Original Xbox Replacement Caps

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  • jayjr1105
    replied

    Finally finished my full poly recap on a 1.2

    Click image for larger version

Name:	PXL_20240805_221005654.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	1.17 MB
ID:	3332461

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  • Dan81
    replied
    Figured out 1.1's VRM allows for 3x 3300uF caps, just like the subsequent "ATX" versions. Original configuration had 5x 1500uF KZEs. Included are also 4 of the 8 RAM chips that form the 128MB RAM mod.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240707_032145.jpg.d18ef39387cb4c82e8ab1dccf286880c.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	1.47 MB
ID:	3331828 Replacement caps are 3x 3300uF 6.3v Sanyo WG.

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  • stj
    replied
    using Lithium-vanadium or other rechargable cells in place of a super-cap can go boom.
    they have to be charged with a very low current.
    Attached Files

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  • gcrezz
    replied
    Originally posted by NeMesiS34
    I've been modding Original Xbox consoles for over ten years.
    As these things age I find myself becoming more of a refurbisher.

    The most common problem is the clock capacitor which tends to leak.
    This is illustrated in the first 2 attached pictures below.
    The faulty capacitor is a SuperStor 1F 2.5v SuperCap (console v1.0 to 1.5)
    It wasnt until the final Original Xbox version 1.6 that the cap was replaced,
    with a Nichicon 1F 2.5v Gold SuperCap, as seen in the 3rd picture.

    I came across and have been looking for replacement caps at "mouser.com"
    I've noticed that smaller caps like 22uf 25v have a life span of around 2000hrs
    Medium sized have life span of around 5 to 7k hrs and 10k for the largest (psu) caps.
    I'd like these console to last another decade, I'm considering replacing most,
    if not all caps on the motherboards and power supply units.

    The 4th picture is a Xbox version 1.0 motherboard (with cpu fan)
    13x 25v 22uf Nippon SMG
    6x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR
    3x 16v 1500uf Nichicon PW
    2*x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW
    1x 10v 680uf Nichicon PW
    5x 6.3v 1500uf Nippon KZE (6th picture)
    1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor

    The 5th picture is a Xbox version 1.1 motherboard (without cpu fan)
    13x 25v 22uf Nippon SMG
    6x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR
    3x 16v 1500uf Nichicon PW
    1*x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW
    1x 10v 680uf Nichicon PW
    5x 6.3v 1500uf Unidentified Solid Cap (7th picture)
    1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor

    My Questions:
    I have little experience and limited knowledge in regards to caps.
    1) Would i need to replace solid caps with other solid caps or can I use wet caps?
    2a) Would it be better to use caps with a higher ripple current and lower leakage current?
    2b) Would it be better to use Nichicon HD series over PW series?
    3a) Any advantage in using higher voltage caps whilst maintaining capacitance?
    3b) For example 22uf 50v over 22uf 25v or 1500uf 10v over 1500uf 6.3v, etc...
    4) What would be a better clock cap alternative to the SuperStor 1F 2.5v?

    Thanks in advance, Nemo
    As far as the supercaps themselves, you do not need to replace them on the 1.6 versions of the boards. If your looking to put something in there that's going to last a long time, I just scrapping the idea of using a call at all and instead install rechargeable lithium button batteries. The Sega CD model 1 used then and I have yet to open one up where they needed replaced and they're over 30 years old.

    Use aluminum caps, not wet.

    Hope this helps.

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  • gcrezz
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjr1105
    I found this interesting, an Xbox with two 3300uf Sanyo's and three 1500uf UCC KZE's. I've never seen them mixed like that before. Always five 1500uf's or three 3300uf's.
    Are you sure they haven't just been replaced?

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  • jayjr1105
    replied
    I found this interesting, an Xbox with two 3300uf Sanyo's and three 1500uf UCC KZE's. I've never seen them mixed like that before. Always five 1500uf's or three 3300uf's.
    Attached Files

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    probably not the 3300uf caps,
    this is where test gear is usefull - it may be a smaller cap or one related to the ram or nvidia chip.
    if the fox psu has any 1200uf caps on it - they may be suspect.
    that said, i'v not seen a u.s. one so it may be different from the 230v ones

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    I have 2 power supplies.
    My original is an NMB Technology.
    I also bought a replacement, it's a Foxlink.
    The guy that sold me the foxlink claims it's working fine and was tested.

    My Xbox behaves the same way using either supply, so I guessing it's still the system board.

    Is changing the 2 3300uf's a logical step forward?

