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    Im an idiot, and so can you

    Acer Extensa 4420-5212. Laptop

    I was replacing a broken screen. After I replaced it, I plugged the laptop back in, pressed the power button....and....nothing. No power, No LEDs, nothing. Will not run on battery or AC. Laptop worked great before, just had to plug it in to external display.

    After checking (which is what I should have done in the first place) the new ribbon cable, I noticed that even though the wire colors were the same as the old one, the wire pinout (from connector A Laptop mobo, to connector B LCD Screen) was different from the original old ribbon cable. I should have just used the old cable...I just thought the old one could wear and tear or crack over time, and that it would be better in the long run to use the new one. Im an idiot for not looking at the new cable closely lol. Anyways, here's the weird stuff:

    Even thought there was no smoke, ur burnt smell/burnt components, I did notice that the RAM module DIM # 2, had been burnt on one of the pins (If anyone would like pictures of anything im talking about, plz let me know). This laptop is the model that has 3GB ram, 1GB in DIM slot #1, and a 2gb stick in DIM slot #2. The 1gb RAM in slot #1 is fine, as is the socket, but the damaged pin on the 2gb RAM stick....the gold flake that was burned off the pin, was actually stuck to the RAM socket, thats why I think It got super hot. but since it didnt take all the gold off the pin/tracer/contact of the RAM, the RAM stick actually still works. I Put it in a friends laptop. Thats amazing, I usually dont have that luck lol.

    So anyways, the laptop still doesnt boot up, but when I plug it in, 2 components on the mainboard get very very hot. its so hot you cant touch it for more than a second. The first component is: ISL6236. here is some info on that:

    The ISL6236 dual step-down, switch-mode power-supply
    (SMPS) controller generates logic-supply voltages in
    battery-powered systems. The ISL6236 include two
    pulse-width modulation (PWM) controllers, 5V/3.3V and
    1.5V/1.05V. The output of SMPS1 can also be adjusted from
    0.7V to 5.5V. The SMPS2 output can be adjusted from 0V to
    2.5V by setting REFIN2 voltage. An optional external charge
    pump can be monitored through SECFB. This device features
    a linear regulator providing 3.3V/5V, or adjustable from 0.7V to
    4.5V output via LDOREFIN.

    There's a ton of info about this Intersil chip on their site, including a pinout. If anyone wants me to post that info I will, but that info can also be obtained by google'n this part. This part is surrounded by inductors and capacitors, and is just north of what i think is the GPU. This chip is also fairly close to the ram sockets. I should mention that all these components are on the same side of the PCB.

    The next hot component:

    If you flip the mainboard over, and look underneith the RAM sockets (the RAM sockets are on the other side of the PCB), there is a very small black component, that has 5 pins, 3 on one side, 2 on the other. It too gets very hot, and I guess makes sense since its right under the RAM sockets. I thought maybe this component being hot and bad was maybe sending feedback to that second RAM socket, and maybe thats what burnt that RAM stick. So I put the good 1GB stick in that socket, but it didnt burn it, so maybe it was the current from the wrong wire of that LCD ribbon cable. I dont know what component this is (maybe EC or U), but its labeled 909YU, or 909VU.

    Im gona guess that when I plugged that bad cable in the mainboard, it caused feedback/short/current that traveled all the way down a tracer point, until it finally damaged something. I used this laptop for school, and would appreciate and help, or even where I should begin. Just because these 2 components are hot, doesnt mean they are bad, right? I mean, could the bad component be causing these components to be hot? I can take pictures of anything you want, just as and I'd be more than happy to.

    One more thing, I got behind in school work, so I thought I would do it on my desktop....and of course, my hard drive just went bad. Its a 1tb Hitachi. It makes a noise similar to beep, click, beep. The beeps kinda sounds like quite screaming )poor thing and the click is the actuator arm smacking into either the cylinder or the outside wall. The SATA board on the underside of the harddrive, It has a component/logic labeled: LSI UAB-M3071-S, and gets very hot. once it gets failure hot, is when the beep/click starts (1-2 seconds after poweron. Static damage? I took the I/O board off the hard drive, and plugged it into power source...It didnt heat up. Interesting. I plugged the hard drive spindle power cable (small orange flexible ribbon cable attached to the under-side center of the drive) back into the HDDs I/O board, and plugged the power back in. the component heated back up as expected, but magically cooled back down after about 5 seconds. Interesting, right? Anyways I know this is very long, so thank you for taking the time to read any of this. Any questions or comments are very welcome.

