Lenovo ideapad 5 windows 11 update disable charging circuit?

[m1ch43lzm]

Sorry, I made a typo, it's SM3313NSQG, those are available at AliExpress or eBay from China, but I'm trying to find an equivalent replacement from another manufacturer that's available at mouser/digikey

I suggest ordering several

Maybe mon2 could you suggest an alternate part that's suitable? Thanks in advance
EDIT: you beat me again 😁

[bogart219]

Sorry, I made a typo, it's SM3313NSQG, those are available at AliExpress or eBay from China, but I'm trying to find an equivalent replacement from another manufacturer that's available at mouser/digikey

I suggest ordering several

Maybe mon2 could you suggest an alternate part that's suitable? Thanks in advance
EDIT: you beat me again 😁

Thank you m1ch, you and mom2 have been a lifesaver.

[bogart219]

Good morning. Is this the correct chip to get? From AliExpress. These are NPN , YES?

I believe they come in a pack of five (circle), is that correct? Thanks

[mon2]

NPN? Do you mean DFN = dual flat no-lead package? Yes, you have selected the correct part # and yes 5 pcs to a purchase. The fast delivery option is ~2 weeks to Canada and your case may be similar. If in a rush, you can select the replacement from Digikey (USA). If you are shopping on Aliexpress, very likely the same store will offer the other mosfets that surround this area of the board. Does not hurt to purchase them as spares as well.

[m1ch43lzm]

With the current tariffs in the US for goods coming from china, even for small packages, I suggest buying the alternate parts from digikey or mouser

mon2 what do you think about this one? The schematics you posted mention AONR32314 but they're out of stock, there's AONR32318 but the package is bigger (DFN 3x3 for the 32314 vs DFN3.3x3.3 for 32318)

AON7522E
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...n7522e/3603566

Order 10 and it's 5.2 usd +shipping

Or this one?

AONR36366
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...36366/10071205

[bogart219]

NPN? Do you mean DFN = dual flat no-lead package? Yes, you have selected the correct part # and yes 5 pcs to a purchase. The fast delivery option is ~2 weeks to Canada and your case may be similar. If in a rush, you can select the replacement from Digikey (USA). If you are shopping on Aliexpress, very likely the same store will offer the other mosfets that surround this area of the board. Does not hurt to purchase them as spares as well.

Hey moms, I mentioned npn because after watching a bunch of Sorin videos where he deals with mosfets, and he has said that this one is a npn while this one is a pnp. Maybe I misunderstood him.
Also in another video where he was tracking down where the 19.7 volts where on a dead lappy, he said that he found 19 volts on what he called the input of the mosfet (drain) and nothing on the source (source). He said the mosfet was nothing but a switch. what he ended up doing was removing the mosfet completely and soldering a bridge between the drain and the source, then the lappy worked. Do you think this is a good way to think of this mosfets?

I will place the order at aliexpress. Thanks! I looking for a decent budget digital microscope now, the selection is mind boggling.

[m1ch43lzm]

bogart219


You missed my post about replacement MOSFETs (we posted almost at the same time)

Sorin probably meant channel N or channel P MOSFET, maybe his accent made you think he said npn or pnp

To "turn on" a channel N MOSFET, the voltage on its gate should be higher than the voltage at its source

From Google AI

Here's a more detailed explanation: Gate-Source Voltage (VGS):
The voltage applied between the gate and source determines the MOSFET's state.
Threshold Voltage (VGS(th)):
Each MOSFET has a specific threshold voltage. The gate-source voltage must exceed this threshold for the MOSFET to turn on.

Replacing MOSFETs with wires, is the "dodgy way" as he calls it, in your laptop would be:
1. Remove both PQ8304 and PQ8301
2. Bridge S (pins 1-3) from PQ8304 to S of PQ8301, the drains are connected on the board (leave the gates unconnected)

That would make the usb-c port near the HDMI port your "charge only" port, if you also do the same to PQ8302 and PQ8303, when the charger is plugged in you'll get 20v on the other port, possibly damaging a device connected to it

So his "dodgy" repair would only work for leaving 1 port to be dedicated for "charging only", as you could infer from the second video i linked on post #28

[bogart219]

With the current tariffs in the US for goods coming from china, even for small packages, I suggest buying the alternate parts from digikey or mouser

mon2 what do you think about this one? The schematics you posted mention AONR32314 but they're out of stock, there's AONR32318 but the package is bigger (DFN 3x3 for the 32314 vs DFN3.3x3.3 for 32318)

AON7522E
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...n7522e/3603566

Order 10 and it's 5.2 usd +shipping

Or this one?

AONR36366
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...36366/10071205

I think I'm sticking with digikey or mouser. which one should I get?