    Thank-you,
    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    what caps are on the psu?
    is it delta or foxlink?

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  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    I ordered these that jayjr1105 suggested in a previous post:
    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...AAE014/6196333

    Yes the leads didn't match up the holes, that's why their hovering over the MB

    The xbox still has the original problem of FRAG, but sometimes will boot-up and work for a few minutes before freezing up.

    The 2 3300uf capacitors don't look bad, no leaks/Bulge. Can they be bad without any visual signs?

    Thank-you,
    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    what exactly is happening?
    and why does the picture look like you bent the legs outward on those polymer caps?
    did you order the wrong diameter ones? xbox needs 10mm caps

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    Hello,
    I'm still trying to get my 1.0 xbox working, but it's not there yet.
    Things I've changed so far:
    I've removed the clock cap and cleaned around it.
    Replaced the 5 1500uf CPU caps that were leaking on their tops.
    Tried a different power supply; no change.

    The next thing I'd like to replace are the 2 power supply caps near the power connector.
    The thing is they are 3300uf 10v caps (C1G1, C2F3) on my board.
    NeMesiS34's reference guide lists them as 2200uf- 10v, and in his pictures only used 2200uf- 6.3v.
    Shouldn't I at least use 2200uf 10v polymers or try to find 3300uf?

    Sorry I'm not that familiar with capacitor ratings.
    Michael F.
    Attached Files

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  • Per Hansson
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    See page 12 of the datasheet, first line is series, second is voltage withstand rating and production date.
    Third is capacitance.

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  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    Well I received the Caps from digikey from the link jayjr1105 posted.
    When looking at the picture from NeMesiS34 xbox 1.1 board, the numbers are a little different on the cpu caps then the one's I have.

    Example:

    His: K759 -- mine: K750 1st line
    his: 6.3T44 -- mine: 6.3V18 2nd line
    his: 1500 -- mine: 1500 3rd line

    Does it matter; just to be sure ?

    Thank-you,
    Michael F.
    Last edited by Mike.F; 07-02-2023, 08:50 AM.

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  • stj
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    well, it's not temperature controlled so it's a bit risky.
    use it fast - dont use the bulb, it wont work anyway.
    just melt the solder and rock the cap out - clean the hole(s) out later

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  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    So the 45watt de-soldering red bulb iron is safe; as in not too hot??
    Also thanks for the link at digikey.

    Michael F.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    you have no chance with 15w
    a 40w iron is still difficult.
    you may be able to do it with a 25w iron by clearing the holes with a stainless-steel needle

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjr1105
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    Originally posted by Mike.F
    Hello,

    Well after 20+ years my orig Xbox 1.0 finally started to Frag a couple of days ago.
    The 4 Caps near the Cpu are leaking from the top. (the right most cap isn't)
    The clock cap leaked all over the board too.
    I removed the clock one and cleaned up the MB using 91% rubbing alcohol with Q-tips.

    I couple of questions:
    Where do I buy the Cpu replacement caps? Links please. (I'm in NH, USA)
    Is a 15watt iron ok? That's what I used to remove the clock cap.
    I also have a 45watt de-soldering red bulb (radio shack) iron too, is that ok to clean the holes of solder? (I didn't use it yet)

    The pic shows the cpu caps, I removed the orange stuff leaking from the top to see the writing on them.

    Thank-you, Michael
    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...AAE014/6196333

    You may struggle with a 15w iron, especially when trying to clear the holes. You may have to use the wiggle in and out method heating the two holes off and on.
    Last edited by jayjr1105; 06-28-2023, 06:54 AM.

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  • Mike.F
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    Hello,

    Well after 20+ years my orig Xbox 1.0 finally started to Frag a couple of days ago.
    The 4 Caps near the Cpu are leaking from the top. (the right most cap isn't)
    The clock cap leaked all over the board too.
    I removed the clock one and cleaned up the MB using 91% rubbing alcohol with Q-tips.

    I couple of questions:
    Where do I buy the Cpu replacement caps? Links please. (I'm in NH, USA)
    Is a 15watt iron ok? That's what I used to remove the clock cap.
    I also have a 45watt de-soldering red bulb (radio shack) iron too, is that ok to clean the holes of solder? (I didn't use it yet)

    The pic shows the cpu caps, I removed the orange stuff leaking from the top to see the writing on them.

    Thank-you, Michael
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Original Xbox Replacement Caps

    Again, nice work NeMesiS34!

    Anyone else think this thread should be stickied?

    Seems like a common recapping solution has been found for pretty much any of these boards now.

    Leave a comment:

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