    -Steve

    #2
    Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

    here is a pic if the ISL 6236(circled in yellow). Im sorry the quality is so bad, My camera isnt the greatest
    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

      Do you have the motherboard part number? Maybe I can find a schematic. The burning hot ISL6236 suggests there's a shorted part somewhere else.

      About your hard drive: It's unlikely you'll be able to fix that one yourself; not even data recovery people normally do board-level repairs on hard drives. That's the main CPU which is overheating, probably because something else shorted out.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

        Thank you for your reply,

        The model # is 554U101001G83301A3A201C

        The part # is 554U101001G843E5AD32000

        Out of these 2 numbers, 55.4U101.001 seems to be the number, the rest is maybe config codes??

        The weird thing is, Printed on the board itself it says: ORTA MB 48.4U101.011
        The 2 numbers I gave you above came from the stickers with the barcodes on them.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

          Also, thanks for the info on the Hard drive. That sucks, I guess Im going to just have to buy the exact hard drive, and take the firmware board. I dont want to ruin a good 1TB drive, so maybe I can find a drive that has a mechanical failure. Oh, I dont know how this happened, but the chip on the HDD I listed earlier was Not the bad chip. Dunno how I spaced out that bad, but the chip to the left, labeled 0a56511, which is the motor control chip. Now, the drive spun up, but when the chip got hot the drive would click. now that its not hot, the drive wont even spin up now. it tries a few times then quits. I think I static popped at cap or resistor or diode

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

            If anyone can point out a good place to start, i would be very greatful. Sometimes, running blind with a multimeter can damage certain components when applying current through them. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I would be very thankful

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

              Originally posted by scuba03 View Post
              Thank you for your reply,

              The model # is 554U101001G83301A3A201C

              The part # is 554U101001G843E5AD32000

              Out of these 2 numbers, 55.4U101.001 seems to be the number, the rest is maybe config codes??

              The weird thing is, Printed on the board itself it says: ORTA MB 48.4U101.011
              The 2 numbers I gave you above came from the stickers with the barcodes on them.
              Thank you. That would be a Wistron Orta 48.4U101.011.

              Here is a 48.4U101.0SA (slightly different revision) which is probably very close to what you have:
              http://lqv77.com/download/684/

              Power circuitry starts around page 40.

              About your hard drive: A board swap is likely not going to work. Stuff like bad block table locations and calibration constants are stored in EEPROM. If it works at all, it won't work for long and not very reliably. The 0A56511 is made by Renesas and all I can find is that it's a VCM / Motor Controller - no datasheets or other information at all. Very proprietary custom IC. It may be easier to find a data recovery specialist if you really want to recover the data. We hope the info gets leaked, but DR companies charge $$ for this stuff so they tend to be pretty tight about it.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                Wow, You are amazing!!! How did you find the schematics? I have been looking everywhere for them, but couldnt find them. Thank you so much, I am actually very greatful for this. As for as the hard drive goes, Yes, It is the motor controller, and if what you said is true about this particular IC containing custom-written/changeable parameters, than im lucky because I write EPrOM and Jtag code for my work. Thats what I needed to Know. See, I didnt wana swap my pcb with a doner, that rarely works now-adays, especially with Hitachi, no matter how close the mfg date of the boards are. See, Most new Hitachis have an 8-pin flash IC below the Entron, which contains drive-specific TOC and head/platter position information...Im so unlucky that my board happens to have 2 of these 8pin ICs lol. So what I wanted to do Is buy an exact donor PCB and TAke its motor control IC off of it and put it on mine. But since u said it programmable (which I actually didnt know, I feel stupid right now lol), I need to find a pin schematic, find its transfer pin, read the data set, and copy the info from mine onto the new one. I actually have tons of 80-Pin socket connectors for eeprom chips and pullers at work, ill just borrow one of each. but heres a question, I know my TVS are good because I cause the static shock beyond them, plus my pc didnt reboot when it happened, so im pretty sure theyre good. So since my Motor IC gets so hot, and the drive still spins up, maybe the motor IC is actually good, and I fried a cap or resistor, olr one of the 4 inductors. the faint screaming noise it makes in between clicks could be the wires in a bad inductor vibrating at a high frequency as it goes bad, right? What do you think? Hey thanks again for going through all this trouble to find the schematic for me. Here is some good news: On craigslist, I found a guy a few hours away that has an ACER 4420-5963 (Mine is an ACER 4420-5212) on sale for 45 bucks. He said the hard drive went, but the mainboard and screen worked before the hard drive went. Im hoping the mainboards are the same, I can pull components off it, or just swap mainboards until I fix mine. Im just super scared of the price...45 bucks is was too cheap for a working mobo and screen unless hes one of us (we generally sell our parts cheaper because we are doing it for knowledge, not for profit). So hopefully its not a scam because my motherboard alone goes 150 bucks

