CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

[budm]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

When testing the battery, you need to put load on it, battery with no load can show normal Voltage. Get 12V car lamp, I.E. #1157, and hook it up to see if it will even light up the lamp.
What is the charging Voltage you are getting on the RED & Black cables that go to the batteries?

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I decided to work on my second unit. I took it apart and looked at the board, no visible damage that could be seen with the eye. I tried the new batteries in my second unit and without AC power, turning the unit on lit the LCD and power button up blue but there was no words on the LCD.

Plugging the unit into AC power, plugging in a fan into the battery side, allows the fan to run but when unplugging the unit from AC, the battery backup does not kick in and says overloaded on the LCD with battery at 0% and the fan turns off. A constant beep is going off the whole time.

I took the batteries out and tested them with a meter and each battery by itself reads 6v and together they read 12v, which I assume means they are working fine. They'd better anyways since they are brand new.

There must be something wrong with the board on the second unit too but I hate to ruin another board trying to solder on new parts.

EDIT:: I included a macro photo of the back of the circuit board for the above unit #1. I tested for continuity with a multimeter and everything had continuity except for 1 location. That location is on the Viper22 chip, starting from the bottom right hand side of the photo, the second one (not the first one) does not have continuity (no beeps). Macro shots reveal how badly of a solderer I am (tips based on my work are welcome!) and I need a static free brush to clean my work area on the board.

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Well, I have damaged my circuit board, as I knew I would. I should hang up my iron before I hurt any more boards.

I had to turn up my soldering iron to 450 instead of 350 in order to desolder the parts off the board because the solder did not want to melt. The solder wick did not want to suck up the solder either. Somehow I managed to break free a pad from the board for the Viper22. It didn't come off all the way and I managed to put it back but I knew it wouldn't work.

After putting everything back together, I plugged it in and it started working. I could run a fan off the battery backup after unplugging it from AC power and letting it run on battery. However, the LCD reading on the screen showed the battery was not fully charged, so I left it plugged in to AC letting it charge. 2 nights went by and now the unit won't power the fan any more, even with it plugged into AC power. The voltage doesn't read 120 but 100 when first turned on and then begins to drop.

Is the board junk? If not, is there anything I can test with a multimeter to see what is going on? Possibly the fuses? Bad soldering by this old fool? Any help from you experts would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Thanks, I knew there were a lot of people using the Hakko when I bought it years back but I was soldering like a plumber with bad solder and acid flux which gave me poor results. I was also using too high of temperature. My hands also shake a lot, so that doesn't help. After watching hours of good informative videos and purchasing real solder and flux I think I'm ready to do much better.

Great tip on cutting the pins on the chip, I saw this done in a video too.

I was going to put some heatsinks on the viper's but after some reading, people seemed to think the thermal glue would come loose from the high heat and come free and might cause some sparks inside the UPS unit.

Thanks for the helpful tips jetadm123!

[jetadm123]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Your existing work station should be fine for the job. Since you're going to replace the viper22 anyway, instead of trying to remove it as one whole unit, just cut through each pin with a pair of sharp diagonal wire cutters. Then simply remove each soldered pin individually. If you're having trouble melting the solder, then apply some fresh solder to the joint. Use some desoldering braid (wick) to soak up the excess solder.

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Thank you for the information Behemot, I appreciate it. I don't look forward to replacing capacitors or anything requiring soldering as even though I have done it before, I am not very good at it. It looks like C3 and C6 need replacing as well as the Viper. C1 looks fine but I should probably replace it also as others have had problems with it. Are there any others that you would replace? I hope not, it's going to be a chore for me to replace the ones I have. I found a Viper at DigiKey, https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...4-5-ND/1852690. I've only ever replaced capacitors before, never these multi-pronged things.

I have a Hakko FX888-23BY (knob version) soldering station and am looking into upgrading my equipment for the new task at hand. What would be a good tip to use with this soldering station as the default tip I have hasn't been working out too well for me. I'm also getting new soldering wire and flux as the stuff I have isn't really suited to circuit boards and that may have been why I struggled to solder stuff in the past.

Links:
https://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-D...dp/B0019V5MAC/
https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Diamet...dp/B01N0VNNKO/
https://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Paste-F...dp/B008ZIV85A/

Thanks for the valuable information this forum has provided for this task, I hope others find my photos and posts helpful in the future also.

References:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic...omment=7825195

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Most likely were toasted and as it cooled down for the time it was offline, when you plugged it to electricity with not fully charged accumulators, they got loaded and overheated rapidly, relasing pressure and gases.

If you have similar units than refurbish all of them otherwise you'll run into same situation. I know very well why I refubish EVERYTHING before putting it out - most of the HW there these days is such a crap you have to always upgrade it before you give it to somebody again.

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I have a 7 year old Cyber Power 1350AVRLCD UPS. It was time to replace the batteries so I bought 2x PSH-1280F2 and replaced them inside the unit. I turned the unit on, it started beeping like normal. I turned it off and decided to plug it in and let it charge so I could see if it was going to work. As soon as I plugged it into the wall, puffs of smoke came from the unit and I unplugged it and took it outside.

After opening the unit I saw 2 bad caps. It looks like the same caps that are being referenced here. I was told this was a good choice of battery to replace the old ones with, so was this the batteries fault? There shouldn't have been any surge from the AC current. Were the caps bad to begin with before I changed batteries?

I don't know if I should waste money trying to fix the caps or try to send the batteries back and forget it. I have another unit to replace batteries in and a second set of batteries on back order and now I'm wondering if I should try and cancel the order. Things just don't seem to work out simple and easy anymore. I've replaced caps before but it's not my favorite thing to do.

If the batteries are not at fault, maybe it's a good idea to replace the caps in the second unit as a preemptive strike.

[plasticrelic]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Thank you SO MUCH for posting this info. I have a CyberPower 1350 with the exact same problem. Spent money replacing batteries only to find it wasn't charging. Replaced C1 and just like yours, now it charges again! THANKS A MILLION, you saved me many hours of troubleshooting. I was about to pitch it and just buy a whole new UPS.

I must thanks plasticrelic for opening this thread and the rest of you guys for supplying such useful information.
I have a CP1500AVR about 8 years old and like this better than the new version. Also good to see that the main board are nearly identical since mine got a burnout on what I could now see from the OP pictures is a resistor near the viper. The capacitor is no good also I think it caused this issue.
I think the board is fixable since no trace is torn off.

EDIT by mods: user created a new thread here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65997

@BigRed12 and @crash-cyberdrive

Glad we, as a community, are able to figure things like this out. It helps everyone and that is what motivates me. Good luck and have fun.

plasticrelic

[BigRed12]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

My CyberPower 1350AVR died after a bad storm, must have been on the way out. The batteries no longer held a charge. I ordered new batteries, but it would not charge them. I did not find any relevant examples for my unit so I decided to start with a capacitance test by de-soldering capacitors and testing with my multi-meter. I tested 4 before I found one with an obvious failure out of specification. Tested C2, C14, C1 and C3. I found the fault was C1 rated at 22 uF and 50 V. Its capacitance was 2.014 uF and falling over time. I replaced it and now the batteries charge and have stayed charged. I will update this post if it fails again.

Thank you SO MUCH for posting this info. I have a CyberPower 1350 with the exact same problem. Spent money replacing batteries only to find it wasn't charging. Replaced C1 and just like yours, now it charges again! THANKS A MILLION, you saved me many hours of troubleshooting. I was about to pitch it and just buy a whole new UPS.

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

It may help to bring the temps down by considerable margin by putting even just a tiny heatsink on the PWM chip. Or possibly putting a silicone rubber pad between the board and the plastic cover. About 5 mm thick or more (or you can put more of them on each other).

While plastic does not conduct heat so well, when the chip gets so hot, the plastic can still warm up too and dissipate some (especially via radiation when it's black). Besides, the ViPER does not really put away so much of heat, it's couple watts. If you remove only 0.5 W or 1 W of that, it will get considerably cooler.

I think it was always recommended in the datasheet of such chips to put the drain pins to some larger area of copper on the PCB (possibly with some extra solder) so it can conduct the heat away and use the whole board as heatsink. But why doing it? Making it like this means they save 0.1c per unit and a third of them die shortly after warranty.

[tehownt]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Just wanted to document that I repaird two CP1500AVRLCD by replacing C1 and C3 (and the VIPER22A) just like OP.

Both had brown-ish zone around the VIPER22A and only one had critically failed: battery would discharge very slowly when connected to the power outlet and almost instantly discharge when unplugged (so after a while plugged, the UPS would complain that the battery was dead). I first thought it was the battery, but I swapped it with the other UPS, and it worked fine in the other UPS. Also tested the output voltage and it looked OK.

