Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
It saves 1c
"POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
Collapse
X
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
I have a question for you guys here, how come these generic manufacturers like to solder the L and N wires from the power plug (that also happened on my Delta Power 450W), and in this power supply even the thermistor into the vacant spot where the coil for the transient filtering stage belongs. There are proper locations for those two wires and thermistor on the PCB and marked on the silkscreen, so why do they solder those two things into a different location?Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
^
If you have a better rectifier you can scavenge from a dead PSU, then by all means use it, but if not, don't sweat too much over it.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
Hardware Secrets has been pushing this myth for years, even though they never had the primary diodes die in any of those cheapies. Neither have i. Not even the wimpy 2A ones. 95% of the time the primary switching transistors blow up due to overheating and then take out the fuse, then there's the occasional failed secondary diode when the power supply shuts down gracefully.
The reality is that 3A is the typical rating of this type diode in its typical operating position, ie sitting flush to the board and with natural convection cooling. In this case they sit upright and are in the fan's path. They will do almost double their rating without failing.
I might pull a proper bridge rectifier from one of the dead PSUs that I have.Last edited by Newbie2; 02-08-2012, 09:47 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
The reality is that 3A is the typical rating of this type diode in its typical operating position, ie sitting flush to the board and with natural convection cooling. In this case they sit upright and are in the fan's path. They will do almost double their rating without failing.Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 02-08-2012, 09:37 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
If you're just using parts you have laying around, then I'd say go for it. That's what I did (other than a rectifier and the caps) when I re-built my Rexpower PL-400Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
I am now planning a slight rebuild of this PSU, but nothing too drastic like my Delta Power 450W. I am thinking of adding in the transient filtering stage components (two more Y caps, an X cap, and a coil), replacing the BH capacitors with better capacitors in for the secondary side, replacing the MOSPEC F16C20C 16A rectifier on the +12V rail with a new STTH2002CT (a small improvement) that I have leftover from a previous PSU rebuild, and replacing the 80mm exhaust fan with something better that I have in my collection of fans.
All the parts to be used will be either from what I already have laying around or salvaged from two dead PSUs I own, which are an Enermax EG301P-VE 300W and the infamous Bestec ATX-250-12E 250W (before you ask, yes it had a 5VSB meltdown). I will not invest any more of my hard-earned money into this cheap $20 power supply.
Does this sound good?Last edited by Newbie2; 02-08-2012, 09:28 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
Not too bad really. I mean yeah it is an ancient voltage mode controlled piece of shit but it can be significantly improved. First off he 13009 switchers are at least in a TO-220 package, that should help with maximum wattage. And the board appears to have been drilled and silkscreened for an actual bridge rectifier. I'd prolly upgrade the rectifier diodes (not a big fan of mospec) to something from ST and add on some sort of input filtering and replace the primary caps with something a tad bigger.. Just go to a PC shop and get a few old junk PSUs for parts.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
If you add the input filters and bigger output caps, I think this might be a better unit than your Delta Power.Leave a comment:
-
Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
With those wimpy heatsinks, I/P and O/P rectifiers, I wouldn't use it higher than 200 watts, if that. It's a half bridge design (the two 13009s - originally Motorola's MJE13009, specifically designed for switching P/Ss), the smallest transformer is probably the base drive (maybe proportional drive, which can be self-oscillatory at power-off if not done right). The 2SC5027 is probably for the Stby O/P, probably a self-oscillating discontinuous flyback (aka "ring choke"), the medium-sized transformer being for that O/P.Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
c_hegge would you happen to have any pictures of your Sky 550W PSU after you made it explode?Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
I had an identical-looking Sky 550W-P4. The Switching transistors exploded when I asked for 280W load
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=110
Now I wonder which manufacturer is behind these cheap power supplies...Leave a comment:
-
Re: "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
I had an identical-looking Sky 550W-P4. The Switching transistors exploded when I asked for 280W load
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=110Leave a comment:
-
"POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply
I just recently got my hands on a brand new generic "POWER PC" ML915 350W power supply, which cost $20 CAD at a small local computer shop.
