Re: Need help identifying this part
ohms setting,
either side of the board - whatever is easier to get the probes on.
ohms setting,
either side of the board - whatever is easier to get the probes on.
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Re: Need help identifying this part
By "pins", we understand "the (three) legs of the transistor".Khron's Cave - Electronics - Audio - Teardowns - Mods - Repairs - Projects - Music - Rants - ShenanigansComment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
I ordered a new transistor on Ebay.
Thanks any way guys... I blew it up-literally.
Came today from work impatiently to solder the last component (800ma pico fuse that I bought), soldered the fuse, connected to the wall socket and it almost exploded in my hands. The fuse exploded like a fireworks...
well, what can I say... newbe. We all need to learn somehow.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Need help identifying this part
and more photosAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Need help identifying this part
hmmm - the fuse should have blown first!
where did you get the picofuse and can you check it now with a meter?Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
There is nothing left of the Pico fuse. He exploded right away. I bought it in a reliable store.Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
picofuse should not explode.
anyway - obviously something is shorted - probably the rectifier or fet.
didnt you check them?Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
Are you sure it is 800mA fuse not 8A fuse?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
Absolutely. I believe 8A fuse will be much larger.
I am wondering if it supposed to be a fuse in the first place. Maybe it was a diode? I mean the original one.Comment
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Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
BTW, did you also check the transistor Q2?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
Hi budm,
The new mosfet P/N is
AUK
P50723
STK 0460
unfortunately I threw away the old mosfet but I do remember that it was a STK0460.
No, I didn't check the Q2.Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
check across the main capacitor
it's very rare, but they can short out.Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
EEK!
Any fuse with decent UL/CSA safety approvals will not spitzensparks. I've never seen a blue Picofuse, only green.
Dirty flux/solder bridge on the PCB (ahead of the fuse) that's my guess what happened. The melted trace takes more than 8A to melt!
When the original parts went bad and you put in the wrong mosfet, I think more components are damaged like Q2 and the bridge rectifier. Did you replace R11 (0.47R 2W) it looks new?
From now on, I would power it up with a 25-40W light bulb in series, if you are confident in your electronics skills, because it is dangerous to have all that loose mains wiring. At least it will stop the Tesla Coil action.Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
I sure like to see the spare fuse that he bought, I doubt that 0.8A will blow up like that. If the PICO fuse blew up that bad, the original glass body fuse would have blown up spectacularly.Last edited by budm; 01-04-2016, 10:10 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Need help identifying this part
The only thing that board is good for now is to practice desoldering skills on. Not worth trying to fix.Comment
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I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
First of all, I hope I got this into the right section. Apologies if I did not.
I was working on my Asus ROG Strix G17 (2021) G713QM-RS96, and I guess I pre-heated the board too much replacing the DC Jack and one of the small parts came off. I looked for it on my soldering mat, and it was nowhere to be found. So now, the laptop is powered from the new DC Jack I installed, but it will not charge the battery from that jack. Only powers the hardware.
I looked at the boardview diagram in another post for the G713QM, and it looks like the diagram displays it as X450, a 4 contact... -
I have a 5V 55A led Delta power supply with no output. I found this 7 pin IC 901 damaged as in the photo. All other elements look ok. I checked and every other surrounding componets diodes, resistors and capacitors look ok. I have 2 identical power supplies removed from a led wall which have the same defect with this ic burned but not a working one for reference. I founded by measurements that pin 7 goes to positive hot 450V 220uF electrolytic capacitor primary side. Pin 1, 2, 3, 4 connected together to pcb cooper trace. These four pins goes to negative side of 10uF 50V electrolytic capacitor... -
Hello all, Can anybody help me identifying this part its on the usb c line on a hp elite x2 ,Seem like a filter or cap ,or some sort of short or polarity protection.anyway its blown.
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