Well I've found myself buying another TP 2.0 to replace my X-Box 360 supply that overheats and causes problems with my console.
The one on my gaming PC that I recapped has been running rock solid since July so I decided to get another one.
So I go on E-bay and buy one around 30 bucks shipped that was supposedly just pulled from a working computer and was stated in working condition.
So before I tear into it I decide to test it just to make sure everythings ok before I go inside.
So I first bridge the Green on wire and with an old HDD for the dummy load the fan just jerks once and only a persistant high freqency whine prevails.
I think there is a protection circuit kicking in.
So then I decide to plug it into an old Slot 1 400 MHZ job and hit the power button.
The PSU comes to life but then quickly cycles on and off I could hear the HDD spinning up and shutting down this was also seen on the power on light on the PC.
So I immediately pull the plug to prevent any IC damage to the supply.
I take off the cover and what a suprise. Fukyuu bulgers.
Just a note it is SO much easier to remove the board from the case rather then flipping it back and fourth. Simply desolder the 2 voltage doubler selector switch wires from the board then desolder the AC input wires.
Disconnect the 2 fan wires and desolder the blue fan speed wire from the riser PCB. Remove the modular connector PCB by depressing the 4 plastic tabs holding it in place. Then the board comes right out.
The 12 volt rail filter measured at 47 ohms out of circuit.
In my Antec the 12 volt rail had a Teapo cap on it which tells me that Antec may have been experimenting with just replacing the 12 volt cap and leaving the other crappy Fuyuus in place to save some money.
The 12 volt rail is the tallest cap to the left.
One of the caps next to it is for the 5 volt rail.
Just like in my supply the 4700 caps for the 3.3 volt rail and some other rail were fine probably because they are not stressed like the 12 and 5 volt rails are. If they were put in the 12 volt or 5 volt rails I'm sure that they would meet the same demise.
Whats funny is the 1000uf 10 volt standby caps are General Purpose. Its hilarious not only can Fukyuu not make Low ESR caps they can't make GP either
. Check the pic of the 5VSB caps and you will notice some darkening around the transformer.
My supply didn't have any darkening it is probably due to overheating of the transformer due to the bad standby caps they didn't even register on the ESR meter they were over 100 ohms. I caught my supply early.
Luckily the input caps where Panasonic at a healthy 1200uf each. Its funny they invest in good caps on the primary and go penny pinch on the all important secondary
.
Bean counters cost more money then they save.
Anyhow I recapped the supply with Panasonic FCs and with some coaxing I got them to fit on the secondary side. Luckily for the standby caps I had some Pana FC skinny 8mm and tall 1000uf at 10 volts that fit perfectly.
Everything is working great now.
But I have a question there is one cap I didn't replace its a 0.33uf at 50 volts I know these caps don't usually give trouble but this is a personal supply. That will be powering my 360 so I'm going the extra mile
.
Oddly enough I checked my records and on my identicial 500W supply I recapped there is nothing on my parts list or sales slips for the recap for this value which leads me to believe it was a different value on my supply. It probably was 0.47 uf but I can't say with absolute certainty.
Anyhow needless to say I don't have that esoteric value (and probably will never need it again) but I do have 0.47 uf since lytics are 20% tolerance anyways would that be fine?
The one on my gaming PC that I recapped has been running rock solid since July so I decided to get another one.
So I go on E-bay and buy one around 30 bucks shipped that was supposedly just pulled from a working computer and was stated in working condition.
So before I tear into it I decide to test it just to make sure everythings ok before I go inside.
So I first bridge the Green on wire and with an old HDD for the dummy load the fan just jerks once and only a persistant high freqency whine prevails.
I think there is a protection circuit kicking in.
So then I decide to plug it into an old Slot 1 400 MHZ job and hit the power button.
The PSU comes to life but then quickly cycles on and off I could hear the HDD spinning up and shutting down this was also seen on the power on light on the PC.
So I immediately pull the plug to prevent any IC damage to the supply.
I take off the cover and what a suprise. Fukyuu bulgers.
Just a note it is SO much easier to remove the board from the case rather then flipping it back and fourth. Simply desolder the 2 voltage doubler selector switch wires from the board then desolder the AC input wires.
Disconnect the 2 fan wires and desolder the blue fan speed wire from the riser PCB. Remove the modular connector PCB by depressing the 4 plastic tabs holding it in place. Then the board comes right out.
The 12 volt rail filter measured at 47 ohms out of circuit.
In my Antec the 12 volt rail had a Teapo cap on it which tells me that Antec may have been experimenting with just replacing the 12 volt cap and leaving the other crappy Fuyuus in place to save some money.
The 12 volt rail is the tallest cap to the left.
One of the caps next to it is for the 5 volt rail.
Just like in my supply the 4700 caps for the 3.3 volt rail and some other rail were fine probably because they are not stressed like the 12 and 5 volt rails are. If they were put in the 12 volt or 5 volt rails I'm sure that they would meet the same demise.
Whats funny is the 1000uf 10 volt standby caps are General Purpose. Its hilarious not only can Fukyuu not make Low ESR caps they can't make GP either
. Check the pic of the 5VSB caps and you will notice some darkening around the transformer.My supply didn't have any darkening it is probably due to overheating of the transformer due to the bad standby caps they didn't even register on the ESR meter they were over 100 ohms. I caught my supply early.
Luckily the input caps where Panasonic at a healthy 1200uf each. Its funny they invest in good caps on the primary and go penny pinch on the all important secondary
.Bean counters cost more money then they save.
Anyhow I recapped the supply with Panasonic FCs and with some coaxing I got them to fit on the secondary side. Luckily for the standby caps I had some Pana FC skinny 8mm and tall 1000uf at 10 volts that fit perfectly.
Everything is working great now.
But I have a question there is one cap I didn't replace its a 0.33uf at 50 volts I know these caps don't usually give trouble but this is a personal supply. That will be powering my 360 so I'm going the extra mile
.Oddly enough I checked my records and on my identicial 500W supply I recapped there is nothing on my parts list or sales slips for the recap for this value which leads me to believe it was a different value on my supply. It probably was 0.47 uf but I can't say with absolute certainty.
Anyhow needless to say I don't have that esoteric value (and probably will never need it again) but I do have 0.47 uf since lytics are 20% tolerance anyways would that be fine?
Attached Files
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. Since the labels were the same design I thought they all were the same series the TruePower Series.
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with this card lol Zotac GTX 1080 OEM 8 GB
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