Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Here is a circuit diagram for the power supply

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

the ones you have me reading are all turned into eachother and pushed up against eachother, it looked like 100uf when i wrote it down this time too but i noticed antoher 0 just as i was about to turn the flashlight off..

Glad you mentioned somethin about the 200uf, looked REAL hard, keep in mind im tryin to see this without touchin anything all plugged together cause not sure if it has power..
but i finally saw 10v 2200uf..

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

by the way thats the 245B not the 245bw, i notice theres some differences already in the pin layouts...

I have a heat gun that goes from 100-1100f high/low blow settings, also a digital heat reader gun too if that was ever needed..

Have Soldered before, but only about maby 50 components worth... in about 3 different occasions over the last 10 years..

i have a nice soldering iron (replacement for crap i bought origionally) and a iron-pump-sucker also a holder with magnifying glass...

Checkin all the caps now.. Will Edit with results (All round black caps, not sure if theres a different style im suppose to look for too)

50v 47uf x3
50v 22uf
50v 1uf
50v 10uf
50v 100uf
35v 1000uf x2
63v 68uf

Also The bank of 4
10v 2200uf x2
10v 1000uf x2

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

The resistors were kinda hard to figure out so i just wrote down the colors, i couldnt even be sure of which side to start on, they all seemed equally spaced and bands on both wide ends makin it hard for my newbie self to recognize... heres what i saw tho

Black Yellow Green Black Grey
Red Red Silver Gold (22.8? or .22 5% tolerance?)
Blue Green Yellow Puke? Black (Looks like light green/puke color, not quite sure)
Yellow Yellow Red Gold (44.2?)
Grey Black Yellow Gold (80.4?)
White Gold Gold Black Grey
White Gold Black Blue Yellow
Yellow Blue Black Gold (46k?)

3x Blue Silver Black Gold (common fault 68's) - those were easy to read, i didnt even know which ones they were when i looked them up, donno why the others were so hard for me to read.. i put my guesses, tryin to learn but the ones i didnt even try - i had no clue about..

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Think I misled you with the resistor - I meant a loose one - nothing to do with this set.

You can use it to tap the 5volt standby voltage into the pson.

I think the swollen caps and possible the 50v ones on the primary side need replacing to provide the required voltage to the pson.

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Im sure i have a 1k resistor in my 500 in 1 electronics kit that i was tryin to use to learn awhile back...

But i have a radio shack less than a mile away from my house too, i could grab one from them..

Tho i dont know what you mean by "tap the 5v standby into the pson" im assuming you mean use it as a jumper but not sure where or what to expect from it or do after..

What should the PSON Read if everything was working? -- curious incase the lamps come on...

Ahh crap, one of my 10v 2200's was misread too, only one of those in the bank of 4, the other is a 35v 470uF (so squished together i missed it fairly easily)

When you say 50v on primary side, which ones are you refering to, cuase theres quite a few 50v... - so would it make sense that just those 2 slightly bulged caps would cause it to work sometimes and not others, what gives the thought that a 50v may be an issue with no sign of damage? sorry for askin so many questions... curious to understand..

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Something i just noticed when i got it in the right light, hadnt been lookin at this board that closely yet, the board next to power board inside metal backing looks like something was spilled on it, almost like a grease but its not soft or liquid, its hard, spiderweb/mountain-range/reverse-waterspot looking - similar to when you put on a new component and it looks like the board is kinda burnt until you clean it only quite a bit lighter and a lil harder to see and across the whole board - when scratched off it looks perfect underneith but i only scratched a spot with fingernail to see if it was the board or somethin on it, it seems like something on it...

What should i use to clean it without damaging it, would like to do that and try it out a few times and see if any positive result..

But id love to hear any other possible things to try as well...

Would it be a bad idea to buy the caps from radio shack? (or are they prob going to be to low of quality?) - i could take a 50m drive down to frys, never been there and always wanted to see the place anyways hehehe

lemme kno whatcha think... also id love information to pick a good ESR meter and maby a few NOT to buy, incase i goto frys and try to pick one up...i dont see any harm in getting on for future problems too unless you have a reason to highly suggest against it..

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Pson usually needs 3-5v and yes you use the resistor to jump the two pins then press power on button and the lamps should come on.

The hairdryer trick (you could use your hot air gun) if very careful, is to have it all set up
but do not press the power on button. heat the area where those four caps are, gently does it, then press the power on. Warm caps sometimes work better so its worth a try to see if that is the problem.
DO NOT BUY CAPS AT RADIO SHACK **. Resistors diodes and other items are often ok
(IF they have them) There are various lists on here of caps you need with the digikey
part numbers - that will be the next step you can look - just type 245BW + digikey
might find them or 245bw then use search within thread for 1000uf might find them.


**NOR FRYS

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

IPA Isopropyl Alcohol seems to shift most things without doing much damage- if you do use it remember to let it dry off thoroughly - may be just flux?

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Wondering, you said use the resistor to jump the 2 pins, whats suppose to be plugged together at this point? everything? casue im use to jumpin pins inside the connector not outside, just wasnt sure if all the boards are suppose to be together or not (all the ribbon cables)

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

When i turn on the board without jumping, i get 3.5v on the 5v-Standby that grows to ~4.2 then i think its still going up but VERY slowly and PSON stays at 0, when i use the jump the 5v Standby i get this

1 PSON 2.8
2 SB 4.2
3 GND 0
4 GND 0
5 GND 0
6 NC 0
7 NC 0
8 NC 0
9 GND 0
10 GND 0
11 GND 0
12 5.2 5.2
13 5.2 5.2
14 5.2 5.2
15 NC 0
16 NC 0

17 BL 4.7
18 SOS 0.1-0.2
19 A_DIM 2.7-2.8
20 PS/T_DIM 1.1
21 DBT 5.2

AND Backlight came on (it didnt a few times, but i think its cause i had a weak connection on the jumper, im tryin to just hold it in place with tweezers while i press the button (bein careful not to touch the leads)

I would guess that would be a fairly good sign pointing to a problem, but i dont know much! hehe i tried the heat idea, heat gun had to be up to 400f to even put out a warm air, i blew on it for a bit and tried to turn on, no luck but i dont know if i got it hot enough atall and i dont wanna do damage with it, i could use the heat meter but i donno what temp to try to get them up to..

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

OMFG
So i noticed something when i was attempting to turn the monitor on/off with the LED Button in the front, this whooooooole fkin time ive been workin on it (sense the ribbons have been together) the LCD has been face down on the table and i put my finger on the button and realized that the table was keepin it stuck pushed in, so i put a piece of tissue under the bezel next to power button, hit main power switch, hit the LED button a few times and it was on/off/on/off/on/off..... took a second for the backlights to come on but they came on 3-4 times in a row....

So after typeing that, i went and tried again and got the blacklight once then several times with no backlight or any use to the LED switch...

what i have noticed, if i dont do the jump (or if the PSON doesnt get enough power) i dont get 5.3v on that connector and on the other connector i lose 24v and the 3.5v stays on SOS, when the backlight works i think the 3.5v goes to BL and 0.0 to SOS..

Also when no power on PSON i dont get readings on the 5pin small ribbon (17-21 above)
while when i do get the power i get DBT at 5.2 and SOS at 3.5

If i were to guess, it seems like the SB doesnt quite hit 5v, if its suppose to that could be one problem
Then PSON seems to want 4v+ (or seems to work when it does have that)
So jumping doesnt always work either casue i dont have 5v to give to PSON..

Does this assumption seem correct? if so what would be the likely cause to those problems?

Thank you so much, im learning alot and im spendin ALOT of the day, even when not responding, testin over and over and over, retrying tests you asked before to make sure they are still the same ect... im just waitin for another backlight to come on so i can do a 100% retest while on...

Otherwise, what shall i do next...
Thanks again..
..Patrick

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

You need to be getting your shopping list together to replace the caps.
I would say replace them all there are only around 13? Big cap should be ok.

Should be about $10 plus postage Here is part of someones list to get you started - did you find any lists? I think there should also be a 47uF 50v
Digi-Key
Qty Part No. Description
1 P14452-ND CAP ALUM 22UF 50V 20% RADIAL
1 P14454-ND CAP ALUM 100UF 50V 20% RADIAL
1 P14441-ND CAP ALUM 470UF 35V 20% RADIAL
2 P14378-ND CAP ALUM 1000UF 10V 20% RADIAL
2 P14445-ND CAP ALUM 1000UF 35V 20% RADIAL
1 P14401-ND CAP ALUM 1800UF 16V 20% RADIAL
Subtotal $5.71

What does the power led do at the various times.
does it stay on even if the screen is black.

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

power led doesnt come on unless backlights do from what ive noticed, tho its possible it has (its face down remember)

and yea i have 3x 47uf 50v... god i hate the idea of replacing that many...chances of failure are much higher the more i do.. if i bought an ESR meter would that allow me to find out the real problem before actually starting to try soldering? also are there any brands of ESR to stay away from or good ones to get?

thanks..

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

The more you replace the easier it get and the better/quicker you become. You stand more chance of failing with the first two than the rest. If I have not done soldering for a while and get going I have even taken the first few back out cleaned up the board and put them back.

ESR meter- I will just say what I usually say ( I dont have one) If you are doing this as a business or say a full time hobby fixing 1 item a week/2weeks then it may be worth the 70-100 dollars outlay. The results are not always conclusive - it doesnt "Ping" and say good cap/ bad cap and you may still have to take the caps out of the board to test. (soldering being your current fear) You have to interpret the results. Say you find half the caps are good ( usually the smaller cheaper ones) you still have to replace the rest some of which you already know are bad because they are leaking/bulged. So how much have you saved?
Postage is the main cost so if you buy replacements for the middle range
caps and the postage is $3 then a month later the other caps you didnt replace fail (despite testing ok originally) thay are after all the same age
and in the same hot environment as those which have failed, then it another $3 postage and getting the set open! and re practising your soldering wheras you could have bought another six caps for that $3 with the first order.

If you are wanting advice in the future from here then I would urge you tolook on ebay instead for a used, as new, camera with macro doesnt need to be expensive as long as it will do 2000*2000 and have a macro(Close up) mode.