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                  Oh by the way, did Acer put the Part # 55.4U101.001 on top because the mainboard is actually made up of 2 different boards, the both of those boards together equal 55.4U101.001? Because the mainboard that I need info on (the one u gave me) is 48.4U101.011, and the unimportant piece (just the card reader) is Orta 48.4H004.011. So maybe Acer, for their inventory sake, took both those part numbers, and combined them into one complete part number (55.4U101.001)? Because There Is also 5 more part numbers I didnt give you. Why so many Acer grrrr. Anyways, I didnt give them to you because research on them pulled up either nothing, or the wrong Acer Laptop model and I didnt waste your time by making you sift through everything, then try to guess which chipset is mine lol. There is one more part number that I wana give you though for further reference, it is: MBTLD01001843E5AD32000. That brings up nothing, but if u cut the numbers off like the others (MBTLD01001), you get Acer Models close to mine like the 4220 or the 4520 for example. Anyways, I dont wana get you off track, I was just trying to see the humor in it all

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                    Im curious how these 2 parts, ISL6236, and the other IC get so hot just with the power plugged on. Its bugging me because something should be preventing current like that until I press the power button. As soon as I plug it in they get hot. That would indicate a bad resistor, correct?
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                      That means the standby circuit is drawing excessive current. The ISL6236 has a builtin linear regulator that outputs on the LDO pin with only 100mA maximum current. You can see from the schematic that 5V_AUX_S5 is connected to that. There are not that many parts powered from 5V_AUX_S5, but there is also 3D3V_AUX_S5 which powers the embedded controller. The other 5-pin part getting hot might be the 3.3V LDO (page 39 of schematic), which then suggests the short is in the 3.3V aux circuit.

                      The 0A56511 also controls the voice coil (head actuator). A huge burst of current is required at startup to pull it away from the parking magnet, and a partially shorted voice coil can cause it to draw more current while not being able to "unpark". The clicking sound is probably it trying to do this multiple times before giving up.
                      Last edited by b700029; 01-21-2012, 04:44 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                        I did see that in the schematic. Yes, Im fairly certain thats the clicking noise, but Im just curious about the noise its making inbetween the clicking. Its like a faint scream, click, faint scream. over and over again. It never makes it off park, at first I thought it was because The chip that tells the heads where to travel (Entron and heads contacts) was bad too, but what you are saying makes more sense. I did some research on the VCM, and I dont think Its the type of flash thats rewritable. Some types can only be written once, then other types take copius amounts of ultraviolet light to clear. I just wanted it up long enough to pull some files off, but I just dont think that is going to happen. nor is the data that important. In your opinion, do you think the static charge could have traveled through and damaged the preamp? Because if so, thats game over and not worth the headaches. At this point, I will consider my school work on that harddrive gone, and will try to recomplete it asap and rewrite the reports. I will as my prof. for an extension. I cannot take time off work, because we are nearing mid-quarter, and the testers are breaking my telecom teststations faster than I can fix them. Ive been at work for so long I actually have rash marks on my ankles an tops of my feet from the esd straps digging into them. too much ot. So inbetween classes ill just focus my time on the laptop. Ill buy new hdd an OS for desktop, then take my laptop drive and copy my school work on it, complete it, then turn it in so I dont have to redo all of it. Thank you for all the help B7, You are a life saver. The only thing about the schematic is that it has a different chipset, but other than that its pretty accurate.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                          My fiance and I just split up, I went to the storage unit to divide the furniture and cars. In the unit I found an old Acer Aspire One AOA150 that I bought her back in 2008. It has an Atheros wifi card that is plagued with problems. Dont ask how, but she managed to step on the laptop. It has onboard RAM 1GB. The only visible damage is 2 of the onboard RAM modules. If you can find the schematic for this I would be greatful. Its not necessary, its just something I can do to take my mind off things for a bit. Its a nice little notebook with a nice screen. The mobo model number is