I could not positively identify the manufacturer of this PSU as there was no UL number to look up, and all the markings on the PCB (which were "HY", "HY0011", "ML915", and "ML 908B") turned up nothing informative to this PSU on Google. This PSU does sort of look similar to my Delta Power 450W PSU that I have in an older thread: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7708
Here are its specifications on the sticker:
+5V = 20A
+12V = 14A
-5V = 0.5A
-12V = 0.5A
+3.3V = 16A
5VSB = 2.0A
Total = 350W (more modest than the typical 400W+ claims of other generic PSUs)
Here are some pictures of this PSU:
Three shots of the power supply.
Not many connectors coming from this power supply; there's just the 20+4 pin ATX motherboard connector, 4-pin P4 12V connector, four 4-pin peripheral power connectors, and just one SATA power connector (missing the 3.3V wire found on most better power supplies).
The label of this power supply.
Two overhead shots of the internals of this power supply.
The two "KDC" 560uf 200V primary caps in this power supply.
What consists of the transient filtering stage (nothing really), as well as the four diode treatment consisting of 1N5408 3A diodes.
The primary side silicon, consisting of a C5027 3A NPN transistor and two Fairchild-branded 13009 fast-switching NPN transistors, all in the familar TO-220 package size.
The three transformers in this power supply.
Another shot of part of the primary side of this power supply.
The secondary side capacitors; they are all "BH" brand, and the four blue 10mm caps are rated at 1000uf 10V while the two brown ones of the same size between them are 1000uf 16V.
The secondary side silicon, consisting of one MOSPEC F16C20C 16A power rectifier and two MOSPEC S20C45C 20A Schottky rectifiers, all in the TO-220 package size.
The "CG8010DX16" PWM chip in this power supply on the secondary side.
The single 80mm exhaust fan in this power supply is a "Legend" DF0802512SEMN, which I could not find any information on.
A view of the 80mm exhaust fan of this power supply.
Two pictures of the PCB underside of this power supply.
Regarding what might be the true wattage of this power supply, the 3A 1N5408 diodes on the primary side would mean that this power supply would only be able to pull in a maximum of 360W on a 120V AC line, which would actually be 252W assuming 70% efficiency (typical of cheaper PSUs). The silkscreen on the PCB states "F5AL/250VAC 230W" on it (visible in one of my pictures), and the fuse used in this power supply is indeed a 5A 250VAC fuse. Both these factors I found could indicate that a more honest rating of this PSU from the manufacturer would be around 230W, which seems reasonable considering the maximum amount of power this PSU could pull in from a 120V AC outlet judging from the diodes.
I do not plan on rebuilding or upgrading this PSU, as the cost for capacitors and other parts would be equal to that of a decently made higher-quality power supply. I purchased this PSU to put into my basic Athlon 64 X2 3800+ build if I ever sell it or give it away, as I have my rebuilt Delta Power 450W currently powering that and I want to keep that rebuilt PSU. I have not yet plugged in and turned on this "POWER PC" PSU, and do not plan to in the near future as I currently have no need for it.
Any comments on this "POWER PC" 350W PSU?Last edited by Newbie2; 02-07-2012, 06:27 PM.Tags: None
Related Topics
Collapse
-
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?by Tynan DillI was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming...7 Photos -
by sam_sam_samI have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
by sam_sam_samI have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
by JimBanvilleThe sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
-
by Gust zhangI have a 15 - inch Retina MacBook Pro from the mid - 2014 model. Here is the link: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...light=820-3662 . The battery broke some time ago. After I removed the battery and plugged in the original power adapter, the MBP could boot up normally. However, when I checked with IntelPowerGadget, I found that the CPU speed was limited to 0.8 GHz, and it ran very slowly. Later, I found a solution on GitHub. There is an open - source project called cputune that can set the CPU running speed. So I can now run the MBP at full speed. But another problem...
- Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: