It's been a long time since I have soldered... Is this a bad job? If so how can I fix it?
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Repairing a vx2235wm
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Abester000 View PostIt's been a long time since I have soldered... Is this a bad job? If so how can I fix it?
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
I don't see any problem.
The two lines of solder right under the capacitor C201 (i think, the last digit is not visible) are covering that large copper area which is probably ground.
See the picture, the hole where you soldered that is connected directly to those other two holes and that large copper area, so if you think the solder is not reliable, you can use a bit of wire to connect the pin to one of those two other pins directly.
Your problem i think is that you're not using extra flux and that your solder iron may not heat to the level required. Extra flux would really help everything but you can do without.
Let the iron heat up and when it's properly hot add some lead solder to the tip then gently apply the tip on the lead and keep it there until the solder around the pin goes liquid, then add a bit of solder so that the flux inside the solder wire will insure proper job.
Don't press, don't rub against it violently, the solder you put on the tip has the job to transfer the heat.
When everything looks properly liquid around the lead, just lift the tip and let the solder cool down. Everything should take about 5-7 seconds if you do it right.
If the copper around the hole is broken, put a bit of wire between the lead and the other two holes and solder that wire in place.
You could try to put some solder on the wire before (heat the wire, put solder wire between tip and wire, solder should become liquid and spread on the wire by itself... just rub the solder wire a bit on the wire and it should tin itself)
Add solder to whatever solder is already on the board, the lead free solder on board melts at high temp (217c approx) and is oxidized so your solder iron will have a hard time melting it without a bit of flux or solder already on the tip to make a bridge between the tip and the existing solder.
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by mariushm View PostI don't see any problem.
The two lines of solder right under the capacitor C201 (i think, the last digit is not visible) are covering that large copper area which is probably ground.
See the picture, the hole where you soldered that is connected directly to those other two holes and that large copper area, so if you think the solder is not reliable, you can use a bit of wire to connect the pin to one of those two other pins directly.
Your problem i think is that you're not using extra flux and that your solder iron may not heat to the level required. Extra flux would really help everything but you can do without.
Let the iron heat up and when it's properly hot add some lead solder to the tip then gently apply the tip on the lead and keep it there until the solder around the pin goes liquid, then add a bit of solder so that the flux inside the solder wire will insure proper job.
Don't press, don't rub against it violently, the solder you put on the tip has the job to transfer the heat.
When everything looks properly liquid around the lead, just lift the tip and let the solder cool down. Everything should take about 5-7 seconds if you do it right.
If the copper around the hole is broken, put a bit of wire between the lead and the other two holes and solder that wire in place.
You could try to put some solder on the wire before (heat the wire, put solder wire between tip and wire, solder should become liquid and spread on the wire by itself... just rub the solder wire a bit on the wire and it should tin itself)
Add solder to whatever solder is already on the board, the lead free solder on board melts at high temp (217c approx) and is oxidized so your solder iron will have a hard time melting it without a bit of flux or solder already on the tip to make a bridge between the tip and the existing solder.
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
All that dark green stuff surrounded by red in the picture above is a single surface of copper under that protective coating.
The straight thick lines of solder are applied over bits of copper that are left without protective coating, in order to increase the current carrying capability of the traces.
I don't know if I can explain it in a simpler way, all that dark green surface is like a thin very flat wire which gets warm when current flows through it. By putting those solder stripes over the copper, it's like taking another thin wire and wrapping it around the original wire, making it thicker and cooler.
So the hole where you put the component, the one circled in light green, is tied to the same copper area where those other two holes the light green lines point to.
It looks like you kept the solder iron a bit too much on those bits of solder applied over the copper and maybe tore a bit of copper foil with it. But it's not really a problem, all that dark green stuff is the same foil of copper.
If you somehow removed the copper around the hole along with those stripes of solder, then it's possible you can no longer solder the reliably to the "wire", the dark green surface at that exact point.
