Help with dead Commodore 1802

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    it will work for the task, although a not-halogen bulb has slower inrush.
    So would have been better with a standard incandescent bulb like in a bedside lamp cos i thought about them but they are quite big still.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    it will work for the task, although a not-halogen bulb has slower inrush.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Yes its got U shape pins (see attached) and I had to solder them to a couple bits of wire I soldered into the holes the resisitor goes. I hope this will do.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    is that really a 240v lamp? i thought the ones with straight pins where 12v?

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Really good idea that STJ. I managed to get a nice little 240v 20w halogen bulb and removed the resistor soldering the bulb it its place.
    Before I power up the monitor I want to check this will do the job.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    yes, it will act like a resistor but instead of blowing it will just get brighter.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    yes,
    but it's a pain in the ass.
    replace the 10w resistor with a 15-25w lamp to save resistors,
    then remove the transformer T801 and see what happens.
    if the lamp goes full-on then we start to lift things 1 by one to find the cause.

    my suspicion is a diode is failing at full voltage but looking o.k. on a meter that only tests with about 3v
    i have seen this a number of times and it's a pain to track down.
    Thanks a lot STJ for that reply. That 15-25w lamp do you mean AC 240v bulb? like we use here.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    yes,
    but it's a pain in the ass.
    replace the 10w resistor with a 15-25w lamp to save resistors,
    then remove the transformer T801 and see what happens.
    if the lamp goes full-on then we start to lift things 1 by one to find the cause.

    my suspicion is a diode is failing at full voltage but looking o.k. on a meter that only tests with about 3v
    i have seen this a number of times and it's a pain to track down.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    desolder coil L808
    then you only have the psu running.
    the str device could be bad btw, you cant test those with a meter properly.
    I know this thread is a bit old now but I have to make a choice now what to do with this monitor, I did what you said STJ and the problem keeps being there is a short somewhere in the PSU which is still blowing the Wire wound resistor. I checked every component in the PSU which currenty has L808 removed and a light bulb soldered across C812 as you suggested.
    If I cant resolve this I will have no choice but to dump it which I absolutely hate doing to such rare items. Is there one last thing I can try before I have to give up?

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    desolder coil L808
    then you only have the psu running.
    the str device could be bad btw, you cant test those with a meter properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Please anyone how to I isolate everything except the PSU to trace this fault..

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    you can lift L808 to isolate the audio stage.

    im starting to wonder if the transformer could be breaking down, but few people have the equipment to check one,
    (although i do)

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    so a refresh of the facts,
    with the coil out and just the psu & audio sections running your still burning resistors??
    Yes thats right. Ive done as was said and checked all componnets in the PSU area for shorts incuding ceramics caps ansd cant find anything shorted. I wonder is there a way we can also isolate the audio section so we can just make sure its in the audio section.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    so a refresh of the facts,
    with the coil out and just the psu & audio sections running your still burning resistors??

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    yes, the coil is the link from the psu stage to the tube handling.
    it does not isolate the audio amplifier though.
    I am more than a bit stuck as to what I should be looking for now as there doesnt seem to be a component in the PSU area of the board thats short circuit.
    Do you think its in the PSU area that could be causing this or ius it in the Audio amp area? Can you point me where I should look for theis short next?
    Last edited by roadrash; 07-12-2019, 08:56 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj
    coils should look short - they are just a bit of wire,
    ceramic caps are a bastard, they can go short without external signs, and withstand a LOT of current.
    i have seen shorted ceramics blow tracks off the board!
    Sorry for delay in continuing with this but now we are in summer i've been swamped with work rebuilding motorcycles and their engines. I have 5 bikes still to do yet but they are awaiting parts so must get on with something else.

    Ok i've checked all components in the PSU area again including ceramics and all I could find causing a short was resistor R805 (0.27ohms) This was all I could find that could be responsible for that wire wound resistor to keep popping.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    coils should look short - they are just a bit of wire,
    ceramic caps are a bastard, they can go short without external signs, and withstand a LOT of current.
    i have seen shorted ceramics blow tracks off the board!

