Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

[tw1ztid]

I have a Phillips 42PFL5432D/37. I have had no prior experience with this sort of thing.

When I plug it in and turn it on it lets out a single odd chirp, then repeats the chirping sound at a high frequency. The power LED on the front stays lit up and GREEN. It continues until I hit the power button on the TV again.

There were 3 visibly bad capacitors, and a 4th that did not look bad.
I found a place that sold Panasonic brand online and actually had them in stock and ordered all 4 to be replaced in case the 4th was bad as well. I just replaced them with tutorials and such throughout badcaps and youtube. The Chirping is still there.

Capacitors I ordered:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?SKU=74R3419
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?SKU=74R3454




I cannot tell exactly where the chirping is coming from, seems around the group of 3 capacitors.. I tried the "cold spray" in case that would really help but it did nothing with helping me locate the source.

Underneath there are a couple spots that have a brownish crispiness that can be scratched away kind of, doesn't look like a burn mark that i've seen picture of but not 100% sure.. They are around soldering points. Could this be the problem?


I've uploaded various pictures, if there is anything else I need to supply please let me know. I also have pictures with the old caps that were bad..
You can see the crusty looking spots in one of the close-ups. It is on all of the soldering points for that lond thin tall silver thing with what looks like a chip and plastic on the inner side, and It resembles a heatsink.

Thank you! This is bugging me not being able to figure this out, spent hours on this making sure everything has been done properly and researching.

edit: The first picture/diagram of the whole case IS for my exact model. It was actually posted by PlainBill iirc, I figured it would be fine since it has been doublechecked to be for the same model and looks the same as my tv.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

When I plug it in and turn it on it lets out a single odd chirp, then repeats the chirping sound at a high frequency. The power LED on the front stays lit up and GREEN. It continues until I hit the power button on the TV again.

1) If you hookup a dvd player, do you get a picture?

2) Do the backlights come on?

3) The chirping could be due to a small cap that has gone bad. Smaller caps rarely bloat so you can't tell by looking at it.

Underneath there are a couple spots that have a brownish crispiness that can be scratched away kind of, doesn't look like a burn mark that i've seen picture of but not 100% sure.. They are around soldering points. Could this be the problem?

4) That is solder flux left over from the manufacturing process. It won't cause your TV not to work, but you should use isopropyl alcohol to wipe that away as flux can be corrosive.

5) Do you have a multimeter? Are you experienced in using it?

6) We will likely need pictures of your inverter boards (master and slave). Thet are found near the edges of your TV underneath the metal shielding (follow the red and black cables).

[Mr Bill]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Take a real close look at the two diodes i put the box around. My cousin has a philips 37PFL5332D/37 that died. The 3 caps were bloated. We changed them and the tv started chirping. The light on the front lit up solid just like you describe but we didn't get a display. The chirp noise was a first long screech followed by shorter chirps until we turned it off. The noise was also coming from the transformer area next to the 2 diodes.

The 2 diodes are the same and from your picture the one closest to the transformer looks different compared to the other on right next to it.

If you can post a good zoom in of that area and if you have a multimeter check them to see if they are open/shorted.

Once we replaced the 2 diodes the tv fired to life and has been working solid ever since.

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

1) If you hookup a dvd player, do you get a picture?
I don't have a DVD player.. been using a old box tv with built in one.. I'll try to dig out the ps2 to test. The guy who gave it to me said it wouldn't work at all for him but we'll see.

2) Do the backlights come on?
Not that I can see

3) The chirping could be due to a small cap that has gone bad. Smaller caps rarely bloat so you can't tell by looking at it.
I recall seeing some smaller caps, i'll check them out and order them when I get the chance.


4) That is solder flux left over from the manufacturing process. It won't cause your TV not to work, but you should use isopropyl alcohol to wipe that away as flux can be corrosive.
Thanks i'll pick some up when I get the chance, it bothers me knowing it's there.

5) Do you have a multimeter? Are you experienced in using it?
I don't have a multi-meter or any experience with one.


6) We will likely need pictures of your inverter boards (master and slave). Thet are found near the edges of your TV underneath the metal shielding (follow the red and black cables).
Uploading

Edit "Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing."
It was just working last night. Going to try through URL

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Take a real close look at the two diodes i put the box around. My cousin has a philips 37PFL5332D/37 that died. The 3 caps were bloated. We changed them and the tv started chirping. The light on the front lit up solid just like you describe but we didn't get a display. The chirp noise was a first long screech followed by shorter chirps until we turned it off. The noise was also coming from the transformer area next to the 2 diodes.

The 2 diodes are the same and from your picture the one closest to the transformer looks different compared to the other on right next to it.

If you can post a good zoom in of that area and if you have a multimeter check them to see if they are open/shorted.

