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    Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

    hehe that sounds nice but is there chance that it could not work, the concept makes sense in series but i donno how electronics work that well heh? if so then id rather go with the safest bet (and by that im hoping the 1watt is not an issue in replacement from 1/2watt? or is that about equal chance of failure as the 200ohm piece) , going nuts without this monitor, only reason i havent pushed to get this done faster is cause im debating 27" PLS Samsungs's hehe, but i donno if i could power that with 580sli (1.5g) or upgrade to 680sli (4gb extra vram for the extra rez) with my i7 930 cpu, not sure if either is enough or if its plenty, but i really wanted to push that in 3D :P heh ... i keep finding conflicting reports that say the 580 is better for higher rez than 680 and others that argue the 680 owns the 580 in any way and is meant for large rez specifically ect... no idea which to believe or if i could power 7680x1440 or 7680x1600....

    Thanks for all the help again, monitor is patiently awaitin me takin up alot of my desk space so i need ot get movin on it sooner or later no matter what i do with it...

    ...Patrick

    Comment


      Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

      Hi - Back from various trips to a load of repairs - one monitor gone out- Printer not printing - tablet bricked - sons door got jammed so he cut it in half to open it!!
      so have had a busy couple of weeks since we got back.
      - Cant believe your still working on this-
      The 68 ohm 1 watt are ideal and are in stock at digikey - The halfwatt ones tend to overheat.
      Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

      Comment


        Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

        I only fixed three of them using 200 Ohms resistors 2W, as long as you can understand voltage, current, resistance then it will be no problem, you can do a lot of mod if you understand how it works. You can easily calculate the power drop on three 68 Ohms resistor in series by checking the voltage drop. Last time I check, it was less than 1/2W on each 68 Ohms resistor.
        Never stop learning
        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

        Inverter testing using old CFL:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

        TV Factory reset codes listing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

        Comment


          Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

          being a noob im gona stick with the 68ohm 1watt, but i did like the idea of the 200ohm and makes sense logically and less contacts to be made..

          yea, selldoor, i cant believe i dont have that monitor back up and running either, ive been either sick, playing some GW2 or researching the 27" PLS Samsungs debating moving up from these 245bw... i love my 245's but the S27A850D and S27B970D models are lookin preeeeetty nice right about now, specially with the $200 price drop on the 970 recently.... i think ill prob end up with 3x S27A850D's and 2-3x GTX680's 4GB (hoping 2 is enough for good settings but no idea if 3 is even really enough for 7680x1440 yet)... god, and to think i could prob save myself a good $4000 by just fixin this thing before i make a purchace heh :P

          Comment


            Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

            God Damnit! now other parts are out of stock, how hard is it for a company to keep stock of tiny parts? shesh... well im gettin discouraged with every time i want to order theres a new piece to be switched out, by the time i get that figured out or some workaround and i get rdy to order again smething else goes out of stock, and i cant just replace with something else caue i have no clue so back to asking for help and if posible can i get a full order ready for me so i can just purchace and go, with the right parts.. gettin so frustrated with digikey i could throw this damn monitor out the window


            The 2 replacement parts and the 68ohm's are in this list

            9___1 1189-1660-1-ND__ CAP ALUM 22UF 50V 20% RADIAL_____ 1 Immediate 0 0.30000 $0.30
            10__ 2 P15382CT-ND____ CAP ALUM 1000UF 35V 20% RADIAL___ 2 Immediate 0 1.32000 $2.64
            11__ 3 68W-1-ND_______ RES 68 OHM 1W 5% METAL OXIDE_____ 3 Immediate 0 0.24000 $0.72

            Also, hope thye are right, cause order HYAS BEEN MADE! hehe, need to clean up that desk space if anything and will prob be using this 2d surround system as either a 2x3 6screen setup or 2 seperate surround systems :P
            Last edited by Ober; 11-06-2012, 09:34 AM.

            Comment


              Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

              Well i got my parts, now to see if im competent enough :P heh

              Comment


                Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                Keeps us posted.

                Comment


                  Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                  Hadnt had the time to put forth into the actual project yet but ive been doin my practice on an old CRT board, pullin components off and puttin them back on, one thing ive noticed is with a Wedge tip, i can REALLY quickly solder them back on but it tends to burn the PCB a little at the point i touch the wedge down (probably cause of how much surface area is touchin the board) -- when i use the point tip i have trouble sometimes getting to the "hot spot" with the solder and sometimes i end up taking many tries heating to actually get the solder right causing me to leave the iron on the board and component much longer but when i do manage to hit the hit spot right it still takes longer than with the wedge... the wedge its literally a touch wedge, touch solder, pick up...
                  with point im like, touch - hold 1-2 secs - touch tip of solder and move around to find hot spot where solder feeds in and sometimes even a sec for the solder to round up around the component.... just not sure which is the best way to go, seems like i have more chance of damaging the PCB with wedge and more chance of damaging the component with the point... i did notice some of the test components i took off that had thicker leads and didnt seem to try to avoid thermal issues got REALLY hot when i took them off... id go to grab the piece and pull it out and it would slightly burn my finger, with the Caps i took off the leads were only like 1cm and they were warm not hot to the touch when removed... so those seemed to tolerate the heat better than some of the "perfect circle tube looking resistors" hehe


                  any input would be appreciated... the welds are looking very pretty, round and shiny, but i dont like the brown/burn marks on my pcb, not sure if the browning tho is minor enough to not cause a problem, if so then the wedge is the way to go cause im so much faster with it... wish i had a 1/2 size wedge heh..

