Well I finally finished the two recapping project on the soldering / desoldering stations one that has the sleep feature and one that does not have this feature and have them both working again both of them have 24 volt cooling fans the vacuum / cooling fan motors board has been modified so that the cooling fan sees the full 18 volt power supply and the vacuum pump see the two ohm resistance to limit current
Putting these desoldering stations back together is enough to drive you to start drinking if you normally do not drink first of all you have to put thing back together in a certain order in order to be able to put the unit back together because there is very little space for your hands or fingers to hold the nuts to hold the vacuum pump and the metal plate that holds the vacuum pump motor from moving around but to make matters worse is that there is a hose that is under the vacuum pump that has to be on top of the metal plate but the metal plate wants to be on top of hose so the screws that holds the metal plate to the enclosure just cause you to go mad and throw it across the room but once get through that nightmare then you have to contend with all of the wires from both switching power supplies that have a mind and do not want to corporate with you at all to put the metal enclosure on the switching power supplies is another nightmare because the heat sink “L” shaped metal also has a “U” shape turned on it side and taps on the metal enclosure that all have to line up for it to go together and stay in place
This is the reason I have not recapped these soldering / desoldering stations when I first got them because I did the first couple of them and came to the conclusion that I will take my chances with the switchers going bad by the startup capacitor going bad also some versions of these switching power supply boards are some of the worst to deal with because the soldering traces come off of the board very easily because on one of them I had to use the capacitor leads to repair the traces that just pealed off the board in two different places so that was not fun either
Now it is time to finish the battery testing machine that I have that the mosfets board went bad I just purchased another EBD-A20H battery load tester that only does load testing it does not have charging function on it
The reason for buying another was I want to put the two battery tester that the mosfets board went bad which has an external switching power supply to share the same switching power supply which will be a 12 volt @ 5 amp Mean-well switching power supply which will probably be used at the same time with two different battery packs being tested at the same time because the power supply for the charging system will be separate from the battery controller power supply yes I know that they share a common ground so that means that you would have to have the same voltage on each battery pack which is not a problem because the charging system will be using a buck converter to control the voltage and current to each battery pack that have BMS protection boards on them this is what I was talking about in another post about doing Milwaukee and Ryobi battery testing battery packs that are having issues so I can determine weather or not it is a battery issue or a BMS protection issue because even where I work I have to check the functionality of battery packs that we have for battery operated power tools to determine weather or not it would be better to just buy new battery packs to replace the ones that are having issues
Now the battery / switching power supply load testing machine that I just bought I am going to make a jig that will be used to test switching power supply over a period of time under different loads circumstances and conditions to determine weather or not the switching power supply are worth a shit or not
The reason for this particular project is that I right now do not have an easy way to test switching power supply and torcher test them with a bar graph which I can use the battery testing software for this purpose as well I just have to make the jig for it for easy access to o hook it up
Stay for more to come in its own post and I will give some more detail information on how I will be using it and what the parameters that I will be using
Here is a picture of the battery tester that I have just purchased another one the same exact model which I have exchanged the enclosure that has the switching power supply inside of it the original switching power supply is a 24 volt I replaced it with a 12 volt version of the same exact size of the original switching power supply board
Putting these desoldering stations back together is enough to drive you to start drinking if you normally do not drink first of all you have to put thing back together in a certain order in order to be able to put the unit back together because there is very little space for your hands or fingers to hold the nuts to hold the vacuum pump and the metal plate that holds the vacuum pump motor from moving around but to make matters worse is that there is a hose that is under the vacuum pump that has to be on top of the metal plate but the metal plate wants to be on top of hose so the screws that holds the metal plate to the enclosure just cause you to go mad and throw it across the room but once get through that nightmare then you have to contend with all of the wires from both switching power supplies that have a mind and do not want to corporate with you at all to put the metal enclosure on the switching power supplies is another nightmare because the heat sink “L” shaped metal also has a “U” shape turned on it side and taps on the metal enclosure that all have to line up for it to go together and stay in place
This is the reason I have not recapped these soldering / desoldering stations when I first got them because I did the first couple of them and came to the conclusion that I will take my chances with the switchers going bad by the startup capacitor going bad also some versions of these switching power supply boards are some of the worst to deal with because the soldering traces come off of the board very easily because on one of them I had to use the capacitor leads to repair the traces that just pealed off the board in two different places so that was not fun either
Now it is time to finish the battery testing machine that I have that the mosfets board went bad I just purchased another EBD-A20H battery load tester that only does load testing it does not have charging function on it
The reason for buying another was I want to put the two battery tester that the mosfets board went bad which has an external switching power supply to share the same switching power supply which will be a 12 volt @ 5 amp Mean-well switching power supply which will probably be used at the same time with two different battery packs being tested at the same time because the power supply for the charging system will be separate from the battery controller power supply yes I know that they share a common ground so that means that you would have to have the same voltage on each battery pack which is not a problem because the charging system will be using a buck converter to control the voltage and current to each battery pack that have BMS protection boards on them this is what I was talking about in another post about doing Milwaukee and Ryobi battery testing battery packs that are having issues so I can determine weather or not it is a battery issue or a BMS protection issue because even where I work I have to check the functionality of battery packs that we have for battery operated power tools to determine weather or not it would be better to just buy new battery packs to replace the ones that are having issues
Now the battery / switching power supply load testing machine that I just bought I am going to make a jig that will be used to test switching power supply over a period of time under different loads circumstances and conditions to determine weather or not the switching power supply are worth a shit or not
The reason for this particular project is that I right now do not have an easy way to test switching power supply and torcher test them with a bar graph which I can use the battery testing software for this purpose as well I just have to make the jig for it for easy access to o hook it up
Stay for more to come in its own post and I will give some more detail information on how I will be using it and what the parameters that I will be using
Here is a picture of the battery tester that I have just purchased another one the same exact model which I have exchanged the enclosure that has the switching power supply inside of it the original switching power supply is a 24 volt I replaced it with a 12 volt version of the same exact size of the original switching power supply board
I figured there has to be some reason for why you do things a certain way. I've got quite a few battery operated power tools with batteries various brands, but have to have yet a battery completely fail. The older battery packs aren't as good as the new ones (18650 vs 21700 etc). Some older ones started to act weird when not being charged fully a few times in a row so the balance charge cannot kick in. But after discharging them and fully charging, they came out fine again. I think what really does them in is after a full charge, using them hard down (almost) the end and then do not recharge them that day, plus a hot environment.
Comment