                          A150 mainboard DA0ZG5MB8F0 P/N: MBS0506001

                          Anyways, if you have time, its not a big deal.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                            That would be a Quanta ZG5.

                            http://www.4shared.com/office/rGg8Xz..._-_REV_1A.html

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                              Thank You. Lol the power connector and plastic assembly is bent sideways lol I didnt notice that before. Ill have to resolder. I wish there was a way to bypass the onboard ram, and just use the ram installed in the socket, then I wouldnt even need to remove the 2 bad embedded modules and find/resolder new ones on. Im not even sure they sell them without having to buy like 1000, maybe I can buy a gpu and pull them off provided they are the same obviously

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                                My board is rev. F that diagram is rev. A, btw

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                                  I thought I put that up there, apparently not, my mistake

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                                    oh god, i just found out that the embedded ram modules are bga. That just took a simple fix and made it a nightmare. Any suggestions? There is not that many solder balls, and its pretty far away from other components....so....hot air gun? danger danger

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: Im an idiot, and so can you

                                      Originally posted by b700029 View Post
                                      That means the standby circuit is drawing excessive current. The ISL6236 has a builtin linear regulator that outputs on the LDO pin with only 100mA maximum current. You can see from the schematic that 5V_AUX_S5 is connected to that. There are not that many parts powered from 5V_AUX_S5, but there is also 3D3V_AUX_S5 which powers the embedded controller. The other 5-pin part getting hot might be the 3.3V LDO (page 39 of schematic), which then suggests the short is in the 3.3V aux circuit.

                                      The 0A56511 also controls the voice coil (head actuator). A huge burst of current is required at startup to pull it away from the parking magnet, and a partially shorted voice coil can cause it to draw more current while not being able to "unpark". The clicking sound is probably it trying to do this multiple times before giving up.
                                      On page 39, that IC is listed as U51. On my laptop U51 and all listed resistors in the circuit are physically missing from the PCB. The solder pads are there, the white slkscreen labels are there (it says U51 next to the 5 solder pads where the chip should be. Same for the included circuit resistors).

                                      Maybe this means just means that was a part of a revision change not reflected on this schematic??

                                      Also, the IC getting hot is labelled U73, which isnt even in the schematic (I ran search in pdf, pulled up matches for U12, U13, U74 etc, but no matches for U73)

                                      Anyways, the hot IC (U73) is located in between the connectors for the keyboard, touchpad, and fingerprint, int mic, and LED. (Directly underneath the Winbond WPC 8763LDG). Whats very suspicious is that the blank U51 is actually right next to that Winbond (same side, bottom left).

                                      Can you please help me sort this out? Is the aux 3.3v power used for those devices (keyboard, touchpad, mic, LED)? If so, maybe U51 is U73...


                                      To make things less confusing, Im only going to talk about the Acer 4420-5212 Extensa (Wistron_Orta) in this thread. The hard drive and other Acer laptop I will keep out
                                      Last edited by scuba03; 02-04-2012, 08:50 AM.

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