                  Comment


                    Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                    What is the Wattage of your soldering iron? 40Watts will be the minimum. One trick for removing component from the board is to ADD solder to what you are trying to remove.
                    Never stop learning
                    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                    Inverter testing using old CFL:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                    TV Factory reset codes listing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                    Comment


                      Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                      well i have a sucker iron, the removal is really easy and doesnt seem to do any harm..

                      look like i have 45watt iron and 45 watt sucker iron..

                      Comment


                        Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                        CRAP - so i was workin really well, about 50% done, then i solder a piece in an notice its REAAAAAAAALLLLLY close to another soldering spot, not sure if it was touching, looked like it was, so i put the wick between and hit the spot for a sec, it cleaned up prob to the point i should have stopped, but then i thought it was still to close so i went ahead and tried to suck up ALL the solder and reapply and now theres just a section of solder on the board i cant seem to pull up that connects those 2 components that never were connected before, tryin to figure out how to clean the solder flat to the board between the 2 connections so i can reapply to them cleanly.... these pads are SMALL and they made a mess the first time so the small messy pads nearly all touch..

                        Comment


                          Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                          Close up picture of the problem?
                          Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

                          Comment


                            Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                            well still no camera... BUT

                            IT WORKS IT WORKS YEA YEA YEA IT WORKS!!!!

                            i successfully replaced all those components and the monitor is now in fully working order! WOOOTT!!! i made 2-3 more mistakes similar to above, where 2 solder points touched (casue my wedge tip was definately a lil to big) but i used the wick, sucked up what i could, looked like they were still touchin with "solder flake" stuck to the board but i just did my best to redo the connections and tested it out and WALAA!

                            all the caps and the 3 68ohm resistors done, lets see if it last more than 24hrs, or even longer than a month! that will prob be the real proof i didnt fk up hehe....

                            but i feel pretty damn good that i got this far, and i could NOT have done it without the help here, Specially the help from selldoor but still im just as happy with all the other help i got as well, selldoor put alot of time into helping and i greatly appreciate it...

                            thank you all!!! <HUGZ> <HUGZ> <HUGZ>

                            YAY! 2d Surround!!! (course i still want my 27" samsung PLS's) hehehe
                            ...Patrick!

                            Comment


                              Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                              Originally posted by Ober
                              one thing ive noticed is with a Wedge tip, i can REALLY quickly solder them back on but it tends to burn the PCB a little at the point i touch the wedge down (probably cause of how much surface area is touchin the board)
                              Sounds like leftover flux from the solder and not burn marks. The PCB won't burn unless your iron is really REALLY hot and you leave it on there for like a minute or so.

                              Originally posted by Ober
                              then i solder a piece in an notice its REAAAAAAAALLLLLY close to another soldering spot, not sure if it was touching, looked like it was
                              In those cases, put some fresh solder on the affected joint and reheat it again. If there is still too much solder, it means:
                              a) you didn't heat the joint long enough
                              b) didn't put enough fresh solder
                              For these cases, I actually recommend to put just flux on the joint and reheat it well for a few seconds. The solder will reshape properly. You can also use flux to remove bridges that aren't mean to be. The reason for that is because flux cleans the solder on the solder joints, so the solder creating the bridge is pulled apart by the two cleaned joints.

                              But that all seems to be irrelevant now. Enjoy your fixed monitor!

                              Comment


                                Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                                heh, reguardless of relevance im extreemly happy to learn, i have 3 of these monitors and i tend to help others fix their computers ect, so i assume now ill have a new side job of tryin to repair things i can find repair information on.... this showed me how easy it CAN be, the hard part is finding the problem it seems, replacing the parts is really not all that bad...

                                Comment


                                  Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                                  Well done!! I couldnt have done it without you
                                  Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
                                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

                                  Comment


                                    Re: Samsung 245bw No Power No LED

                                    Hello again! Im Back! (just wish this website had a remember username system... last acct doesnt seem to have any of my valid emails attached to it, so no idea what was used)

                                    Another of my 3 Samsung 245BW's is about to die i think, its been flickering when theres any color on screen, when its dark its almost unnoticeable but when you get a white background or the title bars to software ect, all flicker dim-bright-dim-bright, really quick strobe like... wondering if that's fixable similar to my previous problem or if maybe the problem is somewhere i couldn't do anything about it.... i tried looking around the forums only to find people doing stuff with acronyms and such i didn't recognize and freezing/heating to test things, so i figure i should start from beginning and just ask if its a possible fix for a novice?

                                    Thank you much...
                                    ...Ober

                                    Comment

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