Perfect, thank you. And I think I've finally figured out how to find it in the file so I wont have to ask again.
you are welcome. Yep, comparing my file with your original file you can figure out where it is. Usually for this machine pass is in VSS2 Store/padding but you have to merge both files to open with UEFITool.
Hey guys, i would be grateful for any assistance with this board bios files.
Original Problem: ESC, CAPS and NUMLOCK lights on. Batt light flashing. Wont power on to Bios. Suspect it is corrupted.
What I tried: Replaced a noticeably hot ic - which seems to have cured the flashing amber batt light, as it is now white, but still no boot.
I also replaced the BQ chip just for the hell of it - no difference. Battery is Good. Bios battery is good. PSU is good.
I've attached dumps from #1 Bios: XMC 0H64AHIC + #2 Bios: 0H128AHIC (might be ...AHIG) see pics
I see a third bios chip, Winbond 25Q80DVNIG over near the USB-C ports, I uploaded that Bios too.
Could someone check my dumps please , or upload replacements I can use to flash back onto my board ?
Hi, can you help me remove the BIOS password from this dump,or tell me what the password is ?
Thinkbook 15 G2 ITL
S/N: MP23XB4D
MB: LA-K051P Rev 1B
Try this Password:
21ELEMENTE
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After reinstalling the chips, the laptop no longer powers on. The symptoms are as follows:
The power button blinks in the following pattern: stays lit for about 2 seconds, then turns off for about 10 seconds, and repeats in a loop.
I left the laptop in this state for at least 10 minutes – nothing changed, it still keeps blinking.
The screen remains black, with no sign of POST.
Note: This is not my first time working with BIOS chips. I have experience with programming and soldering, so I’m not sure what could have gone wrong in this case.
Does anyone know exactly what this blinking pattern means, and whether it indicates a corrupted BIOS or possibly another type of fault?
Should I open a new thread for this issue, or is it okay to ask here?
After reinstalling the chips, the laptop no longer powers on. The symptoms are as follows:
The power button blinks in the following pattern: stays lit for about 2 seconds, then turns off for about 10 seconds, and repeats in a loop.
I left the laptop in this state for at least 10 minutes – nothing changed, it still keeps blinking.
The screen remains black, with no sign of POST.
You didn't erase the chip, so the problem could be a bad soldering, missing component or a broken (chip even if you can still read and write it).
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Due to a lack of donations, server free space at a critical level, and possible closure of Bios Requests
all donations are welcome,
see the donate button at the bottom of the page, or
>>>>>click on this link to donate via PayPal.<<<<<
Every donation made will go towards server fees and maintenance costs. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You didn't erase the chip, so the problem could be a bad soldering, missing component or a broken (chip even if you can still read and write it).
No, I did not erase the chip. I even desoldered and read both chips again, then compared the dumps with the ones I had previously posted here on the forum – the contents are identical.
As for my soldering work, I’m attaching a photo below so you can see it yourself. I’m confident that I haven’t accidentally removed any components during the desoldering/soldering process.
If you believe the chips might be damaged, would it be possible to replace the QH64 and QH128 with Winbond 25Q64 and Winbond 25Q128 instead?
Are these fully compatible in terms of pinout, voltage, and performance, or could there be any issues when using them as replacements on this board?
And of course, should I actually go ahead and replace them, or would you recommend further testing before doing so?
No, I did not erase the chip. I even desoldered and read both chips again, then compared the dumps with the ones I had previously posted here on the forum – the contents are identical.
Is that a Capacitor or just a light reflection?
According to the Schematic, Boradview and another similar board picture, it should be a Resistor in that place.
Everything else looks the same.
Attached Files
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Due to a lack of donations, server free space at a critical level, and possible closure of Bios Requests
all donations are welcome,
see the donate button at the bottom of the page, or
>>>>>click on this link to donate via PayPal.<<<<<
Every donation made will go towards server fees and maintenance costs. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Is that a Capacitor or just a light reflection?
According to the Schematic, Boradview and another similar board picture, it should be a Resistor in that place.
Everything else looks the same.
You’re right, there should be a resistor there. I accidentally moved it, and when I put it back, I placed it upside down, so the white bottom side was facing up. I’ve now corrected it – great observation!
What do you think could still be the issue? The only thing I’m certain of is that the BIOS battery was connected when I removed the chips. However, this has never caused problems for me before, and I doubt it’s the case this time either.
And just a correction regarding the power button blinking pattern I mentioned earlier: the button stays lit for 5 seconds, then turns off for 5 seconds, and repeats like that.
If you believe the chips might be damaged, would it be possible to replace the QH64 and QH128 with Winbond 25Q64 and Winbond 25Q128 instead?
Yes, you can use Winbond W25Q64JV/W25Q64FV and W25Q128JV/W25Q128FV.
Originally posted by Jovica123
You’re right, there should be a resistor there. I accidentally moved it, and when I put it back, I placed it upside down, so the white bottom side was facing up. I’ve now corrected it – great observation!
Okay, I can't see anything else.
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Due to a lack of donations, server free space at a critical level, and possible closure of Bios Requests
all donations are welcome,
see the donate button at the bottom of the page, or
>>>>>click on this link to donate via PayPal.<<<<<
Every donation made will go towards server fees and maintenance costs. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes, you can use Winbond W25Q64JV/W25Q64FV and W25Q128JV/W25Q128FV.
Okay, I can't see anything else.
In the end, it turned out that the problem was not related to the BIOS at all, but to the motherboard itself.
When I first received the laptop for repair, I powered it on and saw that it was locked. I turned it off and began the unlocking process. However, after I first removed both chips, read their contents, and soldered them back onto the board, on the next power-on attempt the laptop would no longer display an image (power LED stays on for 5 seconds, off for 5 seconds).
This morning, out of curiosity, I decided to try again. I noticed that the CPU was heating up, so I thought everything was fine. However, on the second power-on – after connecting the display – the laptop again refused to start.
I decided to try one method: I placed the motherboard in the fridge for 15 minutes, then powered it on again. Amazingly, the laptop started, displayed an image, and I shut it down using the power button. When I tried to power it on again, it wouldn’t start.
post merged...next time look for a thread with the name and model, motherboard model of the laptop, and post there, if you can't find it, then make a new thread..
>Explain you were not able to succeed with the methods at BIOS guides, methods, resources and tools
>
python ./main.py "/mnt/c/temp/205605f9e1b60403a41787efeffe9cad-flas_maybe5.BIN" --output-dir "/mnt/c/temp/205605f9e1b60403a41787efeffe9cad-flas_maybe5.txt"
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Hi, i have a Panasonic Cf-W5 with the bios password, I tried remove cmos but problem didnot solve.
I uploaded the picture after remove cmos battery, It look like this is a Phoenix bios. The bios dump file in the link i attached
Please help me remove bios password.
Thank you so much
i need some help :-/
i deleted in Bios the Admisnistrator password with old password, but after it didn't allow me to modify the User password. Now i can't boot, enter the bios or do anything. It asking at boot for password, old password don't work...
Could you please remove all password related stuff from this bios. A hate Asus....
I'm using TONGFANG "GM7TG7P" model laptop for over 3 years and i'm entering the same bios administrator password everyday. My laptop has Aptio BIOS (American Megatrends, AMI).
But today it's not accepting my password. I'm %100 sure i'm entering the correct password.
I'm trying to reset my bios without success.
I tried :
-I removed the BIOS battery and main battery. Waited for a long time but it didn't work. They already stated in the user manual that the password will not be reset even if the batteries...
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