Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
I really didn't want to start yet another thread on this bunk TV, so I figured I'd post here on the most recent and closely related. Regarding the power supply.
So I have the exact same TV and I've been looking over the service manual. All the caps I compared to the service manual's Recommended/replacement parts list, and the ones one the actual board seem to match up correctly as far as uf, V, and size are concerned...except one. It's a big fat Lelon.
On the actual PSU board it's
Lelon LSG
220uf
450V
D 35mm x H 30mm
In the service manual, the spare part list says it should be
180uf
450 V
D 30mm x H 31mm
Besides the fact that it's a Lelon cap, could this be the root of all our problems?
Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
1) Circled in red is what I think is your power mosfet. Circled in blue is your bridge rectifier. Check both of them for shorts.
2) For the power mosfet, number the pins 1, 2, and 3. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3. Any reading under 30 ohms suggests a short and must be desoldered and retested out of circuit.
3) For the bridge rectifier, number the pins 1, 2, 3, and 4. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, and 3-4. Any reading under 30 ohms suggests a short and must be desoldered and retested out of circuit.
4) I noticed you didn't replace ALL the electrolytic caps on the power board. I see green Lelon and possible more small Capxon caps.Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
This set has featured on here before service manual is here:
Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
Chassis number of this TV so we can look up the service manual for it?Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
Post clear focused top down view pictures of all your boards (both sides) following the instructions in my sig file in post #2 EXACTLY.Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
fuse popped as soon as power was turned on to surge protector. i have two more replacements and no ideas, will somebody help me? there is one mofset chip that is not giving me signs of continutiy on any of the 3 pins is there a way to test these?Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
thanks for the reply! i lost my debit card so i haven't ordered the parts yet but i am just going to order the diodes you said with the fuse and just replace i will post with the results laterLeave a comment:
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
1) My own opionion on this particular model is that there are multiple problems with it. I don't have this model, but helped enough people to know the problems.
i) The first is obviously all the Capxon crap quality caps on both the power and main/logic board that die under heat.
ii) This TV runs temperature hot.
iii) The zener diodes are prone to dying causing the SMPS power supply not to come on. You can check them as per instructions on the other multiple threads.
2) I would order 2 or 3 fuses just in case.
3) The cap replacements you chose are fine.
4) Sometime fuses go open due to heat, stress, and/or fatigue.Last edited by retiredcaps; 02-23-2012, 05:50 PM.Leave a comment:
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Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse
Hello this is my first post on BadCaps but not my first visit. About 2 months ago i would go to power on my tv it would stay on for seconds then turn off, (red led turn to green back to flashing then solid red and was also squealing before this occurred) searched and found this site to help me with the bad caps on power board. The bad caps were 3 capXon 1500uF35v c951, c952, c953 and capXon 2200uF16v c955. I replaced them with the panasonic equals from thread "Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU"
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12409-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12409-ND
Ordered, soldered and tv started right up. the other day i was watching and whole tv powered down and there was no led red nor green so i opened it up there were no bloated caps on power board or burn marks. So I opened the scaler board case, which i didn't do last time, and found c218, c812, and c807 all capXon 1000uF25v bloated spewing black gunk, c113 capXon 220uF25v, c131 capXon 470 uF25v bloated as well. c830 is same as c113 but not bloated but also replaced.
Here is where i may have messed up instead of coming here i got on digikey and searched here is what i ordered
3 of http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P11223-ND
1 of http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P10275-ND
2 of http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12383-ND
they are all bigger than the original ones that need replacing. i did order
these all 3000hr at temp instead of 2000. Thinking that it was just the lifetime of the part that made it bigger i installed them connected everything and plugged it in, nothing changed. so i checked the fuse http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...2666-ND/777438 and it is bad. My questions are, did i order and install wrong parts causing the fuse to go bad? Are the parts good parts and fuse just went out? If that what caused the fuse to go bad in the first place? i was in the middle of a show when tv went off, no power out, or surge just, off. sorry no camera now but trying. Pictures on https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...2PFL5432D%2F37 seem identical. checked inverter boards and they don't have bloated caps. i don't know what else to look for but i went to the local electronic shop took the power board to see if they had any fuses asked him if anything else looked bad to him and he said no that everything looked fine to him but the fuse was definitely bad and he didn't have none. Here now with my order on hold thinking that i might need more parts. Can any body help me? Here is the type of multimeter i have just in case. Velleman Dvm-850Bl 3 1/2 DMM 10A Digital MultimeterTags: None
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