But since that hole is connected to the same wire those other two holes are connected to, you can just use a bit of wire to make the connection to one of the other two solder points, it's the same thing. It doesn't matter where exactly on the "wire" you solder the component.
Maybe this picture makes sense
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
If your not used to soldering using leaded solder would be easier.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by mariushm View PostAll that dark green stuff surrounded by red in the picture above is a single surface of copper under that protective coating.
The straight thick lines of solder are applied over bits of copper that are left without protective coating, in order to increase the current carrying capability of the traces.
I don't know if I can explain it in a simpler way, all that dark green surface is like a thin very flat wire which gets warm when current flows through it. By putting those solder stripes over the copper, it's like taking another thin wire and wrapping it around the original wire, making it thicker and cooler.
So the hole where you put the component, the one circled in light green, is tied to the same copper area where those other two holes the light green lines point to.
It looks like you kept the solder iron a bit too much on those bits of solder applied over the copper and maybe tore a bit of copper foil with it. But it's not really a problem, all that dark green stuff is the same foil of copper.
If you somehow removed the copper around the hole along with those stripes of solder, then it's possible you can no longer solder the reliably to the "wire", the dark green surface at that exact point.
But since that hole is connected to the same wire those other two holes are connected to, you can just use a bit of wire to make the connection to one of the other two solder points, it's the same thing. It doesn't matter where exactly on the "wire" you solder the component.
Maybe this picture makes sense
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Abester000 View Postso you literally want me to use a wire and link the cap with the burned part of the board... with the other one to the right?Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
So... long story short... the capacitor i had in there started smoking and popped... I managed to get Panasonic 220uF 25V FC Panasonic Capacitors.... and i put one in.... And its still doing the same thing i previously mentioned. The monitor still goes black randomly.... But it is operating fine other than that. Any idea's as to what is the cause of this?
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Abester000 View PostSo... long story short... the capacitor i had in there started smoking and popped... I managed to get Panasonic 220uF 25V FC Panasonic Capacitors.... and i put one in.... And its still doing the same thing i previously mentioned. The monitor still goes black randomly.... But it is operating fine other than that. Any idea's as to what is the cause of this?
Also replace all caps, just because one is bulged doesn't mean the others are ok, they can look fine and still be bad.
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Mad_Professor View PostDid you put it in backwards? They do have a polarity, usually the color vertical line on the cap indicates the ground lead on the cap itself.
Also replace all caps, just because one is bulged doesn't mean the others are ok, they can look fine and still be bad.
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Abester000 View PostOh to answer your question if I put it on backwards... On the board it's self trees a - and a side with black... On the capacitor that solid line going up and down I put that on the negative side.
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by Abester000 View PostSo... I just replaced all the capacitors, and the problem is still happening... The monitor just goes black with the blue light staying on. I noticed that the top of the monitor is really warm. Is this normal? Any other suggestions as to why this is happening?
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
If you mean the BIG cap 400 or 450v it is probably ok.
When you have the set on with the blue power light on and a black screen
with a pc connected to it showing a vivid picture can you see a very dark inage of it on the screen - perhaps shining a flashlight at an angle may helpPlease upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by selldoor View PostIf you mean the BIG cap 400 or 450v it is probably ok.
When you have the set on with the blue power light on and a black screen
with a pc connected to it showing a vivid picture can you see a very dark inage of it on the screen - perhaps shining a flashlight at an angle may help
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
OK if you look in post 2 there is a link about 2 seconds to black - read that (start at post19) I think you should check the inverter transformer/s first. If you need help
where to test you will need to post pictures of the Front and back of your power supply.
Welcome to the forum-
We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back (in the same orientation) and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...6&d=1280167246
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...4&d=1280167246Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740
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Re: Repairing a vx2235wm
Originally posted by selldoor View PostOK if you look in post 2 there is a link about 2 seconds to black - read that (start at post19) I think you should check the inverter transformer/s first. If you need help
where to test you will need to post pictures of the Front and back of your power supply.
Welcome to the forum-
We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back (in the same orientation) and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...6&d=1280167246
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...4&d=1280167246
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