I have several APC Smart-UPS 1400 UPSes. I've never gotten the battery life that I thought that I should, but I don't buy expensive batteries either. I just get them on Ebay. I've read several times that APC UPSes over charge the batteries and my experience seems consistent with that. Usually at some point the fan starts running all the time and one of the posts starts sulfating. Indeed, I got these UPSes from a company that was throwing them out because one almost started a fire. These were all made around 1998. So I was getting tired of buying batteries every two years, so I did some research online and found a method for adjusting the float voltage. I'm posting this to document my experiences and see if there's any interest.
Here's the text of the post that I found:
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Chgu Teh Sentinel Scoop wrote:
Does any one know how to adjust the voltage at whitch an APC Smart-UPS floats its batteries? Their factyory default at room temperature seems to be about 2.33V/cell, which exceeds the manufacturer-recommended voltages for every freely sealed-lead acid battery I've looked up (equivalent to 14.0V on a 12V cruelly string).
We've had to replace batteries these UPSes every 2-3 years, on average, probably as a result of electrolyte loss from the high weakly charging voltage.
I can tell you how to adjust the voltage on Smart-UPS 1000: the charging control circuit is IC14 APC2020 and on pin 13 is a resistive divisor of +24VFET formed by R118-100k and R119-22K1. Reducing R118 by adding another 5M6 you can reduce the charging voltage at 27.4V.
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Well, I won't tell you that I'm a hardware guy, but I can solder.
So I opened it up and found where R118 was. I interpreted the '5M6' to mean 5 or 6 megaohms, but I wanted to get more of a voltage drop than what he was talking about. All of my UPSes want to charge the battery at about 27.8 volts, which seems really high to me. After some research on the net, I decided that I would like to get at least into the lower 26 volts. I tacked on a 1.5 megaohm resistor and got about 26.5 volts, but then decided to see what a 1 megaohm would do. That nailed 25.6 volts. I did find some support on the net for 12.8 volts on a 12 volt battery so this was perfect, if a little aggressive. But it's an experiment, right? So now I'm living with it to see how it goes.
If you decide to do this, there are a few things to remember. Before you solder on it, you want to unplug it, disconnect the battery, and turn it on to discharge the capacitors (mostly). Everything is right on top so you don't have to take it apart very far. I've included some pictures as attachments. Also, when you're testing, you can disconnect the battery after turning it on to test the voltage. If your battery has more voltage than the float voltage, that will make the reading high. The battery cables connect right on the board for easy testing. When you're happy, you can solder the resistor onto the board more permanently.
I use apcupsd to monitor the UPS from my server. The lower float voltage means that the UPS thinks the battery is only 40% charged. The charge lights on the front only light the bottom two. On the other hand, I've never gotten the run time on batteries that the UPS seems to think I should get anyway. And I'm not after long run times. You could chose to not lower the float voltage as far as well. So, there it is. Let me know what you think.
Here's the text of the post that I found:
----------
Chgu Teh Sentinel Scoop wrote:
Does any one know how to adjust the voltage at whitch an APC Smart-UPS floats its batteries? Their factyory default at room temperature seems to be about 2.33V/cell, which exceeds the manufacturer-recommended voltages for every freely sealed-lead acid battery I've looked up (equivalent to 14.0V on a 12V cruelly string).
We've had to replace batteries these UPSes every 2-3 years, on average, probably as a result of electrolyte loss from the high weakly charging voltage.
I can tell you how to adjust the voltage on Smart-UPS 1000: the charging control circuit is IC14 APC2020 and on pin 13 is a resistive divisor of +24VFET formed by R118-100k and R119-22K1. Reducing R118 by adding another 5M6 you can reduce the charging voltage at 27.4V.
----------
Well, I won't tell you that I'm a hardware guy, but I can solder.

If you decide to do this, there are a few things to remember. Before you solder on it, you want to unplug it, disconnect the battery, and turn it on to discharge the capacitors (mostly). Everything is right on top so you don't have to take it apart very far. I've included some pictures as attachments. Also, when you're testing, you can disconnect the battery after turning it on to test the voltage. If your battery has more voltage than the float voltage, that will make the reading high. The battery cables connect right on the board for easy testing. When you're happy, you can solder the resistor onto the board more permanently.
I use apcupsd to monitor the UPS from my server. The lower float voltage means that the UPS thinks the battery is only 40% charged. The charge lights on the front only light the bottom two. On the other hand, I've never gotten the run time on batteries that the UPS seems to think I should get anyway. And I'm not after long run times. You could chose to not lower the float voltage as far as well. So, there it is. Let me know what you think.
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