Acer AL1916W

[alexanna]

Re: Acer AL1916W

The dark green caps are Taicon.

I just finished replacing all the bad caps since I got the new ones today and still no power to the lights. LCD works, image shows up, green power light comes on, just no juice to the lights..

on the back side of the board,Is f200 good?
Al.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Also, what are the part numbers of

IC201 and IC202 (top side)

U101 and probably U102 (the other legged IC on the bottom side)

edit: And measure the resistance of the inverter transformer pins S1 to S2 and S3 to S4 (in circuit - power OFF and LCD unplugged) as per

http://lcdparts.net/TransformerDetai...ProductID=3360

Both should read around 650 ohms.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I just finished replacing all the bad caps since I got the new ones today and still no power to the lights. LCD works, image shows up, green power light comes on, just no juice to the lights..

Post another set of picutres again with the new caps installed. Top down view, both sides of the board.

[mscott03]

Re: Acer AL1916W

The dark green caps are Taicon.

I just finished replacing all the bad caps since I got the new ones today and still no power to the lights. LCD works, image shows up, green power light comes on, just no juice to the lights..

[BShanahan14rulz]

Re: Acer AL1916W

mscott, what brand were the dark-green caps? Don't take it apart if you already put it back together, but just curious...

[mscott03]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Thanks everyone, I already removed the caps from the board and placed an order with digikey - I will get the replacements installed asap and keep everyone posted!

[sabre504]

Re: Acer AL1916W

The board i am working on (same monitor and board)
the two resistors arrowed are soldered together

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I count 9... unless you are recommending not replacing the other cap that is laying on its side in the upper right hand corner?

I got that one. I missed the little guy CE107 next to the optoisolaters.

Wrog is correct. 9.

edit: Watching TV and try to count caps while scrolling the pic up and down does not make for accuracy! :-)

[Wrog]

Re: Acer AL1916W

edit: You should have 8 caps to replace.

I count 9... unless you are recommending not replacing the other cap that is laying on its side in the upper right hand corner?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Yeah there are a few that are bloated, should my first step be to replace those?

Not including the big one, 50% of your caps are obviously bad. There is no way your LCD will work like this.

Replace them ALL including the non bloated (except for th biggest one) following PlainBill's instructions at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...33&postcount=2

edit: You should have 8 caps to replace.

[mscott03]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Yeah there are a few that are bloated, should my first step be to replace those?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Let me know if you can see anything I cant..

You have 4 bloated capacitors! Chances are the others that are not bloated may be bad as well.

[Wrog]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Hey guys! I just got around to getting some good photos, and noticed only 1 thing with my eyes that may be wrong, it looks like two resistors (?) have solder touching them together (Marked with a red arrow). Let me know if you can see anything I cant..

Looks like the resistors are meant to be tied together. In the topside photo, my eyes could be playing tricks on me, but the cap in the upper right hand corner (to the right of the one laying down) looks like it's domed. Can you confirm?

[mscott03]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Hey guys! I just got around to getting some good photos, and noticed only 1 thing with my eyes that may be wrong, it looks like two resistors (?) have solder touching them together (Marked with a red arrow). Let me know if you can see anything I cant..

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I have an acer 2416W, same problem. Inverter board has 10 NKCON electrolytics, 4 of which are blown. I plan to replace all 10, just to be sure.

Since this is a different model number, I suggest you start or ask the mods to move this to its own thread. It is keeping track of all the details when there is more than one model in the same thread.

Yes, replace them all since 40% of them are obviously bad.

My particular caps read 35V 100uF and are labeled F2056 and EVL.

I've read that I'm fine with any capacitor 35V and above, but that I should try to match the capacity, which was 100uF. My question is, are there any other specs I need to match, and how do I know what they are?

Yes, you should try to match capacitance.

PCBONEZ always recommends looking at the old cap datasheet and then finding same or better characteristics. See his post at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...47&postcount=3

Edit: your search for replacement caps might lead you to this (make sure dimensions are okay)

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10294-ND

for $2.14 total in caps.

[BShanahan14rulz]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I have an acer 2416W, same problem. Inverter board has 10 NKCON electrolytics, 4 of which are blown. I plan to replace all 10, just to be sure.

From what I've found here, NKCON is taiwanese maker: Nakama.

My particular caps read 35V 100uF and are labeled F2056 and EVL. Same dimension ratio, color scheme, and failure mode (top vent fine, bottom plug popping out) as those in this post: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=88

Mine has 6 CCFL tubes, with a total 12 transformers all lined up in a row, very nice board layout, made by TDK. PN: TBD292LF You may have a similar board.

So, on to replacement.
I've read that I'm fine with any capacitor 35V and above, but that I should try to match the capacity, which was 100uF. My question is, are there any other specs I need to match, and how do I know what they are? I've seen ESR referenced, some kind of equivalent resistance value? How do I know what ESR would be best?

I'm very excited to be a member here, and I love the fix it yourself mentality, especially when one can get nice stuff for free that just needs new caps!

Well, off to do more reading! Thanks for any help you may have for my situation, and I hope I am not intruding too much in the OP's thread. After reading it, it looks like the OP and I have the same problem, more or less.

[jetadm123]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I guess I am just jumping to quick conclusions, and should probably test more. The LCD is working, just the lights arent turning on - does that mean the bridge rectifier is working properly?

Welcome to the forum! At this point, it could be anything: bad caps, fuse(s), transistor, etc.

Let's get back to the basics:

1) You say the LCD is working: does the the power light stay on even with the lights off? Can you see an image on the screen if you shine a flashlight on it? Any observations should be reported.

2) Photos of top and bottom of both boards would help. Multiple power supplies were used on this model. Post photos per link below:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868

3) Giving us photos and detailed observations will help us help you.

[sabre504]

Re: Acer AL1916W

Have this pdf for 1916w

[bravotronics]

Re: Acer AL1916W

I just found there might be a diference from the schematics I posted and your actual model, but the principle is the same, you can still use it as a guide.

[bravotronics]

Re: Acer AL1916W

If the fuse is blown, chances are you have a short on one or several of the main active components in the high voltage section of the power supply, either the MOV in the input, the rectifier bridge, or the FET in the switching regulator.
The best I can do for you is post the service manual and a part of the schematics so you can visualize these components and how they are interconnected. Try to trace the parts in the green rectangles and measure them with your multimeter in the 200 OHM scale according to the previous articles. I would remove these parts for accurate testing.