have everything my Nichocan but don't carry the 10v 100uf.
I would hate to have to have 2 different orders and pay shipping twice.
Ordering all new capacitors from Digi-Key. They are a mixed lot of Panasonic and Nichocan, however 2 of them are 16v 1000uf made by Vishay BC (it's they only ones they have in this size). Should I not get those 2 and order them from somewhere else? I checked Badcaps.net and they don't sell them either. I also checked Hobbymods and they have everything my Nichocan but don't carry the 10v 100uf.
I would hate to have to have 2 different orders and pay shipping twice.
the 10v 100uf cap,you could replace with a 16v if you have more chance of getting it from same supplier,just make sure it fits!
fixed so far...376 lg lcd tv's,24 onn tv;s,24 panasonic lcd,16 jvc lcd,12 marshall jcm800 amps,refurb of various disco equipment lighting,old style disco decks ,and a flymo!
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please let us know if everything works ok if your tv gets fixed, as it will be and aid for anyone else having the same problem and wishing to fix it.it would save people clogging up this site with topics that are duplicated,and can be found easily using the search function.,and taking up valuable space.enjoy your fixed tv!,hopefully!
Hi, new member here. I have this 32LX1D also. It's been making a loud clicking sound for awhile now. It's maybe 6 clicks per second. Recently, my Yamaha a/v receiver died and it turned out to be a bad regulator. At that point I realized it could be the PSU in the TV going bad that caused that. More recently I've noticed the clicking sound corresponds with flickering in light bulbs on the same circuit.
I took the TV apart and the clicking only happens with video input. It's coming from either the gigantocap or something within less then an inch of it. None of the other capacitors appear damaged. I have 5V on ST5.0V, the rail measures 9.3 kOhm, and the voltage across gigantocap is 162V but that was without inputs or outputs to the PSU, just AC (if it makes a difference).
Secondly, not that I want to troubleshoot this, but just as a point of reference I bought a new PSU board for the TV. It worked great for 10 minutes with no clicking sound, but when I turned up the volume kind of loud on my repaired Yamaha, the TV shut off and will not turn back on. The red light turns to green and it flashes a few times before resetting and doing that continuously. This PSU measures 4.5V on ST5.0V, and also has 9.3 kOhms on the rail with 162V across gigantocap.
I switched back to the original PSU and it still works, just with loud clicking that causes my light bulbs to flicker and is probably damaging my Yamaha again.
Can anyone please offer some suggestions? I'm guessing it has to be on the primary side of the PSU since it's having an effect on my other electrical devices. I wonder if switching the gigantocap between the two PSU's would fix everything. Thanks!
You should check the Voltage at the AC outlet to see how much it drops down when you turn up your volume on the YAMAHA. if you can not play the music loud without dropping the Voltage then you should check out your house wiring. You can also use heater or hair dryer to see how much the AC drops down at the outlets.
The DC Voltage on the main cap at standby is 165~170V and should jump up to >360V when TV is turned on due to the fact that the PFC Voltage will kick in when PS_ON is received from the main board.
How are the caps on the old and the replacement boards?
Thanks budm. The caps on both boards are visually ok, but that's all I can say about them. I checked the PFC cap on both boards, and each one measured 162V with just AC, and were upwards of 400V with the TV connected to the PSU. When the TV is on, the voltage is up and down like sawtooth, 0 to 500+ V. In any case, I now think the clicking sound might be coming from the PFC transformer and not the cap. I'm talking about the transformer circled in your post #20 picture.
Which device would make such a clicking sound? It's seriously just about the same period as this Usually after an hour or so of the TV being on, the clicking will stop. At this point my light bulbs stop flickering. It seems to all come down to the clicking. I might be able to post a video with sound if you think that would help.
The caps on both boards are visually ok, but that's all I can say about them.
If your power supply looks anything like the pictures posted on page 1 of this thread, chances are you have SamWha or some other equally inferior caps. Moreover, the power supply appears to be working fine other than the clicking noise when cold, so this seems to support the idea of bad caps present.
I suggest you change the startup caps for ST5.0V first. It's been a while since I last looked at this thread (and much more the schematics that were posted), but the APFC primary side circuitry is likely supplied with power from the auxiliary winding of the ST5.0V power supply. So a standby start-up cap replacement is highly recommended.
Better yet, if you are going to pay for shipping for a single cap or two from Mouser or Digikey, you might as well order caps for the rest of the power supply. I usually suggest to exclude the big HV cap from that purchase list, but since this power supply appears to make unusual noises from the APFC circuit, this cap may also be going bad. I can't say for sure because I don't know how bad SamWha high voltage caps are. If this was CapXon or Samxon, I would suggest a replacement no doubt. Since those big high voltage caps tend to be expensive ($3-5), I'll say use your judgment based on your budget.
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