Once we replaced the 2 diodes the tv fired to life and has been working solid ever since.

That sounds identical to my problem! Maybe it is just a simple diode. I'm uploading some more images close-up, and including some of the other areas.
I'm going to have to buy a multimeter for this when I get paid because I can't visually see anything wrong.

[Mr Bill]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

That sounds identical to my problem! Maybe it is just a simple diode. I'm uploading some more images close-up, and including some of the other areas.
I'm going to have to buy a multimeter for this when I get paid because I can't visually see anything wrong.

Just make sure it has a diode check function for it. I'm sure even the cheapest multimeters should have that function. I pulled up my photos from my cousins power supply and the 2 diodes we changed we ZD902 & ZD904

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Just make sure it has a diode check function for it. I'm sure even the cheapest multimeters should have that function. I pulled up my photos from my cousins power supply and the 2 diodes we changed we ZD902 & ZD904

Thanks, a ton. I have a feeling this will be the fix. I'll update when possible.

[Mr Bill]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Thanks, a ton. I have a feeling this will be the fix. I'll update when possible.

If you want to do it blindly (though i don't recommend). We went to radio shack and got a 3 pack of diodes (276-1114). Swapped them out and the tv worked. If this does work get the numbers off the actual diodes so we can help you get the correct one. Also, try to not damage the 2 originals removing them if possible so if this doesn't work you can atleast put them back in the board.

And make sure the new diodes are put back the exact same way. There should be an arrow under the diode on the board. The gray stripe goes to in the direction of the arrow.

[tom66]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Make sure to use a 600V rated PIV diode or higher. Like 1N4007. Probably has to be fast recovery so FR4007 would be better.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

I don't have a multi-meter or any experience with one.

There are 2 SMD fuses on each inverter board for a total of 4. If they are open (bad), then your backlight won't turn on.

If you don't have money, try to borrow a multimeter from someone to test the fuse and diodes as Mr Bill as pointed out.

If you live close to a Wal-Mart, they have this multimeter

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-3300...meter/14644665

for $12.

Or if you prefer ebay, this one is $10 + free shiping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150668723235

Both are beginner multimeters, but will do the job required for your purposes.

My personal choice would be the Uni-T. PS. I have no affiliation or experience with the seller.

[tom66]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Doesn't Harbor Freight sell one for something like $3? I dunno, all we have got here is Maplin and they have their own Mastech meter for about £5 which I used for about a year or so, it served me well. For anything other than mains testing, I would use one... wouldn't trust it near mains though.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Doesn't Harbor Freight sell one for something like $3?

They sometimes have it for $2 in store with a coupon, but I think regular price is more like $10 + $6.99 shipping. I never had this particular model, but my own experience with the cheap brittle plastic 830 variations has convinced me not promote such garbage to newbies.

For you and me, we understand the limitations of these 830 variations and they are useful in certain circumstances.

The UNI-T UT33D has some decent reviews on eevblog.com.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=5023.0

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Thanks everybody, i'm looking for someone who happens to have one. I don't want to have to wait a week to purchase one. Looks like i'm going to need a Multimeter for sure to continue fixing this lcd tv. I'll start looking for FR4007 600v+ diodes. I'm having fun with all this, reminds me of when I first started learning about building pc's, only a bit more technical.

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

So i should have a multimeter in a few hours to check the fuses and diodes.

[tom66]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

FR4007 is 1kV not 600V, but any fast 1000V or 800V silicon diode should be fine. Don't get a standard 1N4007; it's nowhere near fast enough.

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

FR4007 is 1kV not 600V, but any fast 1000V or 800V silicon diode should be fine. Don't get a standard 1N4007; it's nowhere near fast enough.

Gotcha


Any recommendations on a video teaching me how to use this thing correctly?

Or will this do, with same basic idea for fuses..
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop...i_X7Ew3Y&gl=US

[retiredcaps]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

Any recommendations on a video teaching me how to use this thing correctly?

If you mean multimeter, afrotechmods makes great videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

If you mean multimeter, afrotechmods makes great videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU

That's perfect. Looks like i'll be checking continuity. Will be back to report in.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

I don't recommend checking fuses with the continuity feature. Multimeters vary with respect to what they consider "continuous". Some cheap multimeters beep "continuous" for any resistance measurement under 1800 ohms. No fuse is good when the reading is that high.

A good fuse should measure less than 1.0 ohms.

[tw1ztid]

Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture

I don't recommend checking fuses with the continuity feature. Multimeters vary with respect to what they consider "continuous". Some cheap multimeters beep "continuous" for any resistance measurement under 1800okohms. No fuse is good when the reading is that high.

A good fuse should measure less than 1.0 ohms.

Ok. Continuity is fine to test the diodes though? Be nice to not to have to remove diodes unless its the right ones if possible.