It clearly looks like the VIPER22A can get very hot (up to 170C according to its specs) which might be the cause of failure of the surrounding caps over time (as the fan only works when the UPS is on battery, but the VIPER22A can hit 80-90C steadily from my laser thermometer measurements).

I ended up repairing one and preventively replacing caps in the second one, replacing C1 with https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1-1-ND/7365024 and C3 with https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...6-1-ND/3129143 and the VIPER22A with new ones bought on ebay (digikey had no VIPER22A-E DIP-8 in stock).

Also added small heatsinks (cut from video card ramsinks with pliers, though some exist on digikey https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...819-ND/3511413).

When all was replugged, the failed UPS powered up in a strange bootloop and LCD would blink just like mentionned here https://blog.sherwinm.com/2017/08/05...power-1350avr/. Turns out it just needed to be connected to a battery with a small charge to power up correctly, and afterwards everything seems to be working fine so far for both units.

[crash-cyberdrive]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I must thanks plasticrelic for opening this thread and the rest of you guys for supplying such useful information.
I have a CP1500AVR about 8 years old and like this better than the new version. Also good to see that the main board are nearly identical since mine got a burnout on what I could now see from the OP pictures is a resistor near the viper. The capacitor is no good also I think it caused this issue.
I think the board is fixable since no trace is torn off.

EDIT by mods: user created a new thread here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65997

[plasticrelic]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Hi plasticrelic,

I have the exactly the same issue with my Cyberpower 1500AVR.
I believe both of our main boards' are nearly identical (other than wattage).

I replaced the C3 cap due to obvious damage, but I am afraid to remove
my C1 cap because on the back side of my board there appears to be a tiny
copper colored component soldered across the C1 cap's traces.

When you un-soldered your C1 did you see this micro-component ?
Any idea what this little thing is ? How on earth did you get such a tiny
component back on the board ?

Thanks in advance for any advice

It has been a few months. I do not remember any component under the capacitors.

[PeteS in CA]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Indeed, most likely SMD ceramic. What are the original lytics, Su'Scons? I'd replace all, where one is bad, others will follow.

Anyway, good to see CyberPower does not use Must Power crap, they have their own platform…

If this unit is 7-8 years old, like that of the OP, every lytic not made by one of the good brands should be considered suspect.

A UPS mfr using low quality/reliability caps seems oxymoronic to me, but what do I know?

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

It may also be because the cap failed, it was not working properly, excesivelly switching. Putting a tiny heatsink on it will not harm anything though.

[kc8adu]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

looks like the viper running hot.
cooking c1.

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Indeed, most likely SMD ceramic. What are the original lytics, Su'Scons? I'd replace all, where one is bad, others will follow.

Anyway, good to see CyberPower does not use Must Power crap, they have their own platform…

[budm]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Hi plasticrelic,

I have exactly the same issue with my Cyberpower 1500AVR.
I believe both of our main boards' are nearly identical (other than wattage).

I replaced the C3 cap due to obvious damage, but I am afraid to remove
my C1 cap because on the back side of my board there appears to be a tiny
copper colored component soldered across the C1 cap's traces.

When you un-soldered your C1 did you see this micro-component ?
Any idea what this little thing is ? How on earth did you get such a tiny
component back on the board ?

Thanks in advance for any advice

Pictures of the parts and exactly connected? It sounds like MLCC.

[EvenKeel]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

My CyberPower 1350AVR died after a bad storm, must have been on the way out. The batteries no longer held a charge. I ordered new batteries, but it would not charge them. I did not find any relevant examples for my unit so I decided to start with a capacitance test by de-soldering capacitors and testing with my multi-meter. I tested 4 before I found one with an obvious failure out of specification. Tested C2, C14, C1 and C3. I found the fault was C1 rated at 22 uF and 50 V. Its capacitance was 2.014 uF and falling over time. I replaced it and now the batteries charge and have stayed charged. I will update this post if it fails again.

Hi plasticrelic,

I have exactly the same issue with my Cyberpower 1500AVR.
I believe both of our main boards' are nearly identical (other than wattage).

I replaced the C3 cap due to obvious damage, but I am afraid to remove
my C1 cap because on the back side of my board there appears to be a tiny
copper colored component soldered across the C1 cap's traces.

When you un-soldered your C1 did you see this micro-component ?
Any idea what this little thing is ? How on earth did you get such a tiny
component back on the board ?

Thanks in advance for any advice