Order your caps and while waiting for them spend some time with your soldering iron - just soldering wires to tin cans and each other is good practice.

Now you are more familiar with your monitor you could read through the megathread on 245bw and try any tests we may have missed. Most of it seems to be ok just the startup voltages are not good which may be due to the caps or voltage regulators. If its not the caps (although 2 are known to be dodgy) then we will test the regulators.

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Is it possible that the problem is commin from the board next to power board in metal backing? (not the ballast board but the only other one heh)

Also can the regulators be checked before the caps are replaced?

If anyone is willing to help me verify these parts, the list starts with someone elses partial list and the ???? are my added needs and attempts to find. i have a large fear of accidently ordering the wrong parts.

Are the parts already picked good quality parts?
Heres a good pic of the same board i have, if you need to see a visual of the parts for any reason
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1327123373
And Also a Schematic that seems to be identical
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...8&d=1346612309


1: ???????--?? - 50v 1uf -- P13460-ND (Attempts to find, correct?)
1: ???????--?? - 50v 10uf -- P13478-ND
1: P14452-ND - 50v 22uf
3: ???????--?? - 50v 47uf -- P13464-ND
1: P14454-ND - 50v 100uf

2: P14378-ND -10v 1000uf
1: ???????-?? -10v 2200uf -- P12357-ND

2: P14445-ND - 35v 1000uf
1: P14441-ND - 35v 470uf

1: ???????--?? - 63v 68uf -- P10341-ND (this one only had a 2000hrs at 105c instead of 5000hrs like others, interesting :P)

14 Elec Caps total...
If someone could please Verify those parts for me, i would greatly appreciate it

Advise on a good camera would be helpful too, every time i buy one it turns out to be a piece of crap reguardless of ratings ect, never been happy so i had givin up on tryin to find a good camera..

Thanks again..
...Patrick

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Is it possible that the problem is commin from the board next to power board in metal backing? (not the ballast board but the only other one heh)

Always a possibility

Also can the regulators be checked before the caps are replaced?

Not Really - you can go ahead and check them but we alredy know some of the voltages are not right and some of the caps are bad so the result from the regulators may be flawed.

Here is how to test
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=261329

1... 1: ???????--?? - 50v 1uf -- P13460-ND (Attempts to find, correct?)
2... 1: ???????--?? - 50v 10uf -- P13478-ND
3... 1: P14452-ND - 50v 22uf
4... 3: ???????--?? - 50v 47uf -- P13464-ND
5... 1: P14454-ND - 50v 100uf

6... 2: P14378-ND -10v 1000uf
7... 1: ???????-?? -10v 2200uf -- P12357-ND

8... 2: P14445-ND - 35v 1000uf
9... 1: P14441-ND - 35v 470uf

10... 1: ???????--?? - 63v 68uf -- P10341-ND (this one only had a 2000hrs at 105c instead of 5000hrs like others, interesting :P)

14 Elec Caps total...

The ones you have picked may do I dont know what EB series is I and most people on here use FR FM and FC in that order so I would use

1 P10312-ND
2 P10316-ND
4 P10321-ND
7 P14382-ND

And the last one you have correct.

Just so as you know I am going away for a few weeks so hopefully others will help - just keep jogging the thread if you need assistance

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Yea i couldnt find FR in the list of series... i ended up searching by Panasonic/20%/Radial-Can/40-105c/5000hrs 105c/Through Hole/General Purpose/Alum (2000hrs 105c on last one, prob the reason i found the dif part, the rest of the time i only got one option heh)

Thank you VERY much for the help, thanks for checkin the parts, as i thought i woulda ordered wrong...
...Patrick

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Forgot to say you need to check the physical size - you said they were close packed so you dont want to be getting any bigger diameter.

[Ober]

Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

Is there by chance a 245bw owner that could chime in on this? i really dont wanna end up with a wrong part, install it not knowing, then assume it doesnt work for whatever reason..

1. 1x - P10312-ND - 50v 1uf
2. 1x - P10316-ND - 50v 10uf
3. 1x - P14452-ND - 50v 22uf
4. 3x - P10321-ND - 50v 47uf
5. 1x - P14454-ND - 50v 100uf

6. 2x - P14378-ND -10v 1000uf
7. 1x - P14382-ND -10v 2200uf

8. 2x - P14445-ND - 35v 1000uf
9. 1x - P14441-ND - 35v 470uf

10. 1x - P10341-ND - 63v 68uf


PLEASE, if someone could verify that order id greatly appreciate it... Also picking a quality Solder and/or anything else i might need while working thats not common (i have a iron-sucker, iron with round & chisel tips, crappy radio shack flux solder - doesnt even say % that i can see, some braid for special situations, 4 arm board holder with magnifying glass and sponge, coil stand with sponge, silver trace pen, cleaner pen... i may have missed a thing or two, but thats most of whats in my soldering box)

i assume using radio shack solder with unknown %'s cant be that great...

This is my most uncomfortable stage, if someone could please get me through the order id greatly appreciate it.....
Thanks
...Patrick