Pioneer amplifier A-205 Relay not clicking after a mistake i made

[CapLeaker]

shorting the leads gave me 0.4 ~ 0.5 ohms, so it looks like the resistor is off, the unit is about 24 years old but rarely used
i have already tested q321 outside the pcb and it is good (is not that the regulator u mean?)
if the the regulator is gone then the resistors cant be a fusible i think, however the resistors really look like normal ones, they dont have the extra while band, what kind of amps should it blow at, i can make a test on the semi good one and see when it will fail with my volt station? i also need to know how to determine them fusible or not when i buy them to make sure, i looked that up and could not find an answer, plz let me know

attached page 19 from the service manual i have, it is terrible pdf, can u share the one you are looking at? i could not find any other better version, it is the only available one
thanks guys so much

Just look at the schematic and trace it. The +15V regulator isn't on this board PA board. Just test the two voltages at the connector...
You looking at the wrong page 19 again. On the schematic the two resistors are We got the info from looking at it like this:

[GraphicMan]

Just look at the schematic and trace it. The +15V regulator isn't on this board PA board. Just test the two voltages at the connector...
You looking at the wrong page 19 again. On the schematic the two resistors are We got the info from looking at it like this:

thanks a lot , i found the page, is that the part number for the resistor f4r7j ?
i just got back from the market , the best i could find is 1/8watt 5.6 ohms, i barely found any 1/8 watt version, people also dont know much about fusible resistors, plz confirm the part number and if i can use the 5.6 ohms ones i got or not, ppl here say they use they tiny resistors at that low ohms as fuse anyways but i dont trust their knowledge
is it possible to make a test on one of them and see if they will burn or not at a specific mA ?

i already tested at the connector as u know, and there is only -15v, or did u mean to test after replacing the resistors?
can u plz point out to me where i can find the regulators u mentioned before?
thanks

[GraphicMan]

update:
i just made a test on the original good resistor , i tried to blow it and it did not blow even at past 0.5A (about 2.5v or so) so over 1 watt
i did the same with the new ones, same performance, nothing happened (they both get hot to the touch at these ratings)

so i just replaced the 2 resistors, the relay kicked in, the amp worked and produced normal sound, the loundness also worked with its led, i can feel its normal slight effect on sound, so far so good,

does that mean that the 15v regulator is good? i think it is the one with a small heatsink very close to the mains, plz confirm
thanks a lot for your help, u guys are brilliant and so good

[GraphicMan]

btw i did actually test the +15 on the connector and it is still zero with and without connect it to the button panel, always zero, is there any explanation for this?!

[redwire]

MEASURE the +/-15V rails and see if they are close, to tell if the regulator is still working. I think it's Q321/Q322 etc.
There is another +15V reg for the LEDs but you said they are working. If you keep getting zero then your multimeter ground might be wrong place?

[R_J]

If the amp is working the voltage is likely ok, which is "the" connector, or you are checking the wrong pin on "the" connector
Check connector AKM1037 on Power amp board or (AKP1044 on control ass'y) pin 7 =+15 pin 5 = -15
The service manual from the Pioneer A-103 is very similar and a bit better quality and easier to follow (but too large to upload here)
https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_a-1.../download.html

[GraphicMan]

again my bad, i was not connecting the prob properly, too afraid to short next to the gnd pin
the +15 is there very exact
thank you again for the much better pdf, that helps a lot (assuming it is the same schematics)
i really did notice way deeper BASS! after that repair, coz i also did disassemble the pot , it was so scratchy , i even needed to mill a small copper ring with a stick (0.1mm thick) and placed it on the inner carbon resistant ring, the outer was not worn out, so the inner of the left channel was causing the issues, no the loudness switch is much better, the direct which is so big switch is very scratchy , i need to disassemble and clean it, but these switches are really hard to assemble , it is very very complex and delicate, if it gone perhaps the whole amp wont work again, and wont even know what it does to try to replace it
you guys are really good at what u do, thank you very much for your patience and help, u r a life saver

[GraphicMan]

btw i am curious to know what class is that model? A or AB or something else?

[CapLeaker]

It’s a Class AB. No way that thing is Class A.

[GraphicMan]

It’s a Class AB. No way that thing is Class A.

i think u r right, but how did u know?
however i did notice that its wattage is not really affected by the signal nor the volume control, it is connected to a power meter, so i can see precisly how much it is drawing
i heard the class A is the best in quality but least in energy efficiency, are class A more expensive also?

[GraphicMan]

I have a little another issue now
for some unknown reason after the assembly i cant get any sound from the left output, i tried everything, swapped the input jacks, swapped the output speakers, but nothing comes from the left side
where can i start diagnoses for this? i just want to make sure it is not a serious problem, it also does not seem to be a scratchy knob or a bad switch because nothing at all comes from the left output
thanks

[GraphicMan]

i found very good continuity from these points to its related speaker out screw sockets from the back
hope this narrow things a bit

[GraphicMan]

I also tried to use other inputs, CD instead of line in, same issue

[GraphicMan]

guys i am stuck
is there anyway to narrow where is the issue?
can somebody give me some steps to start with? at least to make sure that no rare/expensive parts are the issue
waiting

[R_J]

Start by checking everything you took apart, maybe you damaged a plug or cable during re-assembly

[petehall347]

right down dirty testing . lick your finger tip and touch where the arrow is pointing . expect a loud hum from test speaker .

[GraphicMan]

Start by checking everything you took apart, maybe you damaged a plug or cable during re-assembly

i have also done that, there was indeed a cable with a single pin not very tight, but it turned out it is not the issue
i am sure the unit was great right before the assembly and i am usually very careful during it, really strange
how about you guide me with tracing to narrow it a little?
thanks

[GraphicMan]

right down dirty testing . lick your finger tip and touch where the arrow is pointing . expect a loud hum from test speaker .

i would like to do so but can u plz tell me where is that capture, perhaps the page number or a wider capture, i cant figure out where is that section
thanks

[petehall347]

i would like to do so but can u plz tell me where is that capture, perhaps the page number or a wider capture, i cant figure out where is that section
thanks

hope this helps

[GraphicMan]

hope this helps

yup i actually found it before i read ur post, however i wanted to make sure where it is on the board
attached a screen from the board, where should i short with my wet finger tip?
thanks a lot