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    I only checked inside the marked area of the psu and didnt check the ceramic caps. I checked all diodes and electrolytic caps. I didn't know that ceramic caps went short circuit. It is ok when the coils (Lxxx) show as a short I think isn't it?

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    so no shorted diodes or ceramic caps?

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    I am not sure where to look now after not finding any shorted components in psu area of the pcb. Can you point where else I should check?

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • double_DD
    How can I be sure that my EC chip is dead?
    by double_DD
    Hi all,

    As the title suggests, how can I be sure that my EC chip is really dead?

    I've recently gotten into this hobby of laptop repairs, and have successfully brought back to life a couple with some easy fixes, mostly shorted caps.

    Now I'm working on HP Probook 455 G8, that had some "devil" run around on 3V line, burning a bunch of stuff. Luckily I have a dead 455G7 (for spare parts) so I managed to fix it (swapped burned parts) to a point that it will charge (both on barrel jack and usb-c), but it doesn't want to turn on. There is a 3V3 on a keyboard...
    03-12-2025, 07:47 AM
  • disorder
    ps5 edm-033 dead after hdmi/usb ports destroyed
    by disorder
    hello guys,

    i need help to repair a edm-033 ps2
    history : as always hdmi port and usb ports destroyed after unplugged
    after change them, ps5 dead too : 1 beep, no blue light. after inspection 1.8v power was shorted, and because of dead panasonic chip. after remove it : no short anymore
    so i changed it
    now i have got 5v stby,, 3.3v stby, 3.3v power, 1.8v power and no short on them
    but the ps5 is dead again : 1 beep, near 10 seconds with power lines and then off, no blue light ...

    i don't see any projection of liquid metal on pcb.
    ...
    01-14-2025, 12:48 PM
  • Beton
    Finding a dead short component
    by Beton
    Hi guys!
    I searched for the term "dead short" in the forum but no specific thread came up however if I'm just blind and couldn't see the thread talking about this please forward me to that direction.
    So my problem is I don't know how to find the source of a dead shorted voltage rail. Dead short = ~0 ohm resistance.
    I have two VGAs (HD 4850 and HD 4870), both dead shorted to ground on the memory rail. I have the boardview file for the 4870 and the memory rail consists around ~7892346 capacitors...
    I have a bench PSU and if I try to inject voltage the voltage...
    12-10-2021, 01:05 PM
  • zunasthegreat
    Chieftec GPS-450-AA with dead 20N60C3
    by zunasthegreat
    Hello everyone hope all doing well!
    I have this PSU (GPS450-AA delta oem) around for like 4-5 years and I had it recapped early 2020 or 2021 with mostly UCC KY and Nichicon PW's. The bulk was and still is fine, the original Ltec's were bloated and empty. The previous issue was some major coil whine noise and at times random shutdowns when going idle. Today it started tripping the mains breaker and I think I have dead APFC mosfets (20N60C3). Right now upon checking I have the Q1 and Q3 FETs dead so far and I guess those are responsible for the PFC circuit. The only thing I care is If there...
    09-01-2024, 07:12 PM
  • FiguringITout
    MSI Raider GE75 - Not posting, probable dead CPU
    by FiguringITout
    Hello, today I'm working on this lovely MSI Raider GE75 gaming laptop which I bought to flip. Unfortunately, I believe the CPU is toast but I wanted a second opinion before I chucked it into my spare parts bin. I will not have most tools with me today as I'm away from my workbench but I have the basics (a good multimeter, a horrible iron, a solid screwdriver, and my trusty thermal cam). I do not have the original 230w charger, but I have a Dell 180w which was sold with the device and reportedly "worked fine for them".

    Specs: I7-10750H, RTX 2060, 32GB RAM (unknown manufacturer)...
    07-25-2024, 07:27 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...