[bogart219]

bogart219


You missed my post about replacement MOSFETs (we posted almost at the same time)

Sorin probably meant channel N or channel P MOSFET, maybe his accent made you think he said npn or pnp
Replacing MOSFETs with wires, is the "dodgy way" as he calls it, in your laptop would be:
1. Remove both PQ8304 and PQ8301
2. Bridge S (pins 1-3) from PQ8304 to S of PQ8301, the drains are connected on the board (leave the gates unconnected)

That would make the usb-c port near the HDMI port your "charge only" port, if you also do the same to PQ8302 and PQ8303, when the charger is plugged in you'll get 20v on the other port, possibly damaging a device connected to it

So his "dodgy" repair would only work for leaving 1 port to be dedicated for "charging only", as you could infer from the second video i linked on post #28

Ha, I just seen this post for some reason. Yes it was N channel not npn. I would like to replace with the right part, I don't want to be "dodgy " if I can help it.

[mon2]

I think I'm sticking with digikey or mouser. which one should I get?

post # 40.

[bogart219]

post # 40.

Thanks mom, ordered

[bogart219]

good morning. In looking at the data sheet for that mosfit, I think I was taking measurements wrong. The dot on the chip was pin 1 but I assumed pin 1 was the gate where looking at the data sheet pin 1 is part of the source. I will retake the measurements and repost them. They should be more accurate this time also as I received my Andonstar 246S-M digital microscope yesterday Later!

[bogart219]

Guys, so sorry for giving you bad info. I should of look up that data sheet on those mosfits and know for sure what the hell I was testing. Here is the new results I just did. (it was a hell of lot easier with that microscope!).
This readings were taken with just the power adapter hooked up with the USB-C meter showing about 5.6 volts, NO BATTERY hooked up. It seems something screwing is going on with those mosfits. See what you guys think, thanks again for your time!!

[m1ch43lzm]

Still PQ8301 and PQ8303 are suspect according to the resistance measurements, hope you ordered at least 4

[bogart219]

Still PQ8301 and PQ8303 are suspect according to the resistance measurements, hope you ordered at least 4

Yes, I ORDERED FIVE plus the TPS65994 charge controller chip.

You know there is one thing I still don't understand. After watching a bunch of Sorin's video's on dead laptops, it seems when he pulls the motherboard out of the laptop and test it on his bench, that when he plugs in the the power supply with the battery disconnected, he is always able to find 19 volts somewhere on that board and then trace it down from there. On my board, It seems to me I can't find 19 volts anywhere even with the battery plugged in, just five volts. I can't sort this out in my head yet. Crazy.

[mon2]

TPS65994 is a power delivery controller which requires its own firmware (code) to operate. Once loaded, this controller will communicate with the external power adapter (USB-C) to extract and select the best PD contract (voltage & current) to power the logic board. By default, all PD adapters will wake up and offer 5volts which is what you are observing now. Once this PD controller is working, the communication over the CCx pins will select the 20v PD contract to power and also to charge the battery pack.

[bogart219]

TPS65994 is a power delivery controller which requires its own firmware (code) to operate. Once loaded, this controller will communicate with the external power adapter (USB-C) to extract and select the best PD contract (voltage & current) to power the logic board. By default, all PD adapters will wake up and offer 5volts which is what you are observing now. Once this PD controller is working, the communication over the CCx pins will select the 20v PD contract to power and also to charge the battery pack.

I see, so in otherwords, its not going to do me any good. Could you use it, I'll send it to you if you want? thanks for the info. The parts are supposed to be here today. I'm going to do some practice removing and putting back those tiny chips on some boards I have laying around using my digital scope and heat gun. I got some chipquick and flux. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little nervous doing this repair but screw it, you got to get your feet wet sooner or later I suppose. As always,thanks!

[m1ch43lzm]

Not sure about the heat gun, as long as it has proper temperature and air control, and you have a small nozzle, you don't want to burn the board or the surrounding components (or blow the small resistors/caps if the air pressure is too high)

Otherwise I suggest you get a proper hot air station, maybe you can find an used one for a good price, avoid those cheap units that have a blower fan inside the handle itself, that attach to the main unit with a cable (858 and derivatives like 878/8586/898 etc.), instead get one with an air hose to the handle where the heating element is located

[bogart219]

[QUOTE=m1ch43lzm;n3638561]Not sure about the heat gun, as long as it has proper temperature and air control, and you have a small nozzle, you don't want to burn the board or the surrounding components (or blow the small resistors/caps if the air pressure is too high)

Otherwise I suggest you get a proper hot air station, maybe you can find an used one for a good price, avoid those cheap units that have a blower fan inside the handle itself, that attach to the main unit with a cable (858 and derivatives like 878/8586/898 etc.), instead get one with an air hose to the handle where the heating element is located[/QUOt

Hello. I bought this heat gun a couple weeks ago to try out. My work bench is pretty crowded. I thought I could try this to get the hang of it and then if I needed to, I could buy a better one. It only cost about $25. It has small nozzles. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on one because the reality is I probably won't be using it that much after I'm done with this repair (hopefully). Later

[m1ch43lzm]

That one may work with the 8mm nozzle, the temp you would set to around 400 deg C, depending on the board

You may still have an use for it if you also do hobby electronics

I thought you had a heat gun like the one